SES light on, runnin' rough but...no codes. I'm out of eye-deers. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 02-13-2020, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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SES light on, runnin' rough but...no codes. I'm out of eye-deers.

I have a 2001 F250 crew cab that's bone stock except for a 5" MBRP straight pipe. I'll try to keep the rundown as simple but informative as possible.

- Service engine soon light came on early Dec.

- It starts and idles fine. No hunting or surging.

- Avg MPG reading is around 9.6. [normally around 13.8 to 14.2]

- Poor acceleration, with hard (and early) shifts to 4th

- In O/D, Truck shutters/vibrates while driving. [almost like when you're accelerating with a manual trans. and you shift from 2nd to 5th at about 25mph]

- Did diag. tests on GPR with DMM and test light. - 12.3v - 12.4v on constant and relay side, w/audible "click" [again, no hard starts or white unburnt fuel clouds on startup]

- Got a BAFX Bluetooth OBDII adapter for Christmas.

- Installed the Torque Pro app, tried to pull codes. - None active, stored or pending.

- Disconnected both batts for 30 mins. to try and clear out temp. memory cache.

- Reconnected batts. SES light back on.

- Reconnected OBDII, ran the next two most thorough levels of scans [last one took 30+mins. to complete] - NADA.

- Exhaust has a "deeper tone" when idling, more so while accelerating, but still fairly smooth. [no stuttering, bucking or cutting out]
__________________________________________________ ____________________________


That leads me to believe it HAS to be a fuel delivery issue since it's obviously not a voltage/ignition/combustion issue.
The only test I haven't done yet is a buzz test. I'm really hoping it's not a dead injector(s). Bcuz after being out of work for 27 mons. I'm on an EXTREMELY tight budget. But after seeing the costs of injectors, even OEM/stock ones, I may just have to "roll the dice" and drive it for the next few months til I get some cash built back up to fix it, and pray to all that is holy it holds up til then.
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post #2 of 10 Old 02-14-2020, 07:51 AM
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You have everything you need to retest your truck with ForScan (5$). TorqueApp is a great tool for monitoring, better than ForScan I think, but doesn't as good a job as ForScan for testing and scanning (sounds like you should have a Transmission code at least).

I agree with you in that the lack of codes (if there really are none) would have me thinking Fuel Delivery too. For this, nothing beats a gauge to let you know what's going on.

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post #3 of 10 Old 02-15-2020, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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So, I installed ForScan and connected it. Low and behold, codes, codes, and more codes. So I cleared'em and cycled the key. No trans. codes. But there was a C1155 for a wheel speed sensor input failure, which I knew bcuz my ABS light has been on and off for months now. But the other code was a P1316 for an IDM issue. Which I soon found out ain't no $20 or $30 part. Lol.

So.....I may have to put a 1/2" Matco impact gun up for grabs to help offset the cost. Hopefully not though.

EDIT: I did a buzz test after seeing injectors as a possible cause, and all 9 buzzes were good. So, that pretty much leaves the IDM as the only viable suspect.
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post #4 of 10 Old 02-15-2020, 12:29 PM
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No, not really...

The buzz test is as much of a test of the IDM as it is the rest of the system. Once the IDM goes through he Buzz process you need to scan again to see if that buzz test (which is a form of self-test for the IDM) has resolved further codes.

Your issue could be intermittent with the engine, and its vibration, ON. So the next things to look for would be wire chafing of the bundle that comes from that Big Square 42-pin plug over the dr side valve cover, and goes across the engine. It often chafes on the valve cover there and causes shorting of the UVCH wires (roll it over and look at the bottom of the bundle).

Next there's the UVCH connectors themselves. They can "unclip" and become lose enough to burn & arc their pins to give you intermittent problems at first.

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post #5 of 10 Old 02-15-2020, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
So the next things to look for would be wire chafing of the bundle that comes from that Big Square 42-pin plug over the dr side valve cover, and goes across the engine. It often chafes on the valve cover there and causes shorting of the UVCH wires (roll it over and look at the bottom of the bundle).

Next there's the UVCH connectors themselves. They can "unclip" and become lose enough to burn & arc their pins to give you intermittent problems at first.
I think that sounds like a very good possibility and could also explain why I had so many "flash and dash" (aka "here 1 min, gone the next") electrical circuit failure related codes.
Here's what came up on the first two tries after connecting it to ForScan with just a key cycle. But before clearing them and then cycling the key.
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post #6 of 10 Old 02-16-2020, 06:05 AM
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BOY!!! That's a LOT of codes for TorqueApp to have missed!!!!

But the one that stands-out to me is -> Battery Voltage Too Low. This in itself could cause most the rest.

I would Clear and monitor your battery's voltage from the in-cab "Outlet" (an old cig ltr adapter connected to a meter makes this easy). What is the Voltage before you crank (GP's On), AS You're cranking on the Starter, and After it's running, and then as you drive.

Does your '01 have a Trans Temp Gauge in the cluster? (shows if it has the electrical upgrade that took place during the '01 run). If so, there's a common problem with the Fusible link connection that could be part of this...
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post #7 of 10 Old 02-17-2020, 02:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
BOY!!! That's a LOT of codes for TorqueApp to have missed!!!!

But the one that stands out to me is -> Battery Voltage Too Low. This in itself could cause most the rest.
It is alot. That shocked me too.

The batteries/cables/terminal clamps was the second place I started checking after first checking fuses and running a scan with TP. I learned real quick my first 2 weeks of being a diesel mechanic, I was shoulder-deep in a Kenworth 660's dash for two hours and my supervisor walked over, handed me a brand new 30A fuse and said "Here, try this. Then you can put it back together, park it out back, and you're welcome.

Doh!! Lol.


After that I always start with the easiest and simplest things first. I replaced both cables and clamps on the driver's side batt about 6 mons ago. and I've been having some frequent and random "turnover/no-starts" lately so I rechecked them again and found that the pos. cable on driver's side batt. had a gap between the clamp and the beginning of the rubber insulation where I stripped it before causing it to ground out. So I took the clamps completely off, bought new and better ones, found some corrosion on the first 1/2" or so of the exposed pos.cable wire. So I cut it back some til it was shiny copper again, re-stripped it, put the clamps on, made sure none was exposed this time, finished putting everything back together.

Driver side batt was 3 yrs old and tested bad too, so I bought a brand new Interstate battery, and got it all back together and tightened up, hopped in the truck all happy, thinking this problem might be fixed too, turned the key, it fired right up, but, NOPE! STILL runs like s***.

Then I grabbed my DMM and started checking voltages on the GPR, GPR wiring for breaks, cuts or loose connections etc. All checked out fine.
But at least I haven't had a no-start in a few mons. so, I got that going for me. Lol.
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post #8 of 10 Old 02-17-2020, 03:05 AM Thread Starter
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These are from the other scans I did after I cleared the ones in the first two pics I posted. The 1316 code making the most frequent appearances, so that's one more reason I'm leaning towards banging the gavel" and saying guilty on this one. Idk. I don't like just throwing parts at stuff and hoping something sticks.

My dad always told me, "The two most expensive ways to learn are going to an Ivy League college, and throwing parts at a mechanical problem."

Lol.
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post #9 of 10 Old 02-17-2020, 06:50 AM
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I wish there was a better way to test an IDM (at the dealership they just swap it with a know good used one they keep on the shelf). If you know anybody with a 7.3 they ALL work. It's an easy swap with no risk of damaging the "borrowed" one. You might also find that, once you have yours in your hand, you can hear Water inside (a common failure on these).
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post #10 of 10 Old Today, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
If you know anybody with a 7.3 they ALL work. It's an easy swap with no risk of damaging the "borrowed" one. You might also find that, once you have yours in your hand, you can hear Water inside (a common failure on these).
I do actually. But I highly doubt he'd let me though because he's super OCD about keeping it spotless and well maintained, so needless to say, he's pretty protective of his truck. Plus, our schedules are majorly conflictive so getting a chance when I'd have time to take it off of his truck, he'd be gone in it.

That is a pretty useful bit of info though. I'll definitely keep an eye out for another potential "temp donor". Lol.
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