EGR block off plates images and description - Page 12 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.7 Performance Parts Discussion (2011-2016) 6.7 Performance Parts Discussion

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post #111 of 148 Old 07-01-2017, 05:01 PM
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I'm going to vent it into the exhaust. You weld on a bung at 45 degree angle with the flow and it creates a small amount of suction. I was told the best place to weld it is between mid and rear of the cab (still hot and enough suction)
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post #112 of 148 Old 07-01-2017, 05:19 PM
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The sticky? I read it but there's a lot it doesn't say.. that's why I ended up calling no limit- but I ran into problems and they are closed today. It's my own fault. I'll probably just end up installing the new exhaust and the Venturi for the ccv, and wait till I can talk to them Monday.
Yeah, that's the one. I only suggested it since it appears you've torn into your truck quite a bit BEFORE loading your delete tunes and making sure there are no hiccups with that. If you do all the hardware stuff, but the software stuff goes screwy you're stuck with one very large, very expensive lawn ornament.

So you're stuck ong the EGR delete then? What specifically? ...forgive me if I missed it previously.

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post #113 of 148 Old 07-01-2017, 06:01 PM
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Hah no, I saw that and did load the tune before I started tearing stuff out. It took the tune, started and ran fine without throwing any codes. I installed the new intercooler line and removed the throttle valve. Then moved to the egr and had the issues removing the manifold side studs. I decided to start the truck to warm up the bolts, that's when it threw a code for the intercooler throttle valve. I thought maybe it could be because I had it removed and not the egr?

The questions I had were whether I could drive it like that if I can't get those studs out.

Also-with the tune, I definitely have to remove the def system correct? I thought that's what I read but wasn't sure... So I continued pulling off the exhaust so I can install the new pipe.

Am I in trouble?
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post #114 of 148 Old 07-01-2017, 06:11 PM
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Hah no, I saw that and did load the tune before I started tearing stuff out. It took the tune, started and ran fine without throwing any codes. I installed the new intercooler line and removed the throttle valve. Then moved to the egr and had the issues removing the manifold side studs. I decided to start the truck to warm up the bolts, that's when it threw a code for the intercooler throttle valve. I thought maybe it could be because I had it removed and not the egr?

The questions I had were whether I could drive it like that if I can't get those studs out.

Also-with the tune, I definitely have to remove the def system correct? I thought that's what I read but wasn't sure... So I continued pulling off the exhaust so I can install the new pipe.

Am I in trouble?
Ah, good man.

No, the throttle body code is completely independent of the EGR. Once you program the EGR out and unplug the wire harnesses you're good to go and can finish the whole delete at a (not too) later time.

Not all, very few actually, tunes are set up to delete that butterfly valve. I can't speak for the SCT, not familiar with that tuner, but I think it's safe to say if you're running the tunes that came preloaded it's not gonna support the valve removal.

Yes, you have to remove the DEF and the CAT from the exhaust after tuning. The DEF fluid tank and associated junk can stay installed.

As far as driving it goes, with that code you're probably gonna run into all kinds of issues, and from what I understand you have some of the EGR stuff out but not all, so I wouldn't drive around with a half removed EGR.

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post #115 of 148 Old 07-01-2017, 07:11 PM
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That things heavy...
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post #116 of 148 Old 07-01-2017, 10:53 PM
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I got the exhaust all welded up and ready to install. Couple images of the CCV re-route into the exhaust.
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post #117 of 148 Old 07-03-2017, 12:51 PM
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Still cant get the EGR pipes off.. those two bolts on the manifold are terrible. I guess im going to keep soaking it with PB blaster and driving it.. hope the heat cycles and penetrating fluid breaks them loose...
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post #118 of 148 Old 07-03-2017, 02:01 PM
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Still cant get the EGR pipes off.. those two bolts on the manifold are terrible. I guess im going to keep soaking it with PB blaster and driving it.. hope the heat cycles and penetrating fluid breaks them loose...
Kroil is where it's at, man. Hit em up twice a day for like a week, once before you drive it and then again right after.

Get them loose just a quarter turn, then hit them with kroil again and let em soak for a couple more hours before you tackle the removal.



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post #119 of 148 Old 07-03-2017, 07:01 PM
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Ordered some! Thanks!
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post #120 of 148 Old 07-05-2017, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ElkSlayer View Post
Kroil is where it's at, man. Hit em up twice a day for like a week, once before you drive it and then again right after.

Get them loose just a quarter turn, then hit them with kroil again and let em soak for a couple more hours before you tackle the removal.



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Kroil is the best penetrating oil know the man kind.
That two bolts are tough.
I went out and bought a 6 point socket after soaking in kroil.
Propane torch and they both snapped free.
Truck had 90K miles.
Took some work, but if you take your time and use all methods it will save you even more work.

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