Heavy_GD...yeah his web site is not his specialty. I called him and he was very helpful and knowledgeable . You can see a pic on his facebook page and I believe on his thread in the Vendor section. Real nice work for sure. He makes a sweet Intake also!! Real nice price for polished right now. Send him a PM

Reviving the dead thread for the sake of anyone new to the 6.7 ...



TL;DR: I had other oil leak/ smell issues that got fixed in the process of rerouting the CCV.
Write up is sectioned off at the end.

Backstory is, I bought a 2011(first half) used F-250, bone stock. A week later I got the P0401, and rectified it with a full delete.

The first real drive I did with it was from the Canadian border (about 3 hours north of Seattle) down to Texas. About the time we hit Idaho, I noticed that there was a strong smell of oil coming in the cab. Being new to diesel trucks, I wasn't sure if it was normal or not, so I got out and inspected everything. The most noticable oil spot was on the drain plug(of the "industry changing" composite oil pan). I changed that out for the metal pan as soon as we got to the farm in Texas.

I noticed that it solved most of the smell issue, so I didn't worry anymore.

When I got back to Washington and parked in my driveway, I began to notice a small oil spot under the front axle. Researched it, found oil in the valley, changed the Turbo oil inlet and cooler lines.

Problem solved for a little bit.

I deployed for 6 months and came back to a near perfect outline in the shape of my front axle in my driveway(wife is a space cadet and never noticed).
It was only a quart low, and any time I would fill it, it would always drain down to 1 quart low. Researched it, found out it was the Vacuum pump gasket. Swapped it out and didn't have any noticable oil loss for the next 4 months.

About 2 weeks ago, the conditions were perfect and all of a sudden the oil smell was back in the cabin. I did a thorough inspection and noticed that there were two streaks of oil coming down the driver's side of the engine.

Researched it, and the only thing it could be was the CCV. Found the bare bones kit from Rudy's diesel in Amazon for about $140.

I got in in the mail today and went to work.

Sorry for the long preface, but here is the write up and some insight on the reroute.

∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆ Write up ∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆
This mod is real easy. If you can safely rotate your tires, you can do this in about 2 hours.

I tried to use the Chilton manual, but it said take it apart... No ****.

You'll need an 11 or 12mm for the charge pipe clamp.
You only need to take off the side that hooks to the intercooler.

Pull the fuel lines from the filter and tuck them out of the way.

You need a 7mm to loosen the clamp on the filter. Pull it out and set it aside.

Disconnect the ****ty corrugated "piping" from the CCV box and the intake.
(Just twist and pull until it comes off)

You have to take out the two bolts holding the fuel lines/ fuel to injector lines. These require an 8mm.

Now the only thing left( at least for an early 2011 6.7) is to take out the box.
There are three 8mm bolts on the outboard side, one or two 8mm bolts on the inboard side, and maybe a 10 mm on the inboard side as well.

Once you get all of the bolts off, you'll be able to just wiggle the box out of the engine bay.

When the box was out, I inspected the ports. The outlet was pretty clean, nothing if interest. The inlet though... The entire port was filled with sludged oil that never had any chance if getting out due to the poor design of how the vent portion of the box didn't actually meet up with the interior portion of the port.

Once I cleaned that out, it was ready for the install.

For the install, it is 3 fasteners using an Allen head (not sure on the size, 3rd biggest in my Craftsman set).

The big plug goes on the big hole. One fastener.
The 90°elbow goes in the metal piece with 2 holes. Tighten it as much as you can without it interfering with the bolts holes.
Connect the hose and tighten the hose clamp, then run the hose however works for you.
Install the 2 fasteners to secure your new CCV reroute.

Install the cap on hole where the old CCV hose connected to the intake.

Put it all back together in reverse order and you're done!


in my case, the entire box was disposable, with no filter inside. I found the solution to 3 different issues with this.
One- the back of the box had blown out around where the two plastic pieces are joined. This was causing the oil smell in the cabin.
Two- both of the streaks of oil lined up perfectly with the inlet and outlet port of the box.
Three- the intermittent"valve chatter" noise is gone. (Maybe not a full fix yet, but my thought is that since the hole was fairly large and I'm paranoid about the sounds the engine makes, I was hearing some of the exhaust stroke resonate through the hole)

I would definitely recommend a longer hose that exits somewhere near the exhaust(for those in states that are hard on emissions)

If there is any oil coming out and condensing, it is negligible.

**** what the fat bald dude on YouTube says about it destroying your engine. He's the Alex Jones of diesel videos.

I noticed my EGT was between 50-90° lower.

The disposable box or the replacement filter is about half the cost of the kit, so it's not really an absurd price for the longevity aspect.

Feel free to PM me with any questions about this or any of the other fixes mentioned in the novel above!

I'm not deleted yet on my DPF system. My understanding is I can do the EGR when I get rid of the DPF.

Can I do this CCV delete as a stand-alone mod?

Tom

The EGR and DPF go hand in hand.

The reason being;
If you delete just the EGR but keep the DPF installed all of the "extra" exhaust gas/ soot will clog the the filter.

If you have the disposable box, you should be able to do it as a stand alone, as there are no sensors for it.

I'm not 100% sure when when they started putting the new assembly with the replaceable filter and a MIL sensor. At a minimum, if you have a 2014 - present, it should have the new style.

If that is the case, you can still pull it and do it as a stand alone mod, but you'll have to live with a check engine light until you delete the rest.

If you go that route, once you get your tuner, make sure to let whoever is supplying the tuner/ tunes that you did the CCV mod and need the script written to shut off that CEL as well.

Another good kit is AM Diesel Performance out of Canada. I have their Intake plentum, CCV and Egr plates. Everything they make is too notch.

Edited for misspelling

Please school me on the boxes you refer to. I am guessing you are talking about the air filter assembly box?

I did pull the lid and checked the filter and it was clean so I just clipped it back on. I noticed there was another type of filter that was smaller than the traditional air filter. I didn't take the time to study the direction of air flow or how the system worked.

Educate me on this please.

Tom

For those of you that have the NOLIMIT CCV kit, do you need the VENTURI or the BAFFLE to go with the kit?

I never got one with the kit, never noticed a real need to use one, never figured a good reason to use one, got one cause I thought I needed one, never installed one. 143k.......pulls like a train, runs even better.

Thanks, then I wont get ONE.. LOL