Busted Bolts on EGR Long Pipe - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.7 Performance Parts Discussion (2011-2016) 6.7 Performance Parts Discussion

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post #11 of 55 Old 03-27-2017, 10:58 AM
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They say "tighten hardware" because they know 15 min. after you start it they will be welded in place!
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post #12 of 55 Old 03-27-2017, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctorsmack03 View Post
Kaya-
Would you recommend using any thread locker, etc or just straight bolt torque? Anybody know what lb/ft to torque these bolts to? The instructions say "tighten the hardware." No kidding!
oh yea slather them in never seize compound.
they're probably about 8-10ft/lbs maybe. not sure exactly. nothing crazy. just a good snugging.

edit: just checked and they're 89 in/lb, then 45 degrees.
so probably in the area of 10 ft/lb.
a good snugging

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post #13 of 55 Old 03-27-2017, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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I was able to tap about 5 clean threads into the ugly hole. I installed the factory bolts back in place with the gasket and torqued to 15lb/ft. I kind of wanted to over torque them just in case they weren't very well tapped. I figured it would be better to strip them now while it was all apart, but since everything seemed to hold okay, I'm not too concerned. I will definitely be checking it weekly for the next few months just in case. So I finished cleaning up wires and reinstalling the manifolds, air intake and the exhaust.

All in all, this wasn't a terrible project but there were definitely times that I stepped away to beat the punching bag. I would say that the lesson here is be patient and methodical. Do not just follow the basic BS directions that the deletsters provide. It is amazing how simply they put everything. There is no mention of PB blaster or remove the bolts while hot, etc. Just a 1-25 listing of steps like "remove bolts," "drain radiator" or "reinstall Intake components." No torque ratings for any of the parts, just tighten.

Thanks for the help and just listening. Venting frustrations is always a good thing.
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post #14 of 55 Old 04-02-2017, 09:34 PM
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oh yea slather them in never seize compound.
1000% THIS.

I've had my delete plates on for the last 50K+ miles and have pulled those bolts numerous times and they slide right out now. but like we said before, crack 'em loose on a hot motor and lay on the PB Blaster
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post #15 of 55 Old 08-08-2017, 04:21 AM
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I have two broken bolts now.. my plan of action is different than everyone else I've read about. I'm going to weld new bolts to the flange and just put some nuts on it and call it a day. Why bother drilling or welding and trying to unbolt the nut. A mobile welder will come weld this for about $100 and I'll be on the road within an hour of starting.
Anyone see why this wouldnt work? I'm basically turning the bolt holes into studs. I'd weld it myself but we just moved and I don't have 220 in the garage yet..
If the flange is cast iron I might be boned here.. however, a professional welder might be able to make this work. If I were doing it myself I would just keep adding layers to the existing bolt until I had enough to weld the new threaded section on. So I'd avoid welding to the iron if I could.

Last edited by MightyMouse75; 08-08-2017 at 04:44 AM.
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post #16 of 55 Old 08-08-2017, 08:58 AM
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Yes that's a very good idea! Use 8mm studs instead of 6mm (like they should have done in the first place).
Unfortunately, it is cast iron tho.
Let us know how this works out!
Did you run the vehicle for a few minutes just prior to get the manifold hot? That is paramount. And don't take them all the way out hot. Just a couple turns, then spray the hell out of them with a good penetrant. Let it cool while you work on the rest of removal. Have never had an issue with this method. And I've probably dinner somewhere between 50-100 coolers. Maybe more lol. Don't really keep track
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post #17 of 55 Old 08-08-2017, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaya View Post
Yes that's a very good idea! Use 8mm studs instead of 6mm (like they should have done in the first place).
Unfortunately, it is cast iron tho.
Let us know how this works out!
Did you run the vehicle for a few minutes just prior to get the manifold hot? That is paramount. And don't take them all the way out hot. Just a couple turns, then spray the hell out of them with a good penetrant. Let it cool while you work on the rest of removal. Have never had an issue with this method. And I've probably dinner somewhere between 50-100 coolers. Maybe more lol. Don't really keep track
I'm so glad I found this thread and this post specifically. I'm tackling this same project Friday morning and I've got somewhere to be on Saturday morning with a trailer. I'm impatient, so I don't want to wait until Saturday afternoon lol. I started on the PB Blaster yesterday morning, so I'm hoping that it's fairly smooth.
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post #18 of 55 Old 08-08-2017, 12:16 PM
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Not everyone has problems. I'm happy to report my removal was way easier than expected. I sprayed with PB blaster a couple of times the week prior. Before I even warmed the motor up I figured I'd just test them a little and see if they would budge. A little pressure and they were loose, spun them out by hand.
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post #19 of 55 Old 08-08-2017, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopeless Diamond View Post
Not everyone has problems. I'm happy to report my removal was way easier than expected. I sprayed with PB blaster a couple of times the week prior. Before I even warmed the motor up I figured I'd just test them a little and see if they would budge. A little pressure and they were loose, spun them out by hand.
What year and how many miles?

Mine is 2013 with 100k miles. I'm not expecting this to go too easy for me.
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post #20 of 55 Old 08-08-2017, 12:39 PM
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Forgot to add that, 2012 - ~87k

Plan for the worst, hope for the best and be surprised
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