7.3 IDI wont shut off - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
7.3L IDI (Non-Powerstroke) Diesels Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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post #1 of 14 Old 01-06-2014, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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7.3 IDI wont shut off

So my dad has a 90 7.3 IDI. He recently replacement the injection pump with a new one. Well ever since he did that the truck will not shut off when you turn off the key. You have to put it in 4th and kill the engine. We've messed around with the wiring and timing on the pump and nothing is helping. Any thoughts?

Luke

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post #2 of 14 Old 01-07-2014, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CILcoalroller6.4 View Post
So my dad has a 90 7.3 IDI. He recently replacement the injection pump with a new one. Well ever since he did that the truck will not shut off when you turn off the key. You have to put it in 4th and kill the engine. We've messed around with the wiring and timing on the pump and nothing is helping. Any thoughts?
So, when you turn your key off in the truck, it sends an electrical signal to the injection pump telling it to stop pumping. So you have one of a few issues. Your ignition switch is bad, there is a interruption from the ignition switch to the pump, or the pump itself has a defect. All these pumps are rebuilt so its possible it may have a defect that was never fixed during the rebuild. I would look into the ignition switch, they are easy and cheap to replace, if thats not it i would check the wiring for the turn-off portion. If all that looks good, it only leaves one thing, the pump. Hopes this helps!

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post #3 of 14 Old 01-07-2014, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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I imagine its the wiring going from the ignition to pump. It's just weird how it starts and runs normal but won't shut off. The truck didn't run for a couple years and mice tore the wiring to s***. Example: high beams don't shut off, theres no more radio wiring harness, etc. Since we switched all the wires around several time we figured it was either completely gelled and jelly-like fuel (which was found in both tanks) got into the pump, or the wiring. Just going to live with the issue. Thanks for the reply.

Luke

97 F250 CCSB 4 inch straight pipe, 6637 intake, TS 6 pos (daily)

08 F350 6.4 Reg Cab flatbed Spartan tuned, AFE Intake, DPF/DOC Delete(work truck)

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post #4 of 14 Old 01-07-2014, 06:15 PM
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Thats a bummer, darn mice. Atleast you have an idea though.


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Brandon

2005 F350 6.0L
100% Stock

1988 F250 7.3 IDI
ZF 5 Speed Swap, 4x4
Hypermax Turbo Kit (Cant wait to get a better kit)
R&D IDI Fuel Lift System W/ Billet Return Rails
4" MBRP Turbo Back Exhaust
Diesel Site Coolant Filtration System


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post #5 of 14 Old 01-25-2014, 04:32 PM
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is the wire hot all the time? don't you have to remove power to shut it off? my guess is either something wrong in the pump or a short to power on the circuit...

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post #6 of 14 Old 01-25-2014, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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That's something I need to check.. It has to be wiring. When it warms up I'm going to work on it more and probably run all new wires to it. Thanks for the reply man

Luke

97 F250 CCSB 4 inch straight pipe, 6637 intake, TS 6 pos (daily)

08 F350 6.4 Reg Cab flatbed Spartan tuned, AFE Intake, DPF/DOC Delete(work truck)

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post #7 of 14 Old 01-25-2014, 04:48 PM
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I can pull wiring diagrams at work so if you get into it and cant figure out what goes where feel free to pm me and ill try to print off what you need

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post #8 of 14 Old 01-26-2014, 07:20 PM
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There are two plugs that go into the injection pump on the right facing the engine compartment. One of them (I think the back one) goes to the fuel solenoid. That's the one that when energized lets the engine run. When you turn the key off, the power is cut and a spring retracts it and the mechanical link reduces fueling to zero. If you pull the plug and it continues to run, the solenoid is stuck ($100 part I think). If it dies when you pull the plug, it's probably a bad ignition switch, which is common, cheap and easy to fix.
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post #9 of 14 Old 01-26-2014, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input, that will be the first thing I check since its the cheapest. This truck was an Ameren dump truck and only has 30,000 original miles so it is a gem. It just sucks that freakin mice are chewing everything out.

Luke

97 F250 CCSB 4 inch straight pipe, 6637 intake, TS 6 pos (daily)

08 F350 6.4 Reg Cab flatbed Spartan tuned, AFE Intake, DPF/DOC Delete(work truck)

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post #10 of 14 Old 02-23-2014, 03:49 PM
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My money is on this fix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by totalloser View Post
There are two plugs that go into the injection pump on the right facing the engine compartment. One of them (I think the back one) goes to the fuel solenoid. That's the one that when energized lets the engine run. When you turn the key off, the power is cut and a spring retracts it and the mechanical link reduces fueling to zero. If you pull the plug and it continues to run, the solenoid is stuck ($100 part I think). If it dies when you pull the plug, it's probably a bad ignition switch, which is common, cheap and easy to fix.
I had this same issue only it shut of going down the road and would not start. Once I replaced the shut of solenoid everything was fine. Just be very careful when you replace it because it is in the governor system. You might want to start it the first time with the air cleaner off and a board ready to cover it to stop it in case you get the solenoid in wrong because it may want to "run-a-way" and the only way to stop/shut it down is to smother it by blocking off the air to the engine.

Good luck sorry I can't seem to find the video I had showing just how to replace it.
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