02 F250 7.3/6spd No speedo/odo not tracking mileage - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 08-29-2017, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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02 F250 7.3/6spd No speedo/odo not tracking mileage

Speedo is stuck at zero, odometer isn't tracking movement, only displays last known mileage. No other faulty indications, codes, or red flags. This signal comes from the sensor on the rear diff correct?
Any way to test the sensor? I can shoot the wiring I suppose if I can pull a schematic. I'd feel better if I could pinpoint the problem so I don't have to shotgun a new cluster or send it off for testing/rework.


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post #2 of 19 Old 08-29-2017, 02:29 PM
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Try replacing the speed sensor on the rear axle.

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post #3 of 19 Old 08-30-2017, 12:37 PM
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IF it is the rear axle sensor, there should also be an ABS light, no cruise control, P0500 in the ECM, and if an automatic a flashing Overdrive light. If only the speedo and odometer are not functioning, I would lean towards the cluster. You can check the sensor for resistance. When mine failed, it was reading meghoms. The new one was about 2,000 Ohms.
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post #4 of 19 Old 08-30-2017, 11:23 PM
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I tend to agree with dave's assessment even though 2k ohms is awfully high for a sensor but if it's within specs then it's fine. You can jumper the connector and bypass the sensor to see if it changes anything but if it's only the speedo and mileage that crapped out Id think they have a shared power wire. I'd look for a broken wire or a corroded one but bypass the sensor first before wire chasing


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post #5 of 19 Old 08-31-2017, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveP. View Post
IF it is the rear axle sensor, there should also be an ABS light, no cruise control, P0500 in the ECM, and if an automatic a flashing Overdrive light. If only the speedo and odometer are not functioning, I would lean towards the cluster. You can check the sensor for resistance. When mine failed, it was reading meghoms. The new one was about 2,000 Ohms.
No ABS light, Cruise inop, haven't tried pulling codes but don't have any other lights indicating a failure. I'll have to grab my code reader out of my other truck and see. Truck seems to just think it's not moving. It is a 6spd so I don't have the flashing OD light.

Not sure what bypassing the sensor is going to do since the sensor is what gives the signal... not knocking what you are saying but...

Does anybody have the FSM schematic via PDF?

I'll pull and ohm out the sensor for kicks, try to pull codes, and see what I get.
****EDIT: Just pulled and ohmed out the sensor, shows 1.95Kohms so I can rule that out.****

Still trying to figure out what works and what doesn't.

So far I've found:
-Fuel gauge on the fritz, reads intermittently: sometimes good, some times buried and turns on the fuel light.
-4x4 light inop, it's locking in fine.


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post #6 of 19 Old 08-31-2017, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2MANYPROJ3CTS View Post
No ABS light, Cruise inop, haven't tried pulling codes but don't have any other lights indicating a failure. I'll have to grab my code reader out of my other truck and see. Truck seems to just think it's not moving. It is a 6spd so I don't have the flashing OD light.



Not sure what bypassing the sensor is going to do since the sensor is what gives the signal... not knocking what you are saying but...



Does anybody have the FSM schematic via PDF?



I'll pull and ohm out the sensor for kicks, try to pull codes, and see what I get.

****EDIT: Just pulled and ohmed out the sensor, shows 1.95Kohms so I can rule that out.****



Still trying to figure out what works and what doesn't.



So far I've found:

-Fuel gauge on the fritz, reads intermittently: sometimes good, some times buried and turns on the fuel light.

-4x4 light inop, it's locking in fine.


There's a shorted wire somewhere. Something is chaffing severely. Find where all the systems wiring is routed together and you should find some exposed wiring. If your fuel qty gets worse on bumpy roads it's a short.


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post #7 of 19 Old 08-31-2017, 09:40 PM
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even though 2k ohms is awfully high for a sensor
I've certainly checked a few thousand sensors of many different types over the years. 2K for an inductive pickup like the rear axle sensor or a wheel speed sensor is typical. How many "sensors" have YOU actually checked?

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Just pulled and ohmed out the sensor, shows 1.95Kohms
Hmmm. I said 2,000 ohms, and the guy found that his is 1950 Ohms. I have a better memory than I thought. Or maybe I just know what I'm talking about, having been doing this stuff for over 50 years.

If the OP does NOT have Trouble Code P0500 in the ECM/PCM, the rear axle sensor is working, and wiring is intact at least to the ABS module (which conditions the raw sensor signal) and then to the PCM. The speed signal wire into the cluster is gry/blk. It can be checked for A.C. voltage with the rear wheels turning to see if the signal is getting to the cluster. But I suspect you have cluster issues. You aren't the first guy with a 2001 with these problems. My observations on here lead me to suspect the cluster.

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There's a shorted wire somewhere. Something is chaffing severely. Find where all the systems wiring is routed together and you should find some exposed wiring. If your fuel qty gets worse on bumpy roads it's a short.
Bunch of nonsense.

Last edited by DaveP.; 08-31-2017 at 09:59 PM.
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post #8 of 19 Old 09-01-2017, 04:55 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DaveP. View Post
I've certainly checked a few thousand sensors of many different types over the years. 2K for an inductive pickup like the rear axle sensor or a wheel speed sensor is typical. How many "sensors" have YOU actually checked?



Hmmm. I said 2,000 ohms, and the guy found that his is 1950 Ohms. I have a better memory than I thought. Or maybe I just know what I'm talking about, having been doing this stuff for over 50 years.

If the OP does NOT have Trouble Code P0500 in the ECM/PCM, the rear axle sensor is working, and wiring is intact at least to the ABS module (which conditions the raw sensor signal) and then to the PCM. The speed signal wire into the cluster is gry/blk. It can be checked for A.C. voltage with the rear wheels turning to see if the signal is getting to the cluster. But I suspect you have cluster issues. You aren't the first guy with a 2001 with these problems. My observations on here lead me to suspect the cluster.



Bunch of nonsense.
Thanks DaveP, that's good info. I agree with you. Just wanted to ensure a couple of things before I go and shotgun an instrument cluster when I'm footing the bill lol!

deezntuz- The fuel issue is separate. I'm certain it's in the tank. As far as the 4x4 light, it's probably just that; a light.


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post #9 of 19 Old 09-01-2017, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveP. View Post
I've certainly checked a few thousand sensors of many different types over the years. 2K for an inductive pickup like the rear axle sensor or a wheel speed sensor is typical. How many "sensors" have YOU actually checked?







Hmmm. I said 2,000 ohms, and the guy found that his is 1950 Ohms. I have a better memory than I thought. Or maybe I just know what I'm talking about, having been doing this stuff for over 50 years.



If the OP does NOT have Trouble Code P0500 in the ECM/PCM, the rear axle sensor is working, and wiring is intact at least to the ABS module (which conditions the raw sensor signal) and then to the PCM. The speed signal wire into the cluster is gry/blk. It can be checked for A.C. voltage with the rear wheels turning to see if the signal is getting to the cluster. But I suspect you have cluster issues. You aren't the first guy with a 2001 with these problems. My observations on here lead me to suspect the cluster.







Bunch of nonsense.


Are you an electrician or auto mechanic. A sensor is the same as a switch it just activates and gives a ground at a specified condition. It could be temperature, pressure or a wide variety of other things. Whatever its threshold for failure (i.e.- It's resistance) allows it to give the power signal that sits at the sensor a ground which is all power ever looks for. Just as with combustion you need 3 things for a circuit. You obviously know the 3 combustion needs with all your experience but tell me what an electrical circuit requires to function and I'm only talking basics. If you understand what source,load and ground is its simple. If it's only a sensor than when it reaches its operation limit which is agreed to be around 2k then it completes the circuit resulting in a light. A wire that has exposed center conductor before the sensor which I agree is good will cause a failure light since it doesn't need the sensor for a ground. I only have 13 years as an aircraft electrician but wiring and sensors all operate on the same principle. Experience is only applicable if you know the P.O.O's. We're seat belts even installed mandatorily 50 years ago? Nonsense is you telling someone to put a vehicle in the air and check for voltage with the wheels turning. Your path of troubleshooting tells me you understand basic electrical operation only enough to read a dmm. If it has a light it has power which is why an electrician would start by ohming out the wires just be sure to pull the associated fuse or it will read to ground through the fuse. It's shorted to ground between the source and load and bypassing the sensor. Snarky comments annoy me thus the extensive explanation of electrical theory. Oh and I've likely troubleshot more types of sensors than you could even identify as a sensor sir. Aircraft are a bit more complicated than vehicles.


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post #10 of 19 Old 09-01-2017, 07:16 PM
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#1, you're full of crap regarding the rear diff sensor. You don't have a clue as to how it functions or how it sends the speed signal. There is NO voltage on either wire if checked to ground. The sensor is a permanent magnet with a coil wrapped around it. As the differential tone wheel passes by the sensor an Alternating Current voltage is produced in the windings of the sensor. This signal is processed by the ABS module.

#2, you've been a member here 2 weeks with 45 posts, most of them useless as evidenced by a ZERO "thanks" count. Stop attempting to impress peeps that know more than you do with what you DON'T know. You act like a 12 year old troll attempting to post drivel in any thread you can think of something to write, regardless of accuracy or helpfulness. I saw in a post you're an "aviation electrician". My gawd, I hope you work on GA stuff because I wouldn't want to fly on any ATP or 141 equipment you've worked on. My guess is you work for a municipal or LEO flight department. Hiring standards are pretty low for those posts, and they can't fire anyone for incompetence.

#3, your on my ignore list. Your junk isn't worth the distraction of seeing it. Good luck here.
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