Join Date: Apr 2010
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Matt's Tech Files: Vacuum Pump Seal
Hey all, I recently (3 days ago) picked up my second 6.7 in the form of a 2014 F350 DRW Lariat. I've decided to post here each time I complete a repair or maintenance action to help out those who may have questions. First repair: vacuum pump seal.
I brought the truck home, moved my trusty ol' 6.0 out of the driveway and pulled this one in next to the '16. Mind you, my 6.0 has been parked in that spot for nearly two years, and not a drop of oil ever touched the driveway. Within 2 days of parking the DRW there, I had oil spots everywhere (annoying). So, a bit of googling and poking around with the flashlight, and I determined that the cause of the leak was the vacuum pump seal.
Part number: Ford BC3Z-2A572-A
Cost: $10-25 (depending on source). I paid $28 after tax at the dealership.
Job time: 1 to 2 hours.
1) Remove the intake.
- Flat screwdriver.
- 5/16" socket.
2) Release tension on the accessory belt. Note: the tensioner does not have a lock on it, so be quick.
- 3/8" drive ratchet. Longer breaker bar is recommended. Turn clockwise.
3) Remove accessory belt and tuck into an inconspicuous location, where oil will not come into contact.
4) UNPLUG the cooling fan pigtail. Unplug from the smaller of the connectors, closest to the block. The large one that is mounted on the fan assembly is a pain in the rear. Smaller one is much easier.
5) Remove 5 (five) 1/2" bolts securing the cooling fan. 4 are easy to access. The lower left is a bear. You will need an extentsion on your ratchet to reach beneath the belt tensioner.
6) Lift up on the cooling fan assembly and pull outward. It fits nicely inside the fan shroud, sitting forward against the radiator, out of the way.
7) Find your 5/16" socket again and loosen the 4 (four) bolts securing the vacuum pump. Odds are you won't even need a ratchet, as these things have a tendency to loosen up. Mine weren't even finger tight anymore.
8) Pull the vaccum pump straight out from the housing. Be careful not to turn the pump shaft, or you will get oil all over the place. Oil sits inside the pump behind the front cover.
9) Optional: Remove the vacuum hose by releasing tension on the clamp and pulling straight off. You may wish to do this if you'd like to clean up your vacuum pump. Be sure to reinstall the vacuum hose and clamp.
10) Remove the old gasket from the vacuum pump. Replace with a new gasket, being sure to center the bolt holes. Once centered, bend the 3 (three) tabs on the gasket around the lip on the pump to hold the gasket in place.
11) Optional: Clean the vacuum pump bolts thoroughly and apply LockTite to the threads.
12) Seat the vacuum pump in its housing. This may require some turning of the shaft if you moved it.
13) Finger tighten the 4 (four) vacuum pump bolts then torque to 89 inch pounds (7.4 foot pounds if you don't have an inch pound torque wrench).
14) Clean up any excess oil around the vacuum pump and from the nooks and crannies in the engine. Probably not a bad idea to clean up the belt pulleys as well.
15) Lift and position the cooling fan assembly, exercising caution not to damage the harness connector. Slide one of the top bolts through its hole ad finger tighten.
16) Insert and finger tighten the remaining bolts. Note: These should thread in easily by hand. If they don't, you may need to reposition the cooling fan assembly.
17) Torque the 5 (five) cooling fan bolts to 18 foot pounds.
18) Reconnect the pigtail so your cooling fan will actually work again.
19) Reroute your accessory belt. Exercise caution to ensure the belt seats properly on all pulleys.
20) Reinstall intake, securing 1 (one) 5/16" bolt on top and 2 (two) band clamps.
Should be good for another 75k miles (or more).