94 7.3L IDI will not start - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
7.3L IDI (Non-Powerstroke) Diesels Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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post #11 of 21 Old 08-09-2008, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Replaced the FSS, put everything back together and VROOOOM! Checking now for any leaks. Will let her sit over night and see what happens tomorrow.
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post #12 of 21 Old 08-09-2008, 08:48 PM
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Sweet! Glad to hear it's running again!
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post #13 of 21 Old 08-15-2008, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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No start! Checked for air leaks and did not find any, removed the top cover from the IP, when the solenoid clicks in (run position) the metering valve will not open unless you apply full throttle. Then it opens verry slowly, so then I assembled everything turned the key and pushed the pedal all the way down waited 15 sec. and It started at full throttle, when I took my foot off the gas it died. I started her again this time I eased the RPMs down and the ol 7.3 idled right down. Starts everytime like this, But is the slow metering valve going to cause further problems, is there something I can do to speed up or free up the valve?
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post #14 of 21 Old 08-15-2008, 03:17 PM
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If the metering valve is sticking it needs to come apart and get cleaned and a new metering valve. At this point you are looking at a complete overhaul. If it's sticky as you describe it will die all the time if you back out of the throttle because it cuts the fuel back and once the rpm comes down to idle it can't react fast enough before it dies. If it sticks wide open then the engine could run away.
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post #15 of 21 Old 08-17-2008, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Every time I start it I have to push the pedal to the floor, then ease off the throttle until it hits the high idle solenoid (unless the engine is hot)and then everything seems ok.
I do not know the insides of the IP I am assuming that the metering valve is the one under the govenor cover that the shut off solenoid closes to shut fuel off to the engine, Driving test, the truck has a 5 speed manual trans. accelerates fine, no smoke, if driving and i depress the clutch she dies! If you take your foot off the pedal and let her slow down then depress clutch everything is ok. I have no idea what is going on here!
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post #16 of 21 Old 08-18-2008, 09:57 PM
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The metering valve is the valve toward the rear of the pump under the top cover. It's arm sits perpendicular to the truck. There is an arm that runs to the front of the pump to the governor which is what the shut off solenoid pushes to close the metering valve. If the metering valve gets sticky what happens is you let off the throttle and the governor closes the valve. Normally once the rpms reach low idle it will open the valve back up but because it's sticky it doesn't open fast enough and it kills the engine. Only way to get the metering valve out is to take the face cam and drive shaft out. To do this you have to recalibrate the pump to get the face cam back in the proper position. You need to replace the metering valve and/or lap it in so that it has smooth operation so you need to disassemble the pump so that you can do this and be able to clean the lapping compound out of the pump before reassembly. Or live with it dieing all the time. If you get lucky as it moves back and forth it might start to free up. But if there is some rust or something in there from it sitting for a long time it could just get worse.
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post #17 of 21 Old 08-20-2008, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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If I rev her up to 1500- 2000 rpm and let off the gas pedal the rpm will just drop to 0 and she dies. I turned up the idle screw now idleing at about 800 rpm (just by the dash gauge) now when 1500 rpm or more there is a 50/50 chance she will still run, but she drops below idle speed, shudders, almost stalls then recovers to idle speed. If the air conditioner is on she stalls 80% of the time. I have heard about filling your filter with ATF before so I will get some and try that next.
well I might need a new Injector Pump, but not TODAY! I filled the filter with ATF started her turned her off and let it sit with the pump full of ATF. started again with no problems, took her on a drive, no stalling even with the AC on. When I had taken the govenor cover off to replace the FSS solenoid there was a little rust in the IP, and also in the bottom of fuel filter/water seperator (i guess my idiot light for water in fuel dosen't work). Now i will throw a bottle of diesel conditioner in each tank and hopefully burn up that water.
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post #18 of 21 Old 08-21-2008, 05:19 PM
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Good luck with it. It may fix it for awhile or it may come back once the ATF is flushed through.
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post #19 of 21 Old 08-22-2008, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Yes! I hope it fixes it for a while, preferably a long while. I know I still need a IP rebuild or a new one but hopefully this quick fix will last. Thanks All!!!
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post #20 of 21 Old 08-25-2008, 08:32 PM
 
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their is a switch on the left side of the injector pump with i think two wires on top that is the safety switch that shuts off fire to the injection pump even if it has fuel pressure it will not start without that functioning check for a loose connection good luck
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