cncfab hpop lines clarify - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 07-09-2018, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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cncfab hpop lines clarify

I got cncfabs hpop lines because mine are ever so slightly leaking and im sprucing up the truck to keep her running right. Just wanted to clarify and ask couple questions etc. Talked with a buddy who installed them so I feel comfortable but...

1. Sounds like I unthread and remove all hpop line end fitting and lines (probably easier to leave the ends connected to the hose and then on the hpop side just remove the ball and spring behind the hpop side end fitting and just thread in his lines?

2. Everything is always super crowded in the powerstroke engine bays so from experience what is helpful to remove and what must be removed for removal of old ones and installation of his?

*I can already tell its gonna be a few hours but hearing from those who have installed them before always helps. Also worst case scenario ive heard of threads getting boogered because ford put sealant on the hpop side end fitting. should I use the same Loctite 680 or something on coreys hpop side end fitting?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 17 Old 07-09-2018, 09:48 AM
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post #3 of 17 Old 07-09-2018, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinOOO9 View Post
I got cncfabs hpop lines because mine are ever so slightly leaking and im sprucing up the truck to keep her running right. Just wanted to clarify and ask couple questions etc. Talked with a buddy who installed them so I feel comfortable but...

1. Sounds like I unthread and remove all hpop line end fitting and lines (probably easier to leave the ends connected to the hose and then on the hpop side just remove the ball and spring behind the hpop side end fitting and just thread in his lines?

2. Everything is always super crowded in the powerstroke engine bays so from experience what is helpful to remove and what must be removed for removal of old ones and installation of his?

*I can already tell its gonna be a few hours but hearing from those who have installed them before always helps. Also worst case scenario ive heard of threads getting boogered because ford put sealant on the hpop side end fitting. should I use the same Loctite 680 or something on coreys hpop side end fitting?

Thanks!
1. Yes, un-thread and remove the spring check. There is no ball, its a disc attached to the bottom of the spring.

2. Unhook most of the harness and lay it out of the way. Sometimes I use a bungee cord to help hold the main harness out of the way if it dont want to cooperate. I "shorty" wrench or crow's foot is VERY helpful, but not necessary. Although it is not necessary to use either 680 or 620 loctite retaining compound (it is cheap insurance) on the pump. You dont use any sealant on any of the other threads.

You MIGHT also have to undo the supply and return fuel lines at the bowl to gain clearance of the 90* fitting.

Side note:

All of our new (reman) stage 1 pumps come with steel thread inserts, so the loctite is not needed. Our stage 2's we still recommend it, but the threads wont be boogered up because I use brand new housings.
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post #4 of 17 Old 07-09-2018, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, I appreciate it.
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post #5 of 17 Old 07-09-2018, 04:21 PM
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This might help, this guy is a pro.

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post #6 of 17 Old 07-10-2018, 10:41 AM
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I installed CNCFAB HPOP lines earlier this year and everything went together with ease.

Suck the hpop oil down. Clean the threads really well removing any old 680. Install new fittings with new 680 and dont torque the hell out of them. The oring does the sealing.

It is easiest as Corey said if the fuel lines are out of the way along with the harness out of the way. (Now is a good time to install his 4 way fuel line kits as well)

Once the pump fittings are installed get the head fittings installed loose. Install the hose and let them follow their natural path then tighten the head fittings.

Look into Wrench flats for how much to tighten the lines.
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post #7 of 17 Old 07-10-2018, 02:03 PM
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cncfab hpop lines clarify



Chuck these.

New fittings 25 ft/lbs to the pump.

Heads 15-17 ft/lbs

Don’t think about it but REMOVE the in/return on the fuel bowl. I remember you said you did a reseal so the seals on them are good to reinstall.

The 90 angles? are installed on the heads first, then the hoses are fitted onto the angles if that make sense. Once everything is together, a set of crows foot is good for any tightening




Edit: I didn’t use any thread locker. As one said, the o-ring does the sealing. Torque it correctly and it will not come apart. Of the 6 sets (crude diesel hpop lines) I did, I didn’t see any thread locker so i don’t know. Be safe and do it if you can get all the dang oil out.
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post #8 of 17 Old 07-10-2018, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that information too. looking forward to replacing them mine are not bad, but definitely not 100% sealed when I looked at them during the fuel bowl R & R. i'll keep you guys updated and I plan on printing the picture.

I will check on the crows feet too because I will be using my Dads shop his is nice and climate controlled vs me doing it in the driveway like usual lol.

-99 F250, 4X4, 6.0 trans cooler, 08 mirrors, 05 grill, AIS Intake, lvl kit, JW Vbody, cncfab hpop lines, WW2.

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post #9 of 17 Old 07-11-2018, 04:35 AM
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[QUOTE=DieselDC;16119059]

Chuck these.

New fittings 25 ft/lbs to the pump.

Heads 15-17 ft/lbs Correction: Heads are 21-23 and its 15-17 for the hose ends (nuts) onto the fittings.

Don’t think about it but REMOVE the in/return on the fuel bowl. I remember you said you did a reseal so the seals on them are good to reinstall.

The 90 angles? are installed on the heads first, then the hoses are fitted onto the angles if that make sense. Once everything is together, a set of crows foot is good for any tightening Leave the jam nuts loose though until the hoses are in the right spot and not twisting on you. Once the hoses are in a relaxed state with the hose ends tight, then tighten down the jam nuts.


Edit: I didn’t use any thread locker. As one said, the o-ring does the sealing. Torque it correctly and it will not come apart. Of the 6 sets (crude diesel hpop lines) I did, I didn’t see any thread locker so i don’t know. Be safe and do it if you can get all the dang oil out. That's because Mr. Crude doesn't know any better. He's a mechanic, not a hydraulics guy.

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post #10 of 17 Old 07-11-2018, 06:00 AM
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cncfab hpop lines clarify

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDC View Post

New fittings 25 ft/lbs to the pump.

Heads 15-17 ft/lbs Correction: Heads are 21-23 and its 15-17 for the hose ends (nuts) onto the fittings.

Leave the jam nuts loose though until the hoses are in the right spot and not twisting on you. Once the hoses are in a relaxed state with the hose ends tight, then tighten down the jam nuts. [/COLOR]


Edit: I didn’t use any thread locker. As one said, the o-ring does the sealing. Torque it correctly and it will not come apart. Of the 6 sets (crude diesel hpop lines) I did, I didn’t see any thread locker so i don’t know. Be safe and do it if you can get all the dang oil out. That's because Mr. Crude doesn't know any better. He's a mechanic, not a hydraulics guy.

25 / 15-17 for me. Works every single time

The jam nut deal - didn’t like that. I like to screw the ends in position so they don’t move, then the hoses. The hoses will move the jam nut on me. Maybe it’s the 15-17 haha.

I said I don’t use thread locker. He is a hydraulics guy and makes quality hoses.



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Last edited by DieselDC; 07-11-2018 at 07:01 AM.
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