Not charging batteries after battery replacement - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 01-18-2019, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Not charging batteries after battery replacement

Hey everyone. I've had my 2014 F250 CCSB Lariat for a month now and I'm already fixing it ... Not too happy about it, but it is what it is.

I'm doing a big welding job far from home, staying in a local hotel. I drove to the hotel from the pub at night, no problems. Remote-started the truck from the hotel room, could see the lights come on, so I assumed the truck started normally, had my breakfast, and went outside to the truck not running. I tried to start it but the batteries were dead. Boosted the truck, but all the electronics (cluster, nav, etc) shut off when I disconnected the booster cables, with a message saying "Power off to save battery". So I figured, it being -25C (-13F), and the batteries being original, they're pooched.

I replaced both batteries with good new ones. Truck started no problem, but now I had a code and the battery light is on. P0625 - Generator field terminal circuit low. I have dual alternators. Cleared the code, but it came back immediately. Drove the truck 10 mins to site anyway cause I had no other option, everything was fine but the battery light stayed on. No more engine light - went away after sitting overnight.

I checked the Batts with a meter while running, they're 12.8V so obviously the truck isn't charging properly. I was an hour and a bit from home so I just decided to go for it, get as close to home as I could before I had to get it towed. I made it the whole way home, got in the driveway, shut the truck off, now it won't crank again. Batteries aren't dead dead, but it won't crank.

Not sure what to do now. Some guys are saying there's a wire that runs under the motor - I'm about to go check that. My assumption is my primary generator isn't working and the secondary one is just keeping the truck going while it's running, but not charging enough for the truck to start again once I shut it off.

Going to try to find this wire now, but I need the truck on Monday and it's going to be -35C (-31F) out here, so I need the thing to be reliable. Figured I would get a headstart looking for help before I run out of time.

As far as I can tell, there are no fuses for the generators, only a fusible link somewhere near the pass side battery. I've yet to look for it, but will in a moment.

Thanks for any help!

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post #2 of 21 Old 01-18-2019, 12:33 PM
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I would say it's either 1, or both of your alternators if your battery light came back on after new batteries installed.
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post #3 of 21 Old 01-18-2019, 12:40 PM
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I would have to agree with what was stated above. I know that you're in a hotel but is there any way that you can plug her in at night?

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post #4 of 21 Old 01-18-2019, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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So edit: I don't have dual alternators. I assumed "Extra Heavy Duty Alternator" on the window sticker meant you get an extra alternator ... I.e. additional.

So I have one HD alternator. I back-probed the plug on the alternator and got 12V on the red wire, 2V on the yellow, and 12V on the third wire when the engine is running. Looked black but I couldn't tell.

Does anyone know what values I should be getting on these wires?

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Last edited by amplituderacing; 01-18-2019 at 12:50 PM.
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post #5 of 21 Old 01-18-2019, 01:30 PM
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you may still have a bad battery. go have the new batteries load tested and isolate each battery before testing. If they test good, pull the alternator and have it tested.
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Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

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post #6 of 21 Old 01-18-2019, 01:35 PM
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one of these might have the connector you are measuring and the volts they should be.
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Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

Traded 2011 F350 XLT CCLB SRW 6.2L gasser 6,000 miles for 2015

Sold 1996 F350 XLT CCLB DRW 7.3L 208,000 miles
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post #7 of 21 Old 01-18-2019, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry1013 View Post
one of these might have the connector you are measuring and the volts they should be.
Larry, that's awesome information. It's exactly what I need, thanks!

Is there any way you could post the remaining diagnostic steps? I'm following them, but I need D14 which isn't posted. If you could post the rest or send them to me directly, that would be amazing.

Engine running I'm getting GENMON = 100% and GENCOM = 56%. When I unplug the generator harness these values don't change. I'm using my Snap-On Ethos Pro to monitor PIDs. Going as far as shorting the two pins at the harness side doesn't change the values either. I would assume that, if the wiring was OK, disconnecting the harness at the alternator would cause GENMON to read 0%, not 100%. So I'm going to guess that the generator is OK and I have a wiring issue ... going to have to pursue that tomorrow.

Would you happen to have a pinout for the PCM so I can check the harness for continuity? I'm going to check the GENMON and GENCOM circuits for a short to ground or B+ but, if I don't see a short, I'm going to assume that I have corrosion somewhere. In which case, I'd like to check resistance from the PCM connector to the generator connector, but I can't find either wire at the PCM connector. A third party source says GENCOM goes to pin 53 and GENMON goes to pin 14, but it appears both of those are empty at the connector so I must be looking at the wrong connector or the wrong pin numbers.

Thanks for the help, this is great!
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post #8 of 21 Old 01-18-2019, 03:22 PM
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maybe these will help also...
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Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

Traded 2011 F350 XLT CCLB SRW 6.2L gasser 6,000 miles for 2015

Sold 1996 F350 XLT CCLB DRW 7.3L 208,000 miles
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post #9 of 21 Old 01-18-2019, 03:23 PM
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Wiring diagram.
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Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

Traded 2011 F350 XLT CCLB SRW 6.2L gasser 6,000 miles for 2015

Sold 1996 F350 XLT CCLB DRW 7.3L 208,000 miles
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post #10 of 21 Old 01-18-2019, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry1013 View Post
maybe these will help also...
Yup, exactly what I needed. You're the man, Larry. Thanks! It's too dark now to do anything but I'll pick up again in the morning and report what I find.
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