Dash Cam and Auxiliary Switch - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.7 Electronics Discussion (2011-2016) 6.7 Electronics Discussion

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post #11 of 25 Old 10-28-2018, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by HeavyAssault View Post
The white/w-blue is part of that PTO bundle. I would like to skull drag the engineer that thought this was the best area or best length for all those wires.
I'll take another look since the sun is out today. It was overcast yesterday and the flashlight may not have rendered the best colors.
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Originally Posted by ZMANN View Post
i don't think i would focus on that particular wire if it is hard to find
I'll use whatever I can, but since it is to power my tuner at "key on" the location would be very convenient if I can find it. Where is the one you highlighted?
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post #12 of 25 Old 10-28-2018, 10:54 AM
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the one i highlighted states the location in the highlighted area

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Accessory PURPLE / green + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 6
i am sure there are dozens of ACC power leads that could handle the minimal draw of a camera without an "add a circuit fuse"

but that is a great way to play it safe and not compromise the original circuit should the camera fail

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post #13 of 25 Old 10-28-2018, 11:30 AM
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Sorry @ZMANN , my comprehension skills are lower than the EPA's approval ratings. I don't understand where to find that plug or wire. Is that in the bundle under the steering column?
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post #14 of 25 Old 10-28-2018, 11:33 AM
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it sounds like it comes from the key switch so if i was looking for it i would go the bundle from the column

i have not messed with your year truck but the pass kick panel has always been an easy go-to for various wires and it gets you close to the pillar and glove box on most vehicles

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post #15 of 25 Old 10-28-2018, 01:01 PM
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post #16 of 25 Old 10-28-2018, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ZMANN View Post
it sounds like it comes from the key switch so if i was looking for it i would go the bundle from the column

i have not messed with your year truck but the pass kick panel has always been an easy go-to for various wires and it gets you close to the pillar and glove box on most vehicles
Ah, ok. I thought you were talking specific to the 11-16's. Told you my comprehension was low!
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Well glory be, that is damn handy! Thank you, that is going to be helpful for years to come!
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post #17 of 25 Old 10-29-2018, 08:37 AM
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Hope this wasn't posed, sorry if repeat.

Here's what I used to power my cam:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/r.html?C=2...ZXSUBJVI2NTTGA

Tucked under headliner, popper pillar, fished to kick panel. Kit has piggy back fuse with it. Easy plug in and done.

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post #18 of 25 Old 10-30-2018, 04:09 AM
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The white/ blue is indeed under there. I just couldn't see the true color using a LED flashlight. It wasn't until I parked the trucks azz into the sunlight that I could see the real wire colors. Pretty sweet, and at a 5a rating it could be used for a couple gadgets that only require a trigger wire. That is, being powered elsewhere but using the ACC wire to start up- amplifiers, trailer tire press/ temp monitors, etc.
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post #19 of 25 Old 10-31-2018, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by tradosaurus View Post
I'm going to be installing a dash cam in my truck. THe owners manual talks about the 4 auxiliary switches and I'm thinking about using Auxiliary Switch #3 which is powered through a 10A fuse. According to the owners manual "There will also be one power lead for each switch found as a blunt-cut and sealed wire located to the right of the glove box door and just above the passenger side kick panel."

So I should be able to connect the Dash cam positive wire (red) to Aux Switch #3 power lead and then ground the dash cam - to something metal in the vicinity.

Anyone do this already?
You shouldn't have to use one of the upfitter switches for power, you can simply open the hatch in the middle of the top dash (over the radio) and plug the power cable into the 12V power point on the right side, you should also be able to close and latch the hatch without hurting the power wires since they're most likely 23Ga wire with a cigarette lighter plug on the end.

If you still want to run a wire to one of the upfitter switches the instructions are in the Q-117R2.pdf file I have attached, it's a double sided document with color photos of where to tap into the switches and a color wiring diagram on the 2nd page. The pdf covers model years 2011 and later F-250/350/450/550.

Switches 1 & 2 have 25 amp fuses, 3 has a 10 amp fuse and 4 has a 15 amp fuse.
The wires you will connect to are located on the drivers side, and above the parking brake handle. You will find them very easily if you look up while shining a flash light into that area.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Q-117R2.pdf (306.5 KB, 21 views)
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post #20 of 25 Old 10-31-2018, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightning546 View Post
You shouldn't have to use one of the upfitter switches for power, you can simply open the hatch in the middle of the top dash (over the radio) and plug the power cable into the 12V power point on the right side, you should also be able to close and latch the hatch without hurting the power wires since they're most likely 23Ga wire with a cigarette lighter plug on the end.

If you still want to run a wire to one of the upfitter switches the instructions are in the Q-117R2.pdf file I have attached, it's a double sided document with color photos of where to tap into the switches and a color wiring diagram on the 2nd page. The pdf covers model years 2011 and later F-250/350/450/550.

Switches 1 & 2 have 25 amp fuses, 3 has a 10 amp fuse and 4 has a 15 amp fuse.
The wires you will connect to are located on the drivers side, and above the parking brake handle. You will find them very easily if you look up while shining a flash light into that area.
Awesome. Thanks for the attachment.

I've installed dash cams in multiple cars I've owned so I'm probably going to route the dash cam wire to the inside fuse panel. I install an add-a fuse to the dash cam wiring using solder and electrical shrink wrap. I like having no wires exposed if possible.
And I would have to downgrade the voltage if I tied in to one of the auxiliary switches from the Dash cam.
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