Compression Ignition Addict
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New Head Unit Install - and the fun ensues....
Got tired of my stock unit, like we all do and wanted a little more.
Here I will chronicle the trials and tribulations of my effort. May my battle be swift and the casualties be low.
So, here goes.
Truck: 2011 F350 Crew Cab with Factory Sync and Sub woofer and reverse camera in the rear view mirror.
Goals: Keep the factory sub and amp
Keep the factory camera working but display it on the new head unit
JVC KW-V950BW DVD Receiver
SiriusXM SXV300V1 Satellite Radio Tuner
iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Universal Radio Replacement & SWI
iDatalink HRN-RR-FO1 Install Harness select Ford models
Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Kit Late Models, DD (Dash install mounting kit)
Chrysler/GM/Ford Antenna Adapt Motorola M to OEM antenna F
Crutchfield RCA Y-Adapter 3.5mm Male to 2 Female RCA (Camera?)
SINCODA 3FT 2 Ports Dual USB 3.0 Male to USB 3.0 Female AUX Flush Mount Car Mount Waterproof Extension Cable for Car Truck Boat Motorcycle Dashboard Panel (that was mouth full)
To the install:
All the parts arrived from Crutchfield andI got straight to work on the wiring harness. I soldered up all the necessary connections and had a few wires leftover that I was unclear about from the Radios and Maestro's instructions.
A quick call to Crutchfield and all was figured out, at least with the base wiring.
NOTE: IF YOU HAVE SYNC AND WILL NOT BE RETAINING IT IN YOUR NEW BUILD, YOU MUST DISABLE BLUETOOTH. I have read in many other posts during my research that if you don't, there will be a very annoying message every time your boot up if you don't do this.
Procedure: go the the bluetooth settings on the original factory radio. TURN OFF BLUETOOTH. That's it. This will disable the factory Sync from looking for your device every time you start up.
If you have installed your new system already, then either remove the sync entirely (I believe it us under Passenger dash/front in the kick panel) or just reinstall your factory stereo, turn it off and then reinstall your new system.
The Crutchfield harness and the Maestro harness are very nice. I like to solder instead of use "crimp connections" those all fail over time. Either that or "military splice." just lasts longer and seems to work better.
Here is the factory harness. It turned out I did need the P. cont wire (power amp) but neither of the others.
Here are the leftover wires from the Maestro harness. Same thing. I used the Blue/white stripe to power the amp the other two do not get used.
Lastly, I got to the point where I tested everything.
The only thing that I noticed is that the camera didn't work. I am betting I am just am a dumbass and will need to actually find the source wires and splice into them, as my camera goes to the Rear View Mirror and did not go to the factory stereo.
I did have an issue with my steering wheel controls not working on the new head unit but I realized I didn't attach the control cable from the Head Unit to the Maestro, so DUH!!!! That was an easy fix.
I ran out of time to get all the Antennae (GPS and SIRIUS) routed and where I will put them Last night, so I am going to continue this weekend with more time and figure out the whole camera thing.
SHOUT out to JMAN37 who said he used his factory GPS antennae with his setup. I am going to try that to save one more thing mounted to my dash. No sense in leaving a perfectly good antennae lying around! Anyone know where that unit is plugged in? I assume near the SYNC unit in the passenger/front kick panel?
Thanks all! More to come this weekend!
When it comes to mechanics, everything I know is from either breaking it or watching someone else do the same. Then I had to fix it....Is that bad?
Murphy's Law: "things will go wrong in any given situation, if you give them a chance."
Last edited by roverjosh; 01-02-2020 at 12:56 PM.
Reason: iCloud photo shares don't post. So descriptions go to the thumbnails.