Nothing but problems changing fuel filters - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.7 Performance Parts Discussion (2011-2016) 6.7 Performance Parts Discussion

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post #1 of 34 Old 01-03-2020, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Nothing but problems changing fuel filters

I know how to turn a wrench. I have been doing it for years. Everytime I change the frame mount fuel filter I break the housing or get a air leak. I oil the o rings and threads. Still air leaks over tighten and break housing. Do they make a aftermarket set up with spin on filter? This is stupid.. the easiest job and it #$%k* me. I want something with more vol/press. I am going with..
https://www.warrendiesel.com/product...injection-pump

2011 F-350 CCSB 4*4. Mini max and tool box. Egr /def delete

2003 dodge 3500 CCSB 4*4. 10mm stroker pump, 150hp injectors, 103# valve springs, 66/74/14 agp turbo, built trans, smarty tnt-r tunning

2003 mustang cobra 499hp 490tq ported stock blower 35k original miles

1968 bug back half l, full cage, 300hp wrx powered, project car...

Is300 2jzge turbo 350 six speed

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post #2 of 34 Old 01-03-2020, 03:51 PM
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They're (ORM housing) real finicky and have to be threaded on dead even. You also need to clean the threads off with brake cleaner really well, inside the housing and outside. You can always buy and AirDog or a FASS system to replace it. Not only are the filters much easier to replace, they're cheaper and it will eliminate the air bubbles in the fuel lines going to your HPFP providing more lubrication. This will also aid in providing lubricity to your CP4 (HPFP) which are known to destroy causing catastrophic damage to your entire fuel system due to lack of lubricity. If that happens, you're looking at about a $10k - $12k problem. Would also recommend you use a diesel additive with every fill-up, draining your water separator at least once a month, using Shell (or well known source) diesel only, and changing your fuel filters every oil change. Also, install a disaster prevention kit as soon as possible. I did all of those things mentioned earlier, minus the AirDog, and prevention kit, and had my HPFP go out costing me around $15k. After that happened, I learned of the CP4 issues with these trucks so I upgraded everything, added the additional things mentioned, and deleted the entire factory fuel system all together. My truck only had 52k miles on it at that time too. 2016 F350 and I take extremely good care of everything I own. Take it for what it's worth but do some research and make your own informed decision. If nothing else, add the prevention kit. That will save a ton of money when it does go out. Hope it helps and good luck!

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post #3 of 34 Old 01-03-2020, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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They're (ORM housing) real finicky and have to be threaded on dead even. You also need to clean the threads off with brake cleaner really well, inside the housing and outside. You can always buy and AirDog or a FASS system to replace it. Not only are the filters much easier to replace, they're cheaper and it will eliminate the air bubbles in the fuel lines going to your HPFP providing more lubrication. This will also aid in providing lubricity to your CP4 (HPFP) which are known to destroy causing catastrophic damage to your entire fuel system due to lack of lubricity. If that happens, you're looking at about a $10k - $12k problem. Would also recommend you use a diesel additive with every fill-up, draining your water separator at least once a month, using Shell (or well known source) diesel only, and changing your fuel filters every oil change. Also, install a disaster prevention kit as soon as possible. I did all of those things mentioned earlier, minus the AirDog, and prevention kit, and had my HPFP go out costing me around $15k. After that happened, I learned of the CP4 issues with these trucks so I upgraded everything, added the additional things mentioned, and deleted the entire factory fuel system all together. My truck only had 52k miles on it at that time too. 2016 F350 and I take extremely good care of everything I own. Take it for what it's worth but do some research and make your own informed decision. If nothing else, add the prevention kit. That will save a ton of money when it does go out. Hope it helps and good luck!

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So what happened was I did a EARLY fuel filter swap cause I did my oil EARLY. I installed a mag hytech oil pan. And wanted all fluids and filters on the same time line i change every 4k miles or 5 months. When i started the truck i had a buzz (like a bad electric motor) on the driver side fender. The under hood fuel filter was vibrating bad... my hands wouldn't stop it. (Wix filters) I got under the truck and re tightened the fuel housing and it cracked at the stop. Got new housing now truck wont stat p2291 code.

2011 F-350 CCSB 4*4. Mini max and tool box. Egr /def delete

2003 dodge 3500 CCSB 4*4. 10mm stroker pump, 150hp injectors, 103# valve springs, 66/74/14 agp turbo, built trans, smarty tnt-r tunning

2003 mustang cobra 499hp 490tq ported stock blower 35k original miles

1968 bug back half l, full cage, 300hp wrx powered, project car...

Is300 2jzge turbo 350 six speed
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post #4 of 34 Old 01-04-2020, 05:07 AM
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The noise you're hearing on the drivers side when you turn the key is the lift pump running. It is right where the frame fuel filter is located and the reason you're feeling the filter under the hood vibrate is due to the lift pump filling it up with fuel since you just changed them and they're now empty. Once you change your filters, you have to prime the truck before you start the engine. You need to turn they key on the on position (do not start), open the drivers door while you sit there and listen for that noise (lift pump working). Once it stops, turn the key off and repeat that cycle eight to 10 times letting everything fill back up with the diesel. If you can't hear the audible noise from your lift pump with the door open, which it sounds like you're having no issues, neal down by your frame mounted fuel filter and you will hear it and it will stop after several seconds. Also, make sure you get brake clean and clean all of the threads off really well as well as inside the filter housing before putting the o-ring and filter back on. Don't over tighten! Count how many times it take for your plug to go around on the housing and you'll know when it's tight. Also make sure it's not cross-threaded. They're easy to get off track

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post #5 of 34 Old 01-04-2020, 05:18 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by UR2EZ View Post
The noise you're hearing on the drivers side when you turn the key is the lift pump running. It is right where the frame fuel filter is located and the reason you're feeling the filter under the hood vibrate is due to the lift pump filling it up with fuel since you just changed them and they're now empty. Once you change your filters, you have to prime the truck before you start the engine. You need to turn they key on the on position (do not start), open the drivers door while you sit there and listen for that noise (lift pump working). Once it stops, turn the key off and repeat that cycle eight to 10 times letting everything fill back up with the diesel. If you can't hear the audible noise from your lift pump with the door open, which it sounds like you're having no issues, neal down by your frame mounted fuel filter and you will hear it and it will stop after several seconds. Also, make sure you get brake clean and clean all of the threads off really well as well as inside the filter housing before putting the o-ring and filter back on. Don't over tighten! Count how many times it take for your plug to go around on the housing and you'll know when it's tight. Also make sure it's not cross-threaded. They're easy to get off track

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the noise was after I drove it for 3 days... it started to piss me off so I took the housing off. That is when i saw the crack and got a new one... now it wont start.. well it did for a min or 2 then shut off

2011 F-350 CCSB 4*4. Mini max and tool box. Egr /def delete

2003 dodge 3500 CCSB 4*4. 10mm stroker pump, 150hp injectors, 103# valve springs, 66/74/14 agp turbo, built trans, smarty tnt-r tunning

2003 mustang cobra 499hp 490tq ported stock blower 35k original miles

1968 bug back half l, full cage, 300hp wrx powered, project car...

Is300 2jzge turbo 350 six speed
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post #6 of 34 Old 01-04-2020, 06:00 AM
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If it won't start after replacing the "cup", you probably didn't tighten it enough. Did you tighten the cup till the stops met? There is a stop on the upper housing and there is a stop on the cup. Then you cycle the key at least 6 times to fill cup and lines with fuel and purge the air out.
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post #7 of 34 Old 01-04-2020, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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If it won't start after replacing the "cup", you probably didn't tighten it enough. Did you tighten the cup till the stops met? There is a stop on the upper housing and there is a stop on the cup. Then you cycle the key at least 6 times to fill cup and lines with fuel and purge the air out.
at the stop. All o rings lightly lubed with wheel bearing grease and threads... LIGHTLY! Fuel comes out of filter under hood.... nothing to brag about.... MAYBE 2psi....I dont wanna modify this truck too hard. I sold my 800hp 03 cummins for 10k.. if I have to buy a new pump i want it better and bolt in

2011 F-350 CCSB 4*4. Mini max and tool box. Egr /def delete

2003 dodge 3500 CCSB 4*4. 10mm stroker pump, 150hp injectors, 103# valve springs, 66/74/14 agp turbo, built trans, smarty tnt-r tunning

2003 mustang cobra 499hp 490tq ported stock blower 35k original miles

1968 bug back half l, full cage, 300hp wrx powered, project car...

Is300 2jzge turbo 350 six speed

Last edited by AZsilver03cobra; 01-04-2020 at 02:28 PM.
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post #8 of 34 Old 01-04-2020, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Ordered a new fuel pump and filter housing.. getting it tomorrow at 11am AZ time.. took my 6 month old batteries in and got new ones.. I have been using power service (gray or silver idk I'm color blind) bottle every other fill. Never let the tank go below 1/2... will update tomorrow
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post #9 of 34 Old 01-05-2020, 05:14 AM
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I had to use a strap wrench to help prevent from snapping off that lower socket point. It's a PITA to do the fuel filters for sure.
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post #10 of 34 Old 01-05-2020, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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I did socket and strap at the same time to keep the stress even
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