front axle locknut tool - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
94-98 7.3L Exterior Discussion Body and Accessories Talk

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post #1 of 8 Old 09-11-2019, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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front axle locknut tool

1996 F250 7.3 Diesel 4WD manual locking hubs.
Front rotor cracked. I need the tool to remove the 2 locknuts. Having a hell of a time finding one. I'd like something that will take an impact wrench if possible. Here's what's on the axle label:
DANA P/N 610459 8
6 OCT 95
CUST PN FSTA-3002-ABB
CU 50
Serial #2951002206
Can anyone tell me the axle model from this?
Can anyone tell me where to get the tool I need?
Any tips also welcome.
Any help or info will be most appreciated.
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post #2 of 8 Old 09-11-2019, 06:38 PM
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First of all don't use an impact on those nuts -- they aren't that tight and an impact may shear off the locking tab for the nuts

When setting the bearing preload, back the inner nut off 2 to 3 flats before tightening the lock nut in place -- otherwise the bearing will be too tight(side slack in the threads) -- the finished hub should roll with only a little drag and no wobble/slack side to side

Not sure of the size needed, but I use the "stamped tin" sockets available at most auto parts stores, or NAPA, Car Quest, Snap-on, Mac, Matco

Here is a site that explains a bit about your axle
https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...ana_axle.shtml

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post #3 of 8 Old 09-11-2019, 08:11 PM
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Not sure if this helps, but I use a NAPA 3246 on my 97 F250 with manual hubs. Cheers!

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post #4 of 8 Old 09-11-2019, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Feeley View Post
Not sure if this helps, but I use a NAPA 3246 on my 97 F250 with manual hubs. Cheers!
I think the '97 is different but just for grins could you measure the inside diameter of your tool? The one I need is 2 5/16" ID
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post #5 of 8 Old 09-11-2019, 08:39 PM
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I got one from Advance for my boy's 91 F350, should be the same, 2 1/2"
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...archTerm=w1273

You set the bearing preload, (tighten then loosen a bit, put the lock washer on so the pin goes into one of the holes, then torque the outer lock nut to 150 ft lbs.
Don't use an impact, use a breaker bar to get it off and a torque wrench to install it.

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post #6 of 8 Old 09-12-2019, 12:03 PM
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I will try and remember to get dimensions when I get home tonight (it's in my truck's toolbox). Mine doesn't go "over" the nut (like the one Sparky referenced). The 4 tabs go into the nut slots. If you can find one that does go over the nut and engage the tabs, that would be better than the one I use. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.

Last edited by Patrick Feeley; 09-12-2019 at 12:07 PM.
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post #7 of 8 Old 09-12-2019, 02:59 PM
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Sorry was thinking of a different axle

I made my tool by welding key stock pieces on the outside of a pipe coupler

The NAPA or Advance tool mentioned earlier should work for you

In my defense, I was unsupervised
.
2006 F250 Lariat FX4 cclb
Torque Pro and OBDLink MX bluetooth monitor
General note:
For all those wanting a premium silicone sealer Kubota 70000-73764 is the best your gonna find. This is a hybrid gray silicone that uses solvent rather than acid to start the curing reaction, this makes it safe for aluminum and and any surface that involves coolant.
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post #8 of 8 Old 09-12-2019, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Got the 2 1/2" model from CarQuest and it worked fine. That measurement is the outside diameter of the nut.
Thanks everyone for your help. I got more valuable information from you all on the forum than from the Ford Dealer and a specialty tool company online (they never even bothered to respond to me).
Your help is most appreciated.
Cheers
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