Best oil for 7.3L? - Page 6 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #51 of 84 Old 04-25-2018, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Hdrodder170 View Post
Have had diesels in past an old early Isuzu and a Cummins as well, used Rotella always but that was old school tech, my question is whats best now. 315K plus Banks and Evolution CST2 added on so do these make a difference? Willing to step up to Syn just for that reason. Recently purchased this truck from a dealer so I cannot ask the former owner on what he used.
Like what was said above, there is no "best" but there are rebates right now on popular synthetics, T6, Delo synthetic LE, and Mobil 1 The Delo LE I just bought is still a CJ and the T6 is still CJ as well, and Mobil 1 is now CK.
The Delo has a $20 rebate on 3 gals but go to their website for participating retailers
T6 has $7 a gallon up to 4
Mobil1 has $10 a gallon up to 10

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post #52 of 84 Old 04-25-2018, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dmd View Post
It is very rare to find any truck that can go over 5-6k before the oil needs changing using test results.
You need to see mine, then.

I have 6 consecutive Blackstone reports, one for each oil change over the past 5 years and 65K miles. Based on these, I have settled on 12,500 mile or 12 month change intervals. Blackstone says I can go further, which I agree I can, but the engine runs smoother after a change, so I'm Ok with the current interval.

TBN is the "life" indicator. Ie, the oils ability to neutralize acids so corrosion doesn't attack internal metals. New = 8.0-10.0, I'm at 4.5-5.0, and must be >1.0. So I'm not even close.
Soluble is an indicator of filtration efficiency. Leave the filter on too long, it gets saturated, and stops filtering. 5.0 is the max. I'm always at <2.0. Not even close.
There are two viscosity checks. These indicate how "sheared" or diluted the oil is. My samples always test close to as-new oil. So not even close.

I use testing. I know how to read it. And I've been doing it long enough, enough times, that I'm confident with my change strategy, and that I'm NOT doing damage from things that people make up like "the HPOP shears the oil". (Maybe it does, but I don't see it in samples from my engine). I know most peeps here won't agree with me. It's my truck, my money, and my time to change it.

If you always follow the lead dog, the scenery never changes. If you go off on your own, and know what you're doing, the view is unobstructed.
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post #53 of 84 Old 04-25-2018, 01:16 PM
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Dave, what are you using?

I know in the past Injector builders would steer people away from a certain brand.

That brand always foamed more and seemed to shear more.

Iíve talked to several tuners about the same oil. After a few thousand miles certain oils lead to erratic Icp at idle due to foam
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post #54 of 84 Old 04-25-2018, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveP. View Post
You need to see mine, then.

I have 6 consecutive Blackstone reports, one for each oil change over the past 5 years and 65K miles. Based on these, I have settled on 12,500 mile or 12 month change intervals. Blackstone says I can go further, which I agree I can, but the engine runs smoother after a change, so I'm Ok with the current interval.

TBN is the "life" indicator. Ie, the oils ability to neutralize acids so corrosion doesn't attack internal metals. New = 8.0-10.0, I'm at 4.5-5.0, and must be >1.0. So I'm not even close.
Soluble is an indicator of filtration efficiency. Leave the filter on too long, it gets saturated, and stops filtering. 5.0 is the max. I'm always at <2.0. Not even close.
There are two viscosity checks. These indicate how "sheared" or diluted the oil is. My samples always test close to as-new oil. So not even close.

I use testing. I know how to read it. And I've been doing it long enough, enough times, that I'm confident with my change strategy, and that I'm NOT doing damage from things that people make up like "the HPOP shears the oil". (Maybe it does, but I don't see it in samples from my engine). I know most peeps here won't agree with me. It's my truck, my money, and my time to change it.

If you always follow the lead dog, the scenery never changes. If you go off on your own, and know what you're doing, the view is unobstructed.
DaveP.....I HAVE A QUESTION.....

I HAVE A TRUCK THAT IS NEW TO ME.....(2001 7.3 280,000 MILES).....I HAVE HAD THE TRUCK FOR ABOUT TWO YEARS.....IT HAS BEEN SITTING.....WAITING TO GET THE BODY WORK DONE.....IT IS ALMOST READY FOR THE ROAD.....

SO.....IN YOUR OPINION.....SHOULD I CHANGE MY OIL AND WAIT A FEW MONTHS.....FEW THOUSAND MILES AND HAVE MY OIL TESTED.....OR SHOULD I GO AHEAD AND TEST THE CURRENT OIL IN THE TRUCK BEFORE I CHANGE THE OIL?.....
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post #55 of 84 Old 04-25-2018, 07:14 PM
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To each his own. I don't doubt Dave's results but 5k oil intervals & 10k fuel filters work for me.
@GETFURIOUS if your truck has been sitting for awhile, I'd wait till it's ready for the road and then change the oil, and at that mileage if you don't know the maint history I'd do the diffs, trans and transfer case too. Probably a good time to flush and change the coolant since it one of the most overlooked maint item, at least test it. IMO
Oh yeah if the brake fluid is dark I'd flush the brakes and hydro boost, you're pushing 300k, your truck'll thank you.

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post #56 of 84 Old 04-25-2018, 08:21 PM
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I use Delo 400 15/40 LE. The CJ formula. I stockpiled 24 Gallons while it was still available from local sources. When I run out, I'll evaluate the CK reports to get a feel for change interval on that oil. I feel the formulations make a difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GETFURIOUS View Post
2001 7.3 280,000 MILES).....I HAVE HAD THE TRUCK FOR ABOUT TWO YEARS.....IT IS ALMOST READY FOR THE ROAD.....

SO.....IN YOUR OPINION.....SHOULD I CHANGE MY OIL AND WAIT A FEW MONTHS.....FEW THOUSAND MILES AND HAVE MY OIL TESTED.....OR SHOULD I GO AHEAD AND TEST THE CURRENT OIL IN THE TRUCK BEFORE I CHANGE THE OIL?.....
The first thing to understand about Universal Oil Analyses is that you are looking for TRENDS. A single sample will show a serious problem in the trace metals, but will not tell you anything about how your engine is wearing normally, or how "hard" it is on oil the way you use your truck, that you can use to determine change interval. Use the same lab every time, use the same "unit identifier" for each sample and the report will show previous tests as well as the current one. Makes comparison, trends, and "problems" easy to spot.

I would sample the oil that is in it now. Try to drive it regularly for a few hundred miles, and sample the oil when it is warm, about half-way through the drain. Use your oil of choice, and sample it again at 5,000 miles. IF you are interested in extended drain intervals (more than 7,500 miles) I would suggest doing it in steps. Ie, 5,000 then 7,500, then 10,000 etc. This is exactly what I did to get to the 12.5 where I am now. I did it in 2.5k steps. ALWAYS use the same type / viscosity of oil, and ALWAYS pay the extra $10 for a TBN analysis. Also keep track of how much oil you add between changes, as the new oil affects the TBN and viscosity readings because the fresh oil contains fresh additives. TBN and viscosity are the primary indicators regarding "life" and suitable change intervals.

One last comment: Because of the HPOP reservoir, enough oil remains in the engine that it will affect results in the future sample, IF the viscosity or base stock oil is changed. I saw this when I went from 10/30 to the 15/40. Because the viscosity test is based on the viscosity of NEW oil, my numbers were too low for 15/40 on the first change after the switch. Subsequent tests were more consistent. If you want more accurate results on the next change, and you don't know what oil or viscosity is in it now so you can use the same, change the HPOP oil too. I would only bother to change the HPOP oil if you are really anal, or really want consistent results right off the bat. I didn't, and I don't feel it makes a ton of difference over time. But I bring it up because it does affect the first sample after a switch in oil type or viscosity.

Sorry for the TLDR. Perhaps you learned something.

Last edited by DaveP.; 04-25-2018 at 08:41 PM.
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post #57 of 84 Old 04-26-2018, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by SparkyF250 View Post
To each his own. I don't doubt Dave's results but 5k oil intervals & 10k fuel filters work for me.
@GETFURIOUS if your truck has been sitting for awhile, I'd wait till it's ready for the road and then change the oil, and at that mileage if you don't know the maint history I'd do the diffs, trans and transfer case too. Probably a good time to flush and change the coolant since it one of the most overlooked maint item, at least test it. IMO
Oh yeah if the brake fluid is dark I'd flush the brakes and hydro boost, you're pushing 300k, your truck'll thank you.
THANKS FOR THE ADVICE.....FORTUNATELY I DO HAVE ALMOST ALL THE SERVICE RECORDS.....FROM THE DAY IT FIRST LEFT THE DEALER'S LOT.....EVEN THE COMPLETE TRANSMISSION REBUILD RECEIPT WITH THE PARTS LISTED ON IT.....

I DO PLAN TO CHANGE ALL THE FLUIDS OVER THE NEXT FEW MONTHS.....MY TRUCK SHOULD BE ON THE ROAD IN ABOUT 10 DAYS.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveP. View Post
I use Delo 400 15/40 LE. The CJ formula. I stockpiled 24 Gallons while it was still available from local sources. When I run out, I'll evaluate the CK reports to get a feel for change interval on that oil. I feel the formulations make a difference.

The first thing to understand about Universal Oil Analyses is that you are looking for TRENDS. A single sample will show a serious problem in the trace metals, but will not tell you anything about how your engine is wearing normally, or how "hard" it is on oil the way you use your truck, that you can use to determine change interval. Use the same lab every time, use the same "unit identifier" for each sample and the report will show previous tests as well as the current one. Makes comparison, trends, and "problems" easy to spot.

I would sample the oil that is in it now. Try to drive it regularly for a few hundred miles, and sample the oil when it is warm, about half-way through the drain. Use your oil of choice, and sample it again at 5,000 miles. IF you are interested in extended drain intervals (more than 7,500 miles) I would suggest doing it in steps. Ie, 5,000 then 7,500, then 10,000 etc. This is exactly what I did to get to the 12.5 where I am now. I did it in 2.5k steps. ALWAYS use the same type / viscosity of oil, and ALWAYS pay the extra $10 for a TBN analysis. Also keep track of how much oil you add between changes, as the new oil affects the TBN and viscosity readings because the fresh oil contains fresh additives. TBN and viscosity are the primary indicators regarding "life" and suitable change intervals.

One last comment: Because of the HPOP reservoir, enough oil remains in the engine that it will affect results in the future sample, IF the viscosity or base stock oil is changed. I saw this when I went from 10/30 to the 15/40. Because the viscosity test is based on the viscosity of NEW oil, my numbers were too low for 15/40 on the first change after the switch. Subsequent tests were more consistent. If you want more accurate results on the next change, and you don't know what oil or viscosity is in it now so you can use the same, change the HPOP oil too. I would only bother to change the HPOP oil if you are really anal, or really want consistent results right off the bat. I didn't, and I don't feel it makes a ton of difference over time. But I bring it up because it does affect the first sample after a switch in oil type or viscosity.

Sorry for the TLDR. Perhaps you learned something.
THANK YOU.....

AND I DID LEARN A LOT FROM YOUR POST.....

GOTTA LOVE THIS SITE.....AND THE PEOPLE ON IT.....
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post #58 of 84 Old 04-26-2018, 06:47 AM
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Man oh man is this an informative thread! I eat this chit up!

I'm tempted to do more in depth oil analysis etc so I can learn more and be more fun at parties lol jk.

I just did my first change with T4, a Rotella Filter, and Archoil. I am still leaking profusely and have the remainder of a 5 gallon bucket to keep adding, but plan to change it out after only a few thousand anyway. I know absolutely nothing about the truck's history but it had a fram filter on it... which tells me the owner didn't care and it may have been running tractor oil.

My plan is to run a 2k t4 change with archoil, then a 4k t4 change with archoil. After that I'd like to hopefully have all the leaks buttoned up and send samples in to blackstone for the second change as I feel that will be more accurate than my quart added every 200 miles change.

After this I plan to switch to t6 and attempt longevity changes. I like the plan detailed above and I think I'll do a similar 5k, 7.5k etc. I'm unsure if I'll keep running the archoil additive or just switch to 8oz per. (it's expensive!)

PSA: Rotella T6 at Menards is on sale for $19.99/ gallon PLUS $7 rebate thru menards bringing it to $12.99/gallon. I plan to grab four this week. Only helpful if you live near menards and don't mind their rebate system though
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post #59 of 84 Old 04-26-2018, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Kmfinley93 View Post
I'm tempted to do more in depth oil analysis etc so I can learn more and be more fun at parties lol jk.

My plan is to run a 2k t4 change with archoil, then a 4k t4 change with archoil. After that ...... send samples in to blackstone for the second change as I feel that will be more accurate than my quart added every 200 miles change.
Everyone likes to be fun at parties.

When you send a sample to Blackstone, be sure to tell them about the Archoil in your comments. There are about 10 "elements" in oil that are checked. Most of these are in the oil itself, and don't mean anything as far as how the engine is wearing. Titanium, Boron, Silver, Molydimyum, and of course Zinc and Phosphorus which are a concern to guys running old Muscle Car era gas engines. The Archoil may skew some of these numbers (and you won't know which ones Archoil affects), and if you don't use it every change, you may see inconsistencies that may be difficult to understand. Another strategy is to send in a sample of the same oil as in the sample, but NEW. Take it from the same oil you put in the truck, and keep it until you send in the used sample. Get a baseline of what the NEW oil contains. Then comparing your samples to new oil will really yield results. You'll have a lot to talk about at parties.
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post #60 of 84 Old 04-26-2018, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kmfinley93 View Post
Man oh man is this an informative thread! I eat this chit up!

I'm tempted to do more in depth oil analysis etc so I can learn more and be more fun at parties lol jk.

I just did my first change with T4, a Rotella Filter, and Archoil. I am still leaking profusely and have the remainder of a 5 gallon bucket to keep adding, but plan to change it out after only a few thousand anyway. I know absolutely nothing about the truck's history but it had a fram filter on it... which tells me the owner didn't care and it may have been running tractor oil.

My plan is to run a 2k t4 change with archoil, then a 4k t4 change with archoil. After that I'd like to hopefully have all the leaks buttoned up and send samples in to blackstone for the second change as I feel that will be more accurate than my quart added every 200 miles change.

After this I plan to switch to t6 and attempt longevity changes. I like the plan detailed above and I think I'll do a similar 5k, 7.5k etc. I'm unsure if I'll keep running the archoil additive or just switch to 8oz per. (it's expensive!)

PSA: Rotella T6 at Menards is on sale for $19.99/ gallon PLUS $7 rebate thru menards bringing it to $12.99/gallon. I plan to grab four this week. Only helpful if you live near menards and don't mind their rebate system though
T4 is tractor oil!
Actually in my new tractor I'm running T5, my older ones get Traveller from TSC or T4.
I also run the Traveller in my IDI and have for years with no problems. An old oil test I read rated the wear rating for different oils and the All Fleet oils actually scored very good. There are guys on here running it in their 7.3 psds. Also if you're leaking oil that bad I'm not sure I'd be dumping Archoil on the ground unless you're having stiction issues.

Sitting good on Traveller at the moment

Sparky
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2005 F250 CCSB KR 4x4 6.0 4" Flo-Pro,
Fox 2.0s, Toyo ATs, CTS2 Pro, Blue Spring, BPD 7.3 Fan Clutch, IPR Coolant Filter

2000 F350 SCLB Dually 4x4, 7.3 6 Speed Hydra, CTS2, S&B Air, 4'' SS Diamond Eye

2005 Explorer XLT 4x4 Mountaineer,
Toyo ATs, Wife's grocery getter

1993 F150 4x4, 302 5 speed, winter truck


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