Clutch won't disengage. No pedal travel. - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-08-2019, 10:45 PM
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Hmmm.... What happens if you push the slave rod in when the pedal is on the floor? Does the master push rod come out/pedal come up? This is very bizarre. If you take the prebled set and push the two rods back and forth, does it do anything at all?

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post #12 of 15 Old 09-09-2019, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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One thing that I had not mentioned was that the truck wouldn't start when the clutch first refused to disengage. I got to thinking about that and figured either the safety switch went bad or the push rod wasn't pushing in far enough to engage the safety switch. So today I removed the safety switch and manually compressed it while turning the key. The truck fired up. So now I'm thinking that for some reason the push rod isn't going in far enough even though the pedal is all the way down and against the rubber stop. I double checked the length of my push rod with the Heim joint on it and the one that came with the new MC and they are the same.
Is it possible for the arm that the MC push rod attaches to to have rotated on the pedal box shaft? I checked the nut at that end of the shaft and it was a little loose. I was able to tighten it maybe a quarter to half turn. Can I loosen that arm and rotate it back to where it's supposed to be and not have to remove the whole pedal box? Or should I just replace the whole pedal box.


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post #13 of 15 Old 09-10-2019, 11:36 AM
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The arm where the oit attaches to the pedal box mainshaft is splined (the splines grooves almost get cut when the shaft is tightened down). Possibly the shaft splines or arm are damaged? They shouldn't be loose at all as you really have to pry the arm off in it's normal state. Cheers!
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-10-2019, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Feeley View Post
The arm where the oit attaches to the pedal box mainshaft is splined (the splines grooves almost get cut when the shaft is tightened down). Possibly the shaft splines or arm are damaged? They shouldn't be loose at all as you really have to pry the arm off in it's normal state. Cheers!
That did it! I repositioned the control lever arm and now everything works great. Simple solution that was hard to find. Thanks for the help everybody. Obviously the nut on the bushing arm was loose enough to allow the control lever to slip. It's all tight now but I'm wondering if I should replace the pedal box and control lever to ensure that it doesn't happen again.


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post #15 of 15 Old 09-10-2019, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pope23 View Post
That did it! I repositioned the control lever arm and now everything works great. Simple solution that was hard to find. Thanks for the help everybody. Obviously the nut on the bushing arm was loose enough to allow the control lever to slip. It's all tight now but I'm wondering if I should replace the pedal box and control lever to ensure that it doesn't happen again.
Glad you figured it out! I didn't think of the pedal itself being the point of failure haha. Like Patrick mentioned, the pedal box shaft "cuts" splines in the pedal arm when you tighten it down, so crank it down good. Sometimes the hole in the pedal can get hogged out from it loosening up and wiggling around, like it did here. If that happens, you'll have to order a new pedal so fresh splines can be cut. You want to install the pedal with as much "slack" or free play taken out of the system as possible. More than a few ZF5s have fallen victim to not enough clutch fork travel and lack of full clutch disengagement due to worn bushings and the like, that results in worn out syncros, mine included. Thanks previous owner... Seems Ford designed the clutch with very little room for error.

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