97 F350 7.3 PS Ran about 2 minutes the just quit now no start - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 03-30-2019, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
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97 F350 7.3 PS Ran about 2 minutes the just quit now no start

Thursday morning started truck(normally), started right up. While still sitting in the truck(about 2 minutes) it just stopped like it ran out of fuel BUT, no sputtering or hesitation, just stopped. Now it won't start. It's been running fine all winter including a couple -30F nights. I'm probably jumping the gun here as I do have a filter coming how ever I don't think it's the filter. While it does seem as though it's out of fuel it just doesn't act like a plugged fuel filter (ie, no loss of power, etc). It does try if I wait a few minutes but no start and the check engine light comes on. I've got to find someone with a scantool to check the code. What should I be looking for in the scantool readings, any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 26 Old 03-30-2019, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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Update: Found burnt connector at drivers side front injector/glowplug connector. I know I can replace the pigtail and even the gasket. I however would like to know why it burned up in the first place, I don't want to install a new harness and have it smoked too. Can anyone point me in the right direction for wiring diagram or pinouts of those connectors? I haven't had much luck doing so.
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post #3 of 26 Old 03-30-2019, 07:00 AM
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With the CEL illuminating I'm going to assume the WTS light is coming on (is it?). Is the oil level good? Underhood fuses all good? Check all the harness connections to the valvecovers for evidence of melting or burning. Remove the oil cap and sniff it. If it smells like burned electrical insulation you may have melted/burned undervalvecover harnesses (UVCHs). Check for oil in the Injector Control Pressure (ICP) sensor connection. Maybe remove the Injector Driver Module (IDM, silver box below drivers hood hinge) and see if there might be water sloshing around in it. Check the fuel pressure while cranking (minimum spec is 25 psi @ minimum 100 rpm crank speed). Have you tried switching tanks? Cheers!


Edit: (you posted the update while I was typing). The problem of the burning is a common problem on these things. You need at a minimum to replace the gasket and the burned pigtail. I would recommend replacing the gasket, UVCHs, and the bad pigtail on that side I also recommend using Motorcraft UVCHs and gasket. You might find a gasket with integral UVCHs (usually Dorman brand), but I would only use that if your finances dictate it. The best way to replace the pigtail is one wire at a time so you don't mess with the order of the wires (kind of like messing up the order of the sparkplug wires on a gasser). The outer wires are for the glowplugs and they are really undersized on these and they don't handle the amperage well especially if the connection has any additional high resistance issues). The inner three are for the injectors with center being common.

Last edited by Patrick Feeley; 03-30-2019 at 07:14 AM.
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post #4 of 26 Old 03-30-2019, 07:25 AM
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Also, solder and heatshrink those pigtail connections! Here are the diagrams, but I would just go wire-by-wire, on the pigtail replacement. Cheers!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Injector & Glowplug Wiring 003.pdf (259.4 KB, 19 views)
File Type: pdf Injector & Glowplug Wiring 004.pdf (250.5 KB, 12 views)
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post #5 of 26 Old 03-30-2019, 11:26 AM
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97 F350 7.3 PS Ran about 2 minutes the just quit now no start

Picture would not attach. I can pm if you'd like, it's the pin-outs for the IDM and the test procedures and resistance readings for the checking the wires from the IDM connector to the injectors.

Last edited by PigpenF350; 03-30-2019 at 11:32 AM.
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post #6 of 26 Old 03-30-2019, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Patrick, thanks for all the info and the diagrams. I will be replacing gasket, pigtails and UVCH's on both sides. In addition I will check all the components you have metioned. Thanks again.

Briefly Googled Motorcraft versions of those components and didn't come up with much. If you have a suggested site that you trust to purchase them it would be great. Thanks

Bill
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post #7 of 26 Old 03-30-2019, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Pigpen, that would be great, no such thing as to much info. Particularly interested in resistance readings and such.
Thanks again
Bill
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post #8 of 26 Old 03-30-2019, 05:50 PM
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I would say RiffraffDiesel.com, DieselORings.com, and K-MansParts.com all carry the OEM Gaskets, UVCH's, Glowplugs, and pigtails (those are aftermarket Ö factory had repair pins and connector shell pieces to repair the originals). Riffraff probably has the lowest prices of the 3 (but shop around for better prices). Parts:

Glowplugs: Motorcraft/Beru ZD-11, Ford F4TZ12A342BA
Gasket: Ford F4TZ6584A
UVCH: Ford F4TZ9D930K
Pigtail: Alliant AP0015
Glowplug Relay: I don't use factory as there are much better options: White-Rodgers 586-902 or Western Plow 56131K-1

Here are some testing procedures I use:

For checking the injector/glowplug wiring: From each valvecover gasket connection's outermost pins (2 per connector) to ground you should get 0.1 to 2 ohms (indicates good plug and wiring). From each valvecover gasket connection's center pin to each immediately adjacent pin, you should get around 3 ohms (indicates good injector solenoid and wiring). You should not get any continuity from any of the outer pins to the 3 inner pins (indicates no shorts between injector and glowplug wiring). You should also get 0 to 1 ohms from each of the external harness connectors outer pins back to the Glowplug Relay's large terminal on the GP side (indicates good wiring from external connections back to the relay).

To check the glowplug relay (GPR), measure the voltage drop across the GPR's large terminals. While the GPR is active (up to 1.5 to 2 minutes after the key is turned to Wait-to-Start) put your meter leads on the large terminals (one lead on one large terminal and the other lead on the other large terminal). The measures how much voltage is being "lost" across the relay. A reading of 0.3V or more indicates a bad relay. Also, check the relayís control wires (smaller wires) disconnected from the relay for battery voltage at the Red/Light Green striped wire and ground at the Purple/Orange striped wire (check both when the key is turned to Wait-to-Start).

Also, here's a link to the GB Remanufacturing Tech Bulletin for checking wiring from IDM to GPs: "GB Tech Bulletin #103: Ford Injector Driver Module (IDM) Replacement"

Cheers!
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post #9 of 26 Old 03-31-2019, 08:59 AM
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In my 16 years of driving 2 PSD the single most common reason for UVCH failure is the thin gauge wire used for glow plug wiring combined with the fact that the glow plug strategy is for them to be on a long time probably for emissions purposes.

The best thing I ever did was wiring a toggle switch going from the glow plug relay to the PCM on the ground wire that the PCM uses to control the relay. I can now disable the glow plugs during a hot start or warm enough ambient temps to not need the glow plugs. Also on a cold start, once the engine is started I switch the glow plugs off manually.

I also have an LED in the cab wired to the glow plug side of the relay so I can tell when it is energized.

To me it saves wear and tear on the relay, glow plugs, and harness wiring.
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post #10 of 26 Old 03-31-2019, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all for great info. Rained all day today so I was unable to run tests you have indicated. First thing tomorrow ...... watch out.
Thanks again

Bill
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