7.3 Powerstroke "reliable" power - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 43 Old 12-27-2018, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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7.3 Powerstroke "reliable" power

Hey guys, i have a 97 f350 with 99k on the clock and I wanted to boost the power a little. The truck is a daily driver so it still needs to be reliable and im not looking for a huge power increase, just enough to make getting up to speed on the highway a breeze. truck already has the Riff Raff HDX oil line, straight piped exhaust, and a 6637 intake from Riff Raff diesel, other than that the truck is bone stock. I'm hesitant about getting a tuner because I've heard some horror stories with them. I am also looking into doing a disc brake conversion in the rear for ease of maintenance compared to the drum brakes so if anyone has advice on that that would be awesome.

Thanks Guys!
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post #2 of 43 Old 12-27-2018, 08:31 PM
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Have you done a 3" downpipe?

@[email protected] can set you up.
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post #3 of 43 Old 12-27-2018, 11:38 PM
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I will list mods and brand that I run in my truck and will list them in my recommended order:I run Stock Sticks

CAI- S&B I liked their data sheet and its a much cleaner look. bit pricey but worth it I also run a cleanable cloth filter

Boost/TransTemp/Pyro Guages- Autometer all Mechanical

Boost Fooler- Full Force

Intercooler system- full banks intercooler system, its pricey but banks knows what they are doing as far as design on the flow of the y-pipe. I like their smooth transition when the pipe splits into the plenums. I can run up a medium grade with temps about 600* steady throttle at 70mph with all the mods listed.

E-Fuel- I run Mark Fugazzatto's, I opted to put in a Bosch Pump #69136 and a toggle switch with the fuse provided. its simple and does not clutter the valley like others do.

1.0 A/R housing- Garrett, thermal coated black

360* bearing kit- Garrett it already had an upgraded wheel but not the billet when I tore it apart.

Non EBPV Pedestal and Exhaust Flange-Garret

HPX- Strictly Diesel HPX I felt more comfortable with tubing than a hose and I liked what their data chart showed with it connecting from mid driver side to rear passenger side

High Flow Banjo Bolts-RiffRaff

3" DP- Diamond Eye

5" exhaust dumped before the Axel- custom

Stage 2 trans- local shop built with billet internals and converter along with AFE pan, if you don't do this your going to wish you did after you install tuner

Tuner- PHP I run the truck in the 90+HP tunes everyday all day. its not the horsepower its the amount of torque you pick up that kills the trans.

the truck runs like a like a dream. this is the way these things should have run from the factory but were restricted and detuned for EPA reasons.
this is pretty much the foundation for the build that I planned FullForce 250/100 or 200 injectors new HPOP and my version of the TP38R of course new Glow plugs harness springs

I didn't want to buy a billet wheel for the stock housing because its not permanent. I built another turbo, my own slight version of the KCTP38R without the ball bearing and their name which is pretty much it. I did some research and to be honest the ball bearings is really more suited for the ricers and the spool difference between journal and ball bearing is minimal and just not worth the money and possibility of blowing the bearings and sending parts into the motor. Probably not possible with my second stage plan I have lined up for the motor, which is a bit less than 600HP, never the less to many variables that I was not comfortable with and the price tag which is why I built my own.
For a bit over half the cost of KCs including all brand new parts and VSR Cartridge balanced at PureTurbos. I built it from Brand New Garrett parts, same New compressor housing which I had to polish myself which I found online along with a billet wheel from pureturbos(thank God for CNC Machines just about anything can be replicated).

this turned out to be a long one but I hope it helps you out little buddy. Huge Shout Out to RiffRaff and CNC they usually have the lowest prices on a lot of the items I listed above.
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post #4 of 43 Old 12-29-2018, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomginda73 View Post
Hey guys, i have a 97 f350 with 99k on the clock and I wanted to boost the power a little. The truck is a daily driver so it still needs to be reliable and im not looking for a huge power increase, just enough to make getting up to speed on the highway a breeze. truck already has the Riff Raff HDX oil line, straight piped exhaust, and a 6637 intake from Riff Raff diesel, other than that the truck is bone stock. I'm hesitant about getting a tuner because I've heard some horror stories with them. I am also looking into doing a disc brake conversion in the rear for ease of maintenance compared to the drum brakes so if anyone has advice on that that would be awesome.

Thanks Guys!
Do you have a budget in mind for any power increase? The only horror stories out there really are those where people screwed up and install, or they already had underlying issues with their truck that the added HP made them alot more noticeable. A tuner will really wake it up for sure and we carry many brands, but the best out there is the PHP Hydra chip. Here's a link for it.

https://cncfab.us/i-30498022-php-hyd...php-hydra.html

We dont make the hardline HPx only because they are more prone to leaking over time. The high pressure fluctuations along with vibrations make it leak. We use a very specific hose and have never had any issues. In fact many people have swapped there RR version out with ours. But since you have it, run it until you cross that bridge to replace it.
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[SIZE="3"]For all your ford powerstroke needs. If you dont see what you are looking for on the website, please use the contact page and shoot us a message or
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Part numbers will help alot too if they are not on our site.
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post #5 of 43 Old 12-29-2018, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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@3rdgearslammer thats quite the list lol. I don't think I want to go that crazy I was thinking somewhere around 350hp. I have looked into getting a billet wheel for the stock turbo because I've heard it gives a bit of power. I think a built turbo is a bit fat for my wallet at the moment. @White95f250 yeah I have an MBRP 3" down pipe and 4" straight pipe all the way back. @[email protected] I don't really have a budget set in stone, but probably not much more that $3k. My concern with tuning is the stock transmission I've heard a number of stories where they just quit between 150 and 200K. Now I'm sure that has just as much to do with maintenance as anything but that being said when I bought my truck out of all the service records there I couldn't find one for trans service, leading me to believe that it hasn't ever been touched and I'm hesitant to change it because it is fairly dark.

97 F350, straight piped, 6637 intake, HDX oil crossover
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post #6 of 43 Old 12-29-2018, 02:26 PM
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The power is easy to get, it's all the supporting mods that cost the $$$.
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post #7 of 43 Old 01-02-2019, 06:14 AM
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...And to ease your mind with reliability concerns... providing , like Corey said, there are no underlying issues with the truck, the truck will come out equally as reliable as it already is. With proper tuning, and the right quality parts the truck will even be a little healthier and you will see an increase in, not only HP, but also MPG's.

Yes, the trans will still be your weak link, but you don't have to break the budget to make it reliable too. Poke around on Corey's site.

-Eric-

96 cclb, baby swamps, TS 6 position w/swamp's tunes, billet wheel, 1.0 housing, diy ebpv delete w/plugged pedestal, 3" downpipe to 4" exhaust, 6637, boost, egt, trans gauge, fully built trans, 203* tstat, 08 diff cover, airlift helper springs

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post #8 of 43 Old 01-15-2019, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry for the long delay guys I've been doing a bunch of research and think I have compiled a list of mods and repairs to do in the spring:

New injectors
Regulates fuel return
Billet compressor wheel
Reseal pedestal
Bellowed up pipes
PHP Hydra
6.0 trans cooler
Intercooler?
Disc brake conversion for rear axle
New front brakes

I was also looking into possibly getting a Gearvendors splitter but that's more for fuel mileage daily driving than anything else. Few questions I have:

1-which tunes should I get for the Hydra? I've seen a lot of recommendations for the 1023 tunes but I'm always open to suggestions.
2-I have heard that these engines could possibly have problems with the rod/crank bearings if you tune them too high. Does this hold any weight and if so what is the "reliable" max?
3-I know this one is a shot in the dark, but does anyone have a Gearvendors for their truck and how do they hold up?
4-My truck has AA injectors and I wanted to switch to the AB because they run smoother and flow more fuel, but I know I would have to reprogram the truck to run with the injectors. Where could I have that done and is it worth it? Don't want to upgrade to too big of an injector

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions guys!

97 F350, straight piped, 6637 intake, HDX oil crossover
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post #9 of 43 Old 01-15-2019, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomginda73 View Post
Sorry for the long delay guys I've been doing a bunch of research and think I have compiled a list of mods and repairs to do in the spring:

New injectors
Regulates fuel return
Billet compressor wheel
Reseal pedestal
Bellowed up pipes
PHP Hydra
6.0 trans cooler
Intercooler?
Disc brake conversion for rear axle
New front brakes

I was also looking into possibly getting a Gearvendors splitter but that's more for fuel mileage daily driving than anything else. Few questions I have:

1-which tunes should I get for the Hydra? I've seen a lot of recommendations for the 1023 tunes but I'm always open to suggestions.
2-I have heard that these engines could possibly have problems with the rod/crank bearings if you tune them too high. Does this hold any weight and if so what is the "reliable" max?
3-I know this one is a shot in the dark, but does anyone have a Gearvendors for their truck and how do they hold up?
4-My truck has AA injectors and I wanted to switch to the AB because they run smoother and flow more fuel, but I know I would have to reprogram the truck to run with the injectors. Where could I have that done and is it worth it? Don't want to upgrade to too big of an injector

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions guys!
1- Try the tunes that come with the hydra first, the standard PHP tuning worked great for me when I had stock injectors.

2- With a forged rod 7.3 you don't have to worry about the bottom end untill you are making well over 500 hp.

3- I have heard good and bad things about the gear vendors, personally I wouldn't use one, because it adds more moving parts to the driveline, making it less reliable. If you want lower rpms you would be better off doing an axle gear swap or getting bigger tires.

4- AB injectors are split shot injectors, they were only used for emissions reasons and are actually less efficient than the single shot injectors you have now. Unless you injectors are worn out I would do the other mods first then see how it runs before you go buying injectors. If you want larger ones in the future, stage 1 single shots (160/0) will give you enough fuel for 350 hp, then it goes up from there.

00 f250 ext. cab, lb, 4x4, 158,000, zf 6 speed, South Bend 1944ofe, 4 in lift, 315/75/16 Courser MXTs, rear Detroit locker, PMF traction bars, Full Force 180/80 injectors, php hydra, Riff Raff frx, Riff Raff billet compressor wheel, Dieselsite pre pump kit, Dorman up pipes,IAH delete, ccv mod, 6637 filter, Auto Meter gauges, scan guage 2, 4 in diamod eye straight pipe 6 in tip.
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post #10 of 43 Old 01-15-2019, 06:54 PM
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The AB injectors do flow more fuel, but running them would require a 49-state auto trans PCM (DPC-202) to be reprogrammed to a MIF-series code (late-1996 California splitshot program for auto trans). The splits require more HP oil than the singles. As mentioned, modified single shots would be a better option. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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