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post #1 of 12 Old 01-12-2020, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Project plans

I wanted to run this down to everyone and see if there’s any interest in me documenting part/all of the work I plan on doing on my 1995 F350 CCLB 7.3 4X4 in the coming weeks. Please comment if there is something you want to see in detail. I’m not a mechanic, I’m borrowing someone’s shop, I’ll have to use my phone for pictures, and have to figure it all out as I go.

-Turbo rebuild with the KC balanced assembly
-ebpv delete pedestal
-new glow plug relay
-high flow banjo bolts
-new bellowed up pipes
-full force 160/stock injectors
-PHP chip
-glow plugs
-injector cups
-valve cover gaskets and harness plugs
-glowshift pillar gauges (boost, egt, fuel pressure)
-complete irate diesel efuel kit
-will take bed off and check status of fuel tanks and pick up tubes
-new rear brake shoes, maybe drums too
- front brake pads, maybe calipers and hoses depending on shape
-front inner axle seals

This stuff is a “maybe...as time allows or needs arise”:
-universal joints and carrier bearing
-any front ball joint or bushings that need replacing
-while the bed is off, I want to clean up the frame and maybe paint it all black. Maybe
-switch from auto locking hubs to manual locking hubs
-I want an intercooler

I think that’s everything. I hope. I’m taking off a week to do it all.

I’ll be putting a flatbed on the truck at some point, and also painting the cab. I want to get rid of most of the chrome and go mostly red/black.

This might be more work than I bargained for.
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-15-2020, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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I hear an echo. Or maybe crickets...
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-16-2020, 09:31 AM
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You're more ambitious than I! I'm just wondering why injector cups? Are they cracked or otherwise damaged? To me that's one of those "if it ain't broke, " items. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-16-2020, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Doing the cups partly as insurance, I don’t want to have to do all this work again. Would be easy to swap them out while there. The brass ones from factory are 25 years old. Maybe I shouldn’t mess with them though? I’m sure I can return the replacement cups I bought. Advice from anyone with experience would be great. Should I leave the cups alone?
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-16-2020, 06:05 PM
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If you already have the tools, sealant, and cups (and feel comfortable doing the work), then go for it. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-16-2020, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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I’ve got all that. The only thing I’m questionable on is the confidence. I’m going to take my time and just see how it goes. I’ve got a couple life lines I can call if I need to. It will cost me a case of beer, but I don’t mind that.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-22-2020, 02:30 PM
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You my friend are doing everything I've done to my truck already, why not step up to 180 cc injectors they are the same price and that is what I have. If you have any questions pm me and I'll give you my number, I've done everything you're wanting to do on my 94 plus bellowed up pipes, I have a stock turbo but I have a 1.0 exhaust housing and a billet wheel, I made my own fuel system as I'm cheap and with me making my own I know where to locally source parts if and when I need them. I even did the superduty intercooler on mine. Let me know if I can be of any assistance.
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-22-2020, 03:22 PM
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unless you have a fuel/coolant mixing issue leave the cups alone. Take a peak with a light to make sure but generally speaking leave them unless there is an issue. I would not waste the time/money on the bango bolts high flows too. not really going to do anything. Spend the money to reseal the fuel bowl and replace any fuel line rubbers would be money better spent.

The front axle inner seals bring more questions too. Are your currently leaking or? if not leave them. They can be fun to remove and fun to install and very easy to mess up. Also noticing you mentioned your skill level as "im not a mechanic" something I learned and still learn. Think of the time you think its going to take you and triple it at minimum. It will put you in a better mind set when 99.9% of things don't go as planned on a 25yr old truck. Bolts break, wire connectors crack, wires get pulled/ripped out, you drop a bolt you need to move onto the next project etc.

Prior military always pushed me to go, go, go and not waste time. Turning wrenches requires a little more of a patient mindset to keep your sanity during big overhauls. Good luck and as usual pics or it didn't happen hahaha.

-99 F250, 4X4, 6.0 trans cooler, 08 mirrors, 05 grill, AIS Intake, lvl kit, JW Vbody, cncfab hpop lines, WW2.

04 Excursion Modified, 04 F350 Modified, 06 F350 Modified

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post #9 of 12 Old 01-22-2020, 07:03 PM
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I didn't see him say anything about replacing axles seals unless I over looked it, he is also going efuel so no more fuel bowl, when I did injectors in mine I also did injector cups because I was there and are simple to swap out, I also did glow plugs and valve cover harness while I was there just to know I'd have years of trouble free running issues.
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-22-2020, 07:07 PM
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Sorry I reread it and saw about the axle seals, mine leak on mine also but only when kts completely full it leaks out some and then stops leaking and its about 3/4 of an inch below the fill plug but since it rarely has a load on it and I dont drive with front hubs locked it will be fine for me for now.

To the OP when I converted from auto front hubs to manual hubs I didnt use the factory style double nut setup, I used the ratcheting type like the rear uses and havent looked back, the double nut setup can be a pain atleast to me, the ratchet nuts are about $40 each so not a whole lot more than buying new double nut setup. Just some food for thought, good luck on your journey.
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