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post #5551 of 5937 Old 12-19-2016, 06:19 AM

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJFLASH View Post
Agreed but the fact that it does it consistently with specific gears makes me lean toward a crunchy trans.

Jake you can pop the clutch slave off the side of the trans and pull the rubber boot that the arm goes through. You can inspect the arm and forks and the little post/ball that it pivots on. They eventually both get worn and sloppy.
Or a combination of all three.
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post #5552 of 5937 Old 12-20-2016, 03:47 AM
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thank you for the help I am going to check it this weekend, and I'll let you know. I really appreciate it
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post #5553 of 5937 Old 12-26-2016, 06:21 AM
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Ok 97 ccsb f250 7.3
The fuel tank selector stopped working.

I typically will swap tanks and fill one at the pump drive a bit and swap back.
I rarely use the rear tank as the gauge isn't accurate.

Filled front tank won't switch back to the front.

I ordered a switch online but they sent the wrong one. While I had the old one out I cleaned contact points etc and no dice.

I climbed under thr truck found what I thought was the selector and tapped on it along with unplugged it and plugged it back in.

When I went back to the dash to see if I got lucky the gauge was coming down to low from full.

Question does it default to front tank when the selector is unplugged?

How hard is that to change?

Chances of it just being the switch?


Thanks a bunch

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post #5554 of 5937 Old 12-26-2016, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JUICED COUPE View Post
Ok 97 ccsb f250 7.3
The fuel tank selector stopped working.

I typically will swap tanks and fill one at the pump drive a bit and swap back.
I rarely use the rear tank as the gauge isn't accurate.

Filled front tank won't switch back to the front.

I ordered a switch online but they sent the wrong one. While I had the old one out I cleaned contact points etc and no dice.

I climbed under thr truck found what I thought was the selector and tapped on it along with unplugged it and plugged it back in.

When I went back to the dash to see if I got lucky the gauge was coming down to low from full.


Question does it default to front tank when the selector is unplugged?

Not likely as there is an electro magnet that drives the selector. Not a spring.

How hard is that to change?

hardest part is getting old fittings off crap plastic and it all surviving. Other than that and the truck being just high enough that you can't sit up and too high to lay on a creeper, not very hard. Remove it from the frame and use a/c tools to pull off the hoses. Snap them into the new unit and attach to the frame.

Chances of it just being the switch?

the original switches where pretty robust. If the switch sounds crisp it's likely just fine. The selector (except the actual switching of the tank) is independent from the switch so things like fuel level use the harness and not the switch to report to the cluster. Finding a good replacement tank selector that is also diesel2/B20 acceptable aren't great, at least around my parts. The minimalistic fix that still uses both tanks is to run only the front to the engine and the rear (through its own switch and tee'd into the front return line) tank to fill the front tank as you travel down the road. Be mindful not to over fill the tank.


Thanks a bunch

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See above.

Matt
-'97 Mini Monster -SOLD-
-Bean's: 160/100, 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

-'15 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4


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post #5555 of 5937 Old 12-26-2016, 08:00 AM
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Is there a way I can just switch it to the front tank from the rear tank and let it be?

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post #5556 of 5937 Old 12-26-2016, 09:19 AM
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Looking online the part is like $75

Specifically what tools does it take to pull the line off and switch?

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post #5557 of 5937 Old 12-28-2016, 03:01 PM
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CPS

OK being a noob to diesels I've spent many hours on here in the last 2 weeks.
One thing I acted on was to order a Ford CPS #F4TZ-12K073-C ,black. Now I see the grey one with a -B,whats the difference .
My truck is a 97 ,auto.

97,7.3 PS auto. 3"down pipe,6637 cold air. muffler delete,Insight CTS2, PHP Hydra second owner.
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post #5558 of 5937 Old 12-28-2016, 04:27 PM
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One way or the other but one is Ford the other is International.

Matt
-'97 Mini Monster -SOLD-
-Bean's: 160/100, 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

-'15 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4


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post #5559 of 5937 Old 12-28-2016, 07:38 PM
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What rear ujoint do you guys recommend? There seems to be a million part numbers on the web. I picked up a spicer greaseable at orrilys because they would have to special order the nongreaseable one....
1995 f350 4wd.


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post #5560 of 5937 Old 01-02-2017, 03:05 PM
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Bought the only spicer one orrielly's had and it seems too small!


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