No wait to start light - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 01-03-2018, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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No wait to start light

Hello all. I am broke down. Stopped for fuel. Truck will not start. No wts light. No fuel pump. Hot wired pump and works. Still no start. Help please

2016 CCSB 4X4
6.7 Powerstroke (completely stock) for now.

2001 CCSB 4X4
All Amsoil Fluids
Hutch, Harpoon Mods
Ford AIS intake
Amsoil Bypass Oil filter system
6.0 Trans Cooler
Diesel Site External Trans filter
Diesel Site Coolant filter
Racor fuel filter
Riffraf FRx HPx
Riffraf Plenum inserts
Riffraf check valve delete
Diesel Site CAC boots
International bellowed up pipes
Banks Big Head wastegate and Banks compressor wheel
Banks 4in Turbo back exhaust
Banks Turbo boost, trans temp, pre turbo and post turbo EGT on pillar.
Autometer water temp and HPOP pressure overhead
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post #2 of 6 Old 01-03-2018, 04:16 PM
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The no WTS means the PCM isn't running, you've Got to get it back before trying to start again (just wasting batteries without it)

In most cases this is just a fuse, usually in the Winter it's fuse #30 in-cab

Start there, if you find 30 blown, unplug the Fuel Heater element (white plug at the bottom of the filter housing) or it will just blow again...
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post #3 of 6 Old 01-03-2018, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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I found a blown pcm fuse under hood box and was able to crank but now have no alt output. Would another blown fuse somewhere cause that?

2016 CCSB 4X4
6.7 Powerstroke (completely stock) for now.

2001 CCSB 4X4
All Amsoil Fluids
Hutch, Harpoon Mods
Ford AIS intake
Amsoil Bypass Oil filter system
6.0 Trans Cooler
Diesel Site External Trans filter
Diesel Site Coolant filter
Racor fuel filter
Riffraf FRx HPx
Riffraf Plenum inserts
Riffraf check valve delete
Diesel Site CAC boots
International bellowed up pipes
Banks Big Head wastegate and Banks compressor wheel
Banks 4in Turbo back exhaust
Banks Turbo boost, trans temp, pre turbo and post turbo EGT on pillar.
Autometer water temp and HPOP pressure overhead
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post #4 of 6 Old 01-07-2018, 08:24 AM
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check 30 amp fuse #30 under dash. if blown i have the same problem. im here to hopefully find the answer
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post #5 of 6 Old 01-10-2018, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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2-12 GA fusible links were the cause of my breakdown on the way to Reno. Caused the alternator to not charge batteries. I changed alternator about 20k miles ago and it was discovered it was putting out too much voltage and it eventually burnt up the fusible links which is the way it was designed to do Only thing now is I have no glow plugs, have power to the always hot side of the relay but nothing else, will try to jumper the 2 small posts to see if it is the relay or the PCM not telling the relay to energize. I hope its NOT the PCM
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2016 CCSB 4X4
6.7 Powerstroke (completely stock) for now.

2001 CCSB 4X4
All Amsoil Fluids
Hutch, Harpoon Mods
Ford AIS intake
Amsoil Bypass Oil filter system
6.0 Trans Cooler
Diesel Site External Trans filter
Diesel Site Coolant filter
Racor fuel filter
Riffraf FRx HPx
Riffraf Plenum inserts
Riffraf check valve delete
Diesel Site CAC boots
International bellowed up pipes
Banks Big Head wastegate and Banks compressor wheel
Banks 4in Turbo back exhaust
Banks Turbo boost, trans temp, pre turbo and post turbo EGT on pillar.
Autometer water temp and HPOP pressure overhead
bluemaruder001 is offline  
post #6 of 6 Old 01-10-2018, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemaruder001 View Post
Only thing now is I have no glow plugs, have power to the always hot side of the relay but nothing else, will try to jumper the 2 small posts to see if it is the relay or the PCM not telling the relay to energize. I hope its NOT the PCM
That is Not the way to test and could actually damage the PCM's semi conductor inside if you do that!

Disconnect Both of the sm wires from the GPR.
Key ON and you'll find one of them has 12v in it (connected, the both will)
Put the 12v wire Back ON the GPR
With a jumper, Ground the other, empty, terminal

You should hear/feel the solenoid throw when you ground that side because it completes the path to ground so current can flow through the coil, create a magnetic field, and close the contacts inside to energize the GPs.

If all that worked as it should the next step is to determine if the PCM is providing that path to ground.

Do this with a Meter only, put the red meter lead on the (+) of the battery and the black lead to the wire that came from the sm terminal you grounded (still disconnected). When cold, and the GPS should be coming on, you should find 12v flowing through the meter as the PCM tries to create that same magnetic field to energize the solenoid.

If you don't find that then it could be a couple of things besides the PCM too...
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