2008 F350 Cab and chassis, 6spd 175,000 miles. Spartan/Patriot tow tune.
Radiator cap failed in and Arizona summer had no choice but to fill with tap water while pulling 5th wheel. I know that's a no no but side of the road in BFE fix to get moving. Drove it that way for a few weeks until I was able to replace the leaking radiator. Since then knew delta split was of 25+ oil vs water. Finally got it in ford house knowing what was wrong and they agreed (oil cooler)! They recommended inspection of front cover witch I agreed needed done and it had cavitation so was replaced. ( I did see front cover to verify). Tech says worst case of rust in system he has seen. Yet only ran one quart of VC9 through system? One week after picking truck up had to return, heater core was plugged. It was isolated from cooling system and flushed both ways and cleared up worked fine. Present moment, hooked up to travel trailer for a two hour trip and went from normal temp splits of 190 water - 244 oil, less then 150 miles, OK to TX.
Dealer that performed work says cant do nothing until it throws the dreaded P0128 +/-. The local ford house ran scan and it pulled nothing? Truck runs 20+ delta split empty on highway. I'm not a new'b or ignorant of these trucks. I do what work on them I can , so no smart remarks are needed thank you. Just wanted some input and support. Please no stupid questions/replies.
FYI. When radiator was replaced ran lots of water through system with no chemicals . Plus 8 gallons distilled flushes Filled with four gallons ford gold concentrate with four gallons distilled.
Not a Powerstroke, but since you mentioned rust...
Last year I noticed my Dakota run warm when pulling a trailer. It progressively got worse to the point of starting to overheat above 60 mph. Replaced everything from the front cover forward, and noticed a lot of rust buildup in the coolant passageways. I ran 2 quarts of CLR and filled the rest with water, with thermostat out, brought it up to temp, and let it sit overnight. I made a fitting to attach to the bleed port and ran a water hose to flush while running. Granted, it doesn’t have an oil cooler, but it cleaned out all of the internal passageways. Whether or not you want to do it is up to you, but I think if rust is an issue, you’ll be going through a lot of coolers until it’s resolved.
Negative on that, looks like clean coolant.
There was some build up in it when I changed the radiator but it was thoughryly cleaned by myself. Sorry for the delay was busy with the holiday..
Still looking for input and support on this subject.
So im late to the party but your oil cooler is clogged. As to why the code isnt coming back, i assume you need more drive cycles to throw it. Try disconnecting the batteries and draining the system for an hour. That will reset everything and maybe make it come back quicker.
Motorcraft gold comes in 50/50 pre diluted mix or full concentrate.
Thanks for the tip on resetting the system ,will give that a try. I looked up the part # and they did use the 50/50 then I assume finish off with water. Since the system holds close to or right at 8 gallons. Or it still had 2 gallons left in it they didnt drain after the flush. Will keep y'all posted.
Update: Truck idled most of day as it is my field office. Drive home 70 mph around 85 ° roughly 30 miles Texas , flat .
Water 190 ,Oil hit 250.° still no codes. I'm reading 260° is a magic # that's supposed to through the wrench. At this rate be there in a few days..
Would love too if someone could show some true results for the investment. Love my 6.4 and wanna keep the old girl .
I know it couldn't hurt but have yet to see a system that I feel would be a true 100% filtration system. That would be well worth the investment.
Best coolant filter is the IPR Research, hands down.
Have you checked the temp with an IR thermometer? Your sensor could be giving you a bad number.
When my 6.4 oil cooler took a chit I went with the BPD half kit and left the old cooler in place. Worked fine, not a cheap option but you don't have to pull the cab to install it.
P0128 is thermostatic temp below threshold.. in simpler terms, the thermostats rubber is gone and the engine takes too long to warm up. P012F is the code for oil/coolant temp correlation. I’ve seen this a number of times on 6.0s and 6.4s.. only permanent fix is replace oil cooler 10 times or go to air/oil kit and get a full flow coolant filter to clean the contaminants out for the heater core and radiator.
I know this has been ran into the ground but I cant find an answer. Cooler replaced in April of 19 , was plugged again in the first month. Dealer wont do anything till it throws a code regardless of delta splits. 10 deg split at idle once warm and up to 30 deg split in 5 miles highway. Have pushed it hard and had up to 260.5 deg still nothing. Could my tuner (patriot) have the parameters out of wack so it may never throw? I was prolly one of their last sells before closing and truck is stick 6 , maybe they just put a tune together quick and didnt fully load all limits etc.. in the files? This is a 911 and need help ASAP. Thanks 6.4ers.
Couldn't agree more on a ELC coolant but that's just ammo ford can use against me for part failure. And have spoke to several diesel shops in Houston area that I trust far more than ford but it's still a matter of principal. They were paid to do a job and in less than 5 months later I'm back in the same boat. Someone's gotta have a answer on getting a hot oil code on this?
You can try Houston Diesel pros. They’re outside the belt between hwy 6 & bw8 on the west side. They were actually quite helpful when I first acquired my truck, and were recommended by a couple performance shops-one of those shops being Hennessey Performance in Sealy.
There were other choices cheaper and closer to do my studs, but the customer service even before I was a customer is why I chose them. I’d just call em and ask.
According to Mitchell the code throws when the oil is between 16-30 degrees above coolant temp, dependent on engine load, etc. there’s also a pcm update that’ll clear this code. It’s possible it’ll never come up again if they flashed an updated tune in it.
Whom is this Mitchell , you speak of? I have wondered if this was something ford had done to avoid future warranty repairs. Especially after the service manager spoke with the tech that did the job and he said "I knew that truck would have problems again" .
Mitchell is a labor guide a lot of us shops use. They have all wiring diagrams, pin point tests, common repairs for codes, etc. basically I can type in a code and it’ll tell me every reason the code will be thrown and how to pin point down the issue. The p012F code says it throws when the oil is between 16-30* above coolant temp, dependent on engine load.
Or find someone who know how to chemically flush a 6.0! Properly!
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