Oil pan drain valve question - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #11 of 28 Old 11-13-2017, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by zsargent View Post
While it's draining, replace your oil filter, check other things and VOILA! You be done.
Regarding the filter, it looks like a mess to remove, as most filters are. I saw one guy puncture the filter to let the oil drain out, thus preventing the nastiness when unscrewing the filter. That looks like a good idea. Anyone try that?
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post #12 of 28 Old 11-13-2017, 12:00 PM
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Regarding the filter, it looks like a mess to remove, as most filters are. I saw one guy puncture the filter to let the oil drain out, thus preventing the nastiness when unscrewing the filter. That looks like a good idea. Anyone try that?


I do that each oil change. Just have a sharp pick at hand and whatever you do, donít hammer your finger lol.


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post #13 of 28 Old 11-13-2017, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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the Fumoto F111 on the ebays says it fits a 2001 F350 but not the F250. Really? Is there a difference in the oil pan on the two models?
Just answered my own question. The Fumoto website says F111 is the right one for the 2001 F250.

I'm kind of a cheap chiseler, and $26 for a convenient valve is kind of pricey, but I'm also very averse to making monumental messes and having used motor oil running down to my armpit, so maybe clean-freak trumps tight wad.
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post #14 of 28 Old 11-13-2017, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by KBS View Post
Hey, no judgment here. What a dude does with his nipple is his own business, I always say.

But, back to the topic, the Fumoto F111 on the ebays says it fits a 2001 F350 but not the F250. Really? Is there a difference in the oil pan on the two models?
I just looked at my fumoto invoice and Im running the F111N on my 1999 f250 7.3l 4x4 auto. there is no difference in oil pans from 1999-2003 4x4 7.3l im not sure about 2wd though etc.

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post #15 of 28 Old 11-13-2017, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I ordered one from the Amazons today. I'm 1,000 miles from the next oil change, but now I'll have it on hand when the time comes.
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post #16 of 28 Old 11-16-2017, 06:10 PM
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However much it was (~$20 when I bought mine some years ago), it's an added peace of mind to know that you'll never cross-thread or potentially strip out your oil pan threads with each oil change. Convenient, clean, effective. Set it, forget it, move on with more important things than dribbled oil.
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post #17 of 28 Old 11-16-2017, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by AgTires4295 View Post
However much it was (~$20 when I bought mine some years ago), it's an added peace of mind to know that you'll never cross-thread or potentially strip out your oil pan threads with each oil change. Convenient, clean, effective. Set it, forget it, move on with more important things than dribbled oil.


If you can cross thread your oil pan bolt smh I donít know else to say (not saying you but in general).

I didnít cross thread mine - a tree or some chit hit mine (I didnít run into it Haha). It cost 1500 for a new oil pan so I guess I can say I fall in the same boat as those dumb*** that can cross thread the oil pAn haha. Itís funny thinking about it and like a true dumb***, I have another on on my truck after the bill haha.


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post #18 of 28 Old 11-16-2017, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by AgTires4295 View Post
However much it was (~$20 when I bought mine some years ago), it's an added peace of mind to know that you'll never cross-thread or potentially strip out your oil pan threads with each oil change. Convenient, clean, effective. Set it, forget it, move on with more important things than dribbled oil.
ex zach ly

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post #19 of 28 Old 06-20-2018, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Well, folks, here's an update. This valve is a piece of $#!+. I woke up to an oil slick in my driveway this morning. The spring valve began to leak, and the only thing that kept it from draining my oil pan was the silly little plastic cap that I decided to leave on the drain valve. As it was, oil was dripping out, and when I removed the cap, it flowed out. I quickly replaced the cap and found my OEM plug. I removed the drain valve, plugged the pan with my finger, and put the OEM plug back in. I lost about a quart of oil, much of it down my arm.

Fortunately, this occurred in my driveway. I had just returned from a 1,000 mile trip in the southern Utah desert. If it had started leaking out there, I would not have known it, and my engine would have been destroyed. For whatever convenience you think you might gain from the drain valve, don't do it. It's a disaster waiting to happen.
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post #20 of 28 Old 06-20-2018, 09:08 AM
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KBS

Are you sure you didn't leave it open by accident? As in touch the lever after you put the cap on? That's the FIRST time I hear of a failure on those. Mine's been on two trucks (transferred it), subjected to dozen of thousands of miles in all kinds of harsh weather (all the way down to -44F), hunting, fishing, towing, you name it.
Not one drop of oil has leaked out. Not one.

I think your experience is an anomaly, not the norm for sure.

Zach

07 F250 KR FX4 CCSB, Dark Copper Metallic/AZ Beige, Rotella T6
6000K HIDs, Zoodad, Fog mod/High Idle, Tinted, Rancho 9000s, Banks CAI,
Blue Spring, NUC/Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter
Z36 slotted/drilled rotors, Carbon Ceramic brake pads,
Warren 175/stock, Atlas 40, Fleetrite ELC, ScangaugeII

168,084 miles....
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