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post #5021 of 5937 Old 11-02-2014, 04:30 PM
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With almost zero supporting information and assuming it shows well and checks out mechanically... 5800 would be a pretty good price in my area.
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post #5022 of 5937 Old 11-02-2014, 04:57 PM
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Hell your not far from me (considering) but I can buzz test and do a contribution test on it if ya really want to know how they are doing, but if she starts cold and everything works and it looks as good in person, get it

-Kris-
2000 excursion V10 2wd 230k
2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 246k
1995 CCLB DRW 324K
2001 CCLB DRW 319K
Dp tuner infinity, exhaust, intake, chipped, tricked, and wrecked
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Well at least you caught the loose bolts before they cause any damage. Nothing worse than a sloppy hole
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post #5023 of 5937 Old 11-02-2014, 04:59 PM
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Hey guys, i was just wondering if this truck would be a deal/steal? i know most 7.3 powerstrokes easily make it over 300k miles, so I figure there is plenty of life left in this engine. I see trucks like this going for 7k around here all the time. What do yall think? http://atlanta.craigslist.org/eat/cto/4668478129.html
Not a steal but I guess it could be a deal. If it doesnt shake real bad at idle and starts right up with not too much smoke Id snag that truck

Luke

97 F250 CCSB 4 inch straight pipe, 6637 intake, TS 6 pos (daily)

08 F350 6.4 Reg Cab flatbed Spartan tuned, AFE Intake, DPF/DOC Delete(work truck)

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post #5024 of 5937 Old 11-02-2014, 05:38 PM
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Hell your not far from me (considering) but I can buzz test and do a contribution test on it if ya really want to know how they are doing, but if she starts cold and everything works and it looks as good in person, get it
We really aren't that far from each other at all. I'd appreciate it if you could man. I'm sure you know more about this than I do. Still no idea what im really looking at yet.
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post #5025 of 5937 Old 11-02-2014, 06:21 PM
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Well just shoot me a PM, best I can do to go to the truck tho would be a weekend, but hit me up we can talk more on me checking it for ya with what I have ready and some of my (little) knowledge

-Kris-
2000 excursion V10 2wd 230k
2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 246k
1995 CCLB DRW 324K
2001 CCLB DRW 319K
Dp tuner infinity, exhaust, intake, chipped, tricked, and wrecked
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marine5811
The stock downpipe in an OBS is flat because I'm a ginger.
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Originally Posted by alberta 7.3
Finding a decent woman is like shopping for a used truck. You spend most of your time picking through the money pits, wrecks, and basket cases until you find one that you can tolerate
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJFLASH
Well at least you caught the loose bolts before they cause any damage. Nothing worse than a sloppy hole
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post #5026 of 5937 Old 11-03-2014, 02:36 PM
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Ok here comes the newb again......

Havent had the truck running in a few days... And i crank it to move it to load it up to make a trip in the morning. As its idling in the driveway i move it and notice a puddle under it. Its diesel fuel. Its dripping off the back of the engine where the trans is. Open hood and

Well i went ahead and drove it around the block came back and the dripping seems to have gone away.

Help...... Please!!!!!

Ok I still have ordered the parts but I'm going to orser them tmw. I put maybe 100 miles,towing the camper this weekend and after a but of driving the leak slows down as to I dont even see it dripping but when its cold it pours. Im gonna order all the parts we mentioned but i wanted to make sure the fact that it is slowing down after driving doesnt piint to it being the pump or another part i may need to fix while its apart.

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post #5027 of 5937 Old 11-03-2014, 05:50 PM
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What should I be removing to access my valley fully to replace valve cover gaskets and install e fuel?

Do I need to take off the alternator and AC clutch? Can the turbo stay in place?

1996 F-350 XL CCLB 4x4, ZF-5, AFE Intake, CCV reroute and trap, Fuel Block Efuel Kit, DIY Dual Oil Filter Bypass Kit.
God is good and gig 'em Aggies.
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post #5028 of 5937 Old 11-03-2014, 10:04 PM
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Juiced, most leaks are worse cold cause metal and rubber contracts. As you get to operating temps they expand and leaks generally slow down. What you are describing is normal. Have you cleaned it up some, laid on your engine with a flashlight and mirror (for the tight spots) and had someone start it and let it run while you watch for the leak? Might take a bit of surveillance but you can usually spot the source. Especially since your leak looks pretty major.

Cal, you don't need to do anything in the valley to do the valve covers. Just intake stuff on the driver's side. For efuel you will need to clean it out from turbo to hpop. Really isn't much, just oem pump and fuel bowl.

Last edited by JJFLASH; 11-03-2014 at 10:10 PM.
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post #5029 of 5937 Old 11-04-2014, 07:22 AM
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Cal, if you are keeping the factory hard lines to the back of the heads you can leave the turbo in. If you are running new lines to the heads it is easier to remove the turbo to have better access to those little fittings. They seal by an o-ring so being spun in tight is not needed. Those rear fittings are also very delicate and easy to break in the heads. another reason to pull the turbo so you are not side-loading the fittings.

Matt
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post #5030 of 5937 Old 11-04-2014, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JJFLASH View Post
Juiced, most leaks are worse cold cause metal and rubber contracts. As you get to operating temps they expand and leaks generally slow down. What you are describing is normal. Have you cleaned it up some, laid on your engine with a flashlight and mirror (for the tight spots) and had someone start it and let it run while you watch for the leak? Might take a bit of surveillance but you can usually spot the source. Especially since your leak looks pretty major.

Cal, you don't need to do anything in the valley to do the valve covers. Just intake stuff on the driver's side. For efuel you will need to clean it out from turbo to hpop. Really isn't much, just oem pump and fuel bowl.
No I dont have much help these days. I need to invest in a mirror as thats one tool ive never used.
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