2011 F250 6.7 Replaced Cooler Twice, Oil Temp Still High - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.7 Motor Problems (2011-2016) 6.7 Motor Problems

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post #1 of 23 Old 02-08-2016, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Question 2011 F250 6.7 Replaced Cooler Twice, Oil Temp Still High

Hi everyone!

I use this site all the time but don't often post. I'm searching for some answers to our problem child... a 2011 F250 XL that we use in our remodeling business and for trips on weekends.

Sorry in advance for the long story!

We purchased the truck used last year. It's a fairly bare-bones crew cab previously owned by an oil company. It was used in Pennsylvania its entire life and had excellent maintenance records with it. The truck has 133k miles, but over 7,500 hours. It spent a lot of time idling on the sites, I guess. I didn't check the hour meter before I'd bought the truck... hindsight is 20:20. [smacks forehead]

Anyway... here's the problem. On one of our first trips pulling a 10k camper at 65mph, the engine seemed to start cutting back. Ambient temp was around 85* with A/C running full blast. We used a cheap O'Reilly Bosch CEL scanner and determined the oil temp was 255*. (I have the basic message center, so couldn't track oil temp via the dash.) There were no CELs or warning lights of any kind.

We slowed down a bit and once the oil dropped below around 250* the power came back. I think it was defueling on me. Coolant temp was 192* and never exceeded 194* at any point in the trip. Never heard the fan kick in either.

The whole trip went this way. I made myself pull over and idle awhile each time it exceeded 240*, so we didn't blow anything. At the time, I did not have a tuner or gauges in the truck.

Given my prodigious experience with 6.0s (due to our other work truck. ), I immediately assumed a plugged cooler and was also told by a dealership mechanic that that would solve the problem. We replaced the oil cooler and coolant once we got back from the trip.

We had planned a DPF delete, pyro, and tuner, so we did that as well. We replaced the oil temp sensor too, just for good measure.

However, the temps still crept north of 240* easily, whenever we pulled. And it didn't take much weight either. I was told by my cousin (a diesel tech professor at a community college) that the new cooler may be plugged from old debris in the system, so flush and replace again...

So... we just got it back from the dealership with a flush, new coolant, and new cooler. But still, even at ambient temps in the 20s, we get oil temps 240+ without working the truck too hard. And that's right after a fresh flush and fill!

The Symptoms
The oil temp and coolant temp read the same when it's started cold after sitting overnight. Once started and driving, the temps rise slowly together, with the oil staying a couple degrees ahead of the coolant. Once the coolant reaches full temperature, the oil keeps on rising till we either back off or the motor defuels. This takes around a half hour of steady driving. (FYI: We pull trailers strictly on the "stock" tuner setting, and NEVER use the higher ones when we have a load.)

The Truck
- 2011 F250 6.7L
- Built 12/10 (I think)
-133K miles
-7.5k hours (spent WAY too much time idling while out on refinery/drilling sites, apparently)
-10W-30 Motorcraft Oil
-Ford Orange coolant
-Replaced EGR Cooler Core (plugged due to the excessive idle time)

The Extras
H&S MiniMaxx Tuner, Pyro, DPF Delete, EGR cooler & ducting is intact but disabled

I heard on a forum somewhere that these things have a "restrictor" in the upper oil pan that can dislodge and block oil flow to the cooler, but no mechanic I talked to has ever heard of that. I've also heard about faulty water pumps or front covers, but the engine itself seems to stay very cool. Any thoughts are appreciated!

HELP!
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post #2 of 23 Old 02-08-2016, 12:03 PM
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Your engine it could be loaded with oil sludge. This may prevent oil from even getting to the cooler. If I were you I would change oil again using a high quality full synthetic diesel oil. Also add a 16oz. bottle of Archoil AR9100 friction modifier. So 12.5 quarts of full synthetic oil and a 16 oz. bottle of AR9100, and new oil filter of course. The two together will eventually break down oil sludge. Plus AR9100 will bring down heat caused by friction. If you do this hopefully you'll see the oil temps gradually drop with time and driving. Just a thought.

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post #3 of 23 Old 02-08-2016, 01:31 PM
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I would monitor oil pressure... I don't know off hand what the oil pressure is supposed to be on a 6.7 but that can tell you a lot as far as any restrictions in the system. Obviously if something of causing an issue with oil pressure you could very well have some other motor damage as well.


But yes run a high quality full synthetic and the archoil can't hurt. But I wouldn't count on it fixing your issue.

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post #4 of 23 Old 02-08-2016, 01:56 PM
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wouldn't be a bad idea to confirm first that the temp is actually accurate. use a thermogun and when the temp is up at 240, shoot it at the eot sensor
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post #5 of 23 Old 02-08-2016, 02:39 PM
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If you still have the OEM coolant cap on it that may be faulty as well. Go to powerstrokehelp.com, click on "common PSD info..." and watch video entitled "5 dollar part that will save your engine". That will explain the cap issue. Basically your coolant will boil at a much lower temp than it is suppose to due to the OEM cap not having strong enough spring to hold pressure. Its 5 bucks at Advance Auto, worth a shot. Hope this helps you.
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post #6 of 23 Old 02-08-2016, 04:17 PM
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i don't think 6.7's came with the old cap. plus his coolant temp would be high as well and not just eot

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post #7 of 23 Old 02-08-2016, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaya View Post
i don't think 6.7's came with the old cap. plus his coolant temp would be high as well and not just eot
6.7's have a slightly bigger spring on the cap. I had mine checked with a pressure gauge and it would not hold pressure. My truck is 2012 with 108,000. I changed to the Advanced Auto cap instead of the OEM cap. Lower pressure I believe will make the coolant boil at lower temp thus the fan will never kick on.. I figure for 5 bucks its worth a try.

I hope the OP gets it fixed, these kinds of problems are the worst. The ones you can't find, that is.
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post #8 of 23 Old 02-10-2016, 05:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the ideas, guys!

I've been using synthetic and Archoil in it since we bought it, seems like cheap insurance for turbos, etc.

I may check that cap and see what it's doing, if anything. The coolant never gets over 194*, so there's no way it could be boiling I think.

I guess we'll keep plugging away. Leesfeed, you're right about these types of problems being the worst. Isolated, no one else has the same problem, mechanic tries the same things over and over again, leaves you with the bill... yeah.

Thanks again, everyone!
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post #9 of 23 Old 02-10-2016, 05:35 AM Thread Starter
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If we do figure something out, I will be sure to post it in case someone else has the same problem.
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post #10 of 23 Old 04-03-2016, 06:24 AM
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I'm having the same problem with my 2011 F350. I'm the original owner. Always use the synthetic oil recommended in the manual. Third time taking it to the dealership for repair. They have previously replaced the oil cooler and now say the only thing left to do is replace the upper oil pan. This will require either taking the cab off or dropping the transmission. The restricter isn't doing its job and is either missing or the wrong size. The dealership called the engineering hotline and they say that if it isn't a faulty cooler then it has to be the restricter.
The last time the engine temp reached the safety shutdown oil temp of 267 I got out and felt the cooler with my hand. It was barely warm to the touch which tells me there isn't any (or very little) oil flow through the cooler.
Just like your symptoms the water temp never got high enough to cause the fan to kick in on high.
I wish you luck and will try to remember to let you know if this works.
Fortunately I'm at 73k miles and am still under factory warranty.
Best of luck to you!
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