BOY!!! That's a LOT of codes for TorqueApp to have missed!!!!
But the one that stands out to me is -> Battery Voltage Too Low. This in itself could cause most the rest.
It is alot. That shocked me too.
The batteries/cables/terminal clamps was the second place I started checking after first checking fuses and running a scan with TP. I learned real quick my first 2 weeks of being a diesel mechanic, I was shoulder-deep in a Kenworth 660's dash for two hours and my supervisor walked over, handed me a brand new 30A fuse and said "Here, try this. Then you can put it back together, park it out back, and you're welcome.
After that I always start with the easiest and simplest things first. I replaced both cables and clamps on the driver's side batt about 6 mons ago. and I've been having some frequent and random "turnover/no-starts" lately so I rechecked them again and found that the pos. cable on driver's side batt. had a gap between the clamp and the beginning of the rubber insulation where I stripped it before causing it to ground out. So I took the clamps completely off, bought new and better ones, found some corrosion on the first 1/2" or so of the exposed pos.cable wire. So I cut it back some til it was shiny copper again, re-stripped it, put the clamps on, made sure none was exposed this time, finished putting everything back together.
Driver side batt was 3 yrs old and tested bad too, so I bought a brand new Interstate battery, and got it all back together and tightened up, hopped in the truck all happy, thinking this problem might be fixed too, turned the key, it fired right up, but, NOPE! STILL runs like s***.
Then I grabbed my DMM and started checking voltages on the GPR, GPR wiring for breaks, cuts or loose connections etc. All checked out fine.
But at least I haven't had a no-start in a few mons. so, I got that going for me. Lol.