'02 7.3 no start - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 11-21-2019, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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'02 7.3 no start

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Originally Posted by powerstarved View Post
I have found the problem went back and started testing fuses again but testing ohms resistance found fuse 22 to show as being good carring voltage but with to much resistance changed it and shes alive.These trucks sure are picky about there 12 v power. Found this 50 min after ordering a new pcm so if any one needs I got a spare vdh2 for sale.


I'm having the same problem as the original poster. My number 22 was blown, I replaced it, the dash lights work normally now but I still have a no start problem.
My problem started after I replaced the the #8 injector, all glow plugs and gaskets. Truck started great, drove it a couple of days and then replaced the glow plug solenoid. When changing out the solenoid I grounded out one or the other small terminals on the solenoid. This caused the IDM relay to buzz and a no start. I found this thread with the same no start problem but replacing my blown #22 fuse did not fix my no start.

Last night I plugged my tuner in and the camshaft sensor pulled a code. I replaced it and the same code still pulled plus I now have a PCM code, truck will still not start. Any ideas?
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post #2 of 25 Old 11-21-2019, 10:22 AM
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Bump, sorry your threads were caught by the spam blocker.

You are up now.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by djmaguire View Post
So says the internet... ...and so it shall be.
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Originally Posted by G8orFord View Post
OK, thanks for the info. To show my ignorance, what is the problem with 3 nipples...
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post #3 of 25 Old 11-21-2019, 12:28 PM
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So first, realize that the trucks fuse positions have changed over the years and #22 in your truck might not be #22 in that other post (22 in older trucks is the same as 30 in your '02 and it's the most common blown fuse, from a fuel heater element, that causes a no start).

Next, the only code you show that would concern me now is the 340 (that PCM code is something to be ignored most times, especially with a tuner). Can your tuner give you an RPM reading?

If so, make sure you see Cranking RPM as you try to start.

If not, you need to get a simple App that will allow you to monitor your sensors if your going to maintain your truck yourself.
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post #4 of 25 Old 11-21-2019, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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My tuner does show engine RPM when running. While cranking the engine now, it does not show any RPM
I just installed a new CPS from Ford, still won't start and no RPM reading on my tuner when cranking

Last edited by Overdraft540; 11-21-2019 at 04:33 PM.
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post #5 of 25 Old 11-21-2019, 04:42 PM
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So, your PCM isn't seeing any signal from the CPS (that P0340) or you would see RPM even on just the Starter. That's a problem as one of the PCM's requirement for starting is detecting above 100 RPM. It will never start until it sees that.

You say it's a new CPS? (I hope it would be either a Ford or IH sensor as aftermarket ones have been problematic) then the next place to examine would be its plug and wiring maybe.

Not sure how this would all relate to a arced wire on the GP relay though....

Have you looked at the fuseible link under the airbox?
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post #6 of 25 Old 11-21-2019, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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I purchased a CPS sensor from Autozone yesterday, installed it, then read online it probably won't work. I went to Ford over lunch and got one from the dealership, the Ford CPS is currently installed for my tests tonight. I'll pull the airbox and report back
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post #7 of 25 Old 11-21-2019, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Where am I looking for the fuseible link?
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post #8 of 25 Old 11-21-2019, 06:38 PM
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That square box at 12:00 with the big wire going through it (red sleeve). It's actually a cover and it often corrodes underneath.

https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99...ml#post1343921
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post #9 of 25 Old 11-21-2019, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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That all checks out good. I was happy to see even though it was corroded the nut was brass/copper. Cleaned up great, no problems.
I re-read your #5 post about arcing the GPR not mattering and also re-read your #3 post about fuse #22 being the fuel heater. I think we need to re-visit this.
My 2002 owners guide has fuse #22 (page 199) corresponding to Engine Control (page 200) 20amp. When I grounded out one or the other small terminals on the GP relay, relay #303 under that dash started buzzing crazy. I think relay #303 is for the Injector Drive Module. I did the search on this forum and found the original poster with the same problem. I found that the #22 fuse was blown when I grounded the GPR, and a new fuse caused relay #303 to stop buzzing. From that point on, the truck won't start.
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post #10 of 25 Old 11-21-2019, 07:31 PM
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So sure, let's start with the basics -

My usual No Start -

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Do you have a spare CPS to try?

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain lever to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on (expect this to set a new "Low ICP" code, don't let that misdirect you after a scan).

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.

NEXT, think of the PCMs requirements for starting;

1) ICP over @500psi
2) RPM over 100
3) Cranking Voltage above 9v (in an '02 - earlier trucks have higher requirements)

If you can, monitor all this with your tuner while cranking.

Additionally, the IPR% will tell you much about the health of the HiPres Oil system.

Voltage too is going to be very important, if it drops too low the PCM may "drop-out" and not be able to read CPS signal.
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