What did you do to your OBS today? - Page 695 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #6941 of 7157 Old 07-07-2016, 08:33 AM
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I've had very good luck with running the TTB on lifted trucks, The only reason I swapped mine was because I found it sitting in the back of a pickup just up the street from where I work for $500. Where are you located and what do you consider a reasonable price? The norm around here is $800-$1200.
That is what I am finding around here... Just found a 4.10 D60 out of a 1997.. I know it's not a kingpin but they're asking $1200 for it wheel to wheel so I am going to go take a look at it and see what kind of shape it's in. I'm looking for something in the price range you picked yours up.... Around $500... I may even put this back together so I can get the truck out of the garage then start buying parts as they come to build a front axle..

Anymore than $1200 and I'll start looking at buying a set of front and rear Rockwell 2.5 ton axles for $2000 total and just get ridiculous with this truck lol

I'm going to go take a look and just check this thing out.... I've seen them on trucks and what not but have never seen a d60 just sitting out on the ground..or pallet or whatever... Just to get an idea of everything...

I know superchargedPSD is running his TTB with the lift he is putting on... What kind of lift have you put on your TTBs? And why is everyone against the D50....? I find it hard to make an informed decision when people just say, "get a d60 its mo betta for hardcore".... I suppose a d50 TTB will hold up just fine as long as you don't beat the crap out of it...
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post #6942 of 7157 Old 07-07-2016, 08:50 AM
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i sell sets front and rear for 1000, including all the parts for the swap. i wouldn't worry about KP vs ball joint. i would actually perfer what is currently under the truck bake wise so i wouldn't need to swap brakes/calipers

94.5 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 5 speed 4.10 276000 plus miles

97 F350 Crew Cab LB 4x4 5 speed 3.55 320000 plus miles (parts truck)



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post #6943 of 7157 Old 07-07-2016, 08:52 AM
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I have run several trucks with 4" lifts and 35's and have not had any major problems and they have all been used in some pretty tough environments. The biggest issue with the TTB's are they are a little harder to work on such as replacing the inner u-joint on the right side shaft and replacing the pivot bushings. If you use poly bushings in the springs and pivots make sure all the pivot bracket bolts stay tight use high quality ball joints and have a shop that will take the time to do a perfect alignment (not by the book) the TTB will hold up just fine for many years.
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post #6944 of 7157 Old 07-07-2016, 09:00 AM
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The biggest issue with the TTB is that it's a two piece axle housing. That means a couple things. First, you have more fail points and bushings to get sloppy while the 60 has none. Second, wheel alignment and especially camber become your nemesis the second you start to move away from stock. Because of how it articulates and where it's "hinged" every up and down movement directly affects the camber. The air bag idea, for example, is really neat but EVERY time you air it up or down you are going to affect camber. You would have to set the pressure, have it aligned then maintain that pressure perfectly. You couldn't air it up or down willy nilly because it will mess with your camber every time.

The D60 is one solid tube right across. You can mess with your suspension, tires, shocks etc to your hearts content with no issue. Steering notwithstanding, but that's easy to remedy.

If you ever see a D50 out of a truck and laying on the ground I bet you dollars to donuts you WILL say W......T........F.....

Can you lift a TTB and have it work properly in all aspects? Absolutely but it's more complex and can be very frustrating. The reason we all try to switch to the D60 is because it makes front axle life so so much easier in all aspects and USUALLY ends up with a better ride.
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post #6945 of 7157 Old 07-07-2016, 12:05 PM
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The biggest issue with the TTB is that it's a two piece axle housing. That means a couple things. First, you have more fail points and bushings to get sloppy while the 60 has none. Second, wheel alignment and especially camber become your nemesis the second you start to move away from stock. Because of how it articulates and where it's "hinged" every up and down movement directly affects the camber. The air bag idea, for example, is really neat but EVERY time you air it up or down you are going to affect camber. You would have to set the pressure, have it aligned then maintain that pressure perfectly. You couldn't air it up or down willy nilly because it will mess with your camber every time.

The D60 is one solid tube right across. You can mess with your suspension, tires, shocks etc to your hearts content with no issue. Steering notwithstanding, but that's easy to remedy.

If you ever see a D50 out of a truck and laying on the ground I bet you dollars to donuts you WILL say W......T........F.....

Can you lift a TTB and have it work properly in all aspects? Absolutely but it's more complex and can be very frustrating. The reason we all try to switch to the D60 is because it makes front axle life so so much easier in all aspects and USUALLY ends up with a better ride.
Good information thank you
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post #6946 of 7157 Old 07-07-2016, 01:49 PM
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The way I went about it was with an RSK kit so that in the event I find or want a D60 it can bolt up to the RSK. Other than that I spent 40$ on a pair of Skyjacker drop brackets. If I play with airbags it would be to set a static ride height and see if it can improve the ride further. So far the RSK already made a huge difference and the alignment is out and I am still running the factory length shocks. One issue with alignment with the TTB has been not dropping the drag link low enough. The standard drop Pitman I installed still did not drop it far enough. Skyjacker does make extreme drop pitmans that I may need to extend tire life. Other than that the drop brackets flex a lot which cause many issues including cracking. Skyjacker does make a class 2 one piece drop bracket but it a little more than 300$. I am going to reinforce my class 1 brackets by welding some tube and gussets to reduce flexibility.
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post #6947 of 7157 Old 07-08-2016, 01:51 PM
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I will confess that I didn't do all of this today. More like over the last year or so but I thought I would share the change.

I started with the black truck in the first pic and ended with the white dully in the second pic. I did a full color change including the door jambs and between the bed and cab. Big job converting from SRW to DRW and a full paint job. No your eyes are not playing tricks, it is 2 tone white. The brighter white is spray on bed liner. I'm also going to do the lower rocker to tie it all together by the end of the summer. But for now that's what I have. Now it's on to the interior. Converting from grey to tan.
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post #6948 of 7157 Old 07-08-2016, 06:17 PM
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That's awesome. Nice work
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post #6949 of 7157 Old 07-08-2016, 08:04 PM
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So after I installed the new exhaust system I had to do something about the factory speakers. I decided that for the best sound with windows down I needed to install an amp, better speakers in all four corners and add a small (10") powered subwoofer. Running the wires from the front doors took me the longest, but man was it worth it. The sound is amazing and I can hear the radio with the windows down. I highly recommend. (I know that it's not as cool as what some of you did to your ride today, but....)
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post #6950 of 7157 Old 07-09-2016, 06:58 AM
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So after I installed the new exhaust system I had to do something about the factory speakers. I decided that for the best sound with windows down I needed to install an amp, better speakers in all four corners and add a small (10") powered subwoofer. Running the wires from the front doors took me the longest, but man was it worth it. The sound is amazing and I can hear the radio with the windows down. I highly recommend. (I know that it's not as cool as what some of you did to your ride today, but....)
what system did you install?
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