'06 no start appear to have ICP, ficm V/sync - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 57 Old 12-29-2019, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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'06 no start appear to have ICP, ficm V/sync

Hi All,

I've read though the " no start" sticky and I cannot seem to figure my no start out. 2mo's ago my wife broke my starter, literally broke the housing and the starter was dangling. My neighbor ( a mechanic) put one on in my absence. He noted the alternator did have good output. Also before I left, I was getting a cyl6 contribution code, which in the past has meant its time for another dose of revX and historically that has resolved it. I changed the oil and put in ArchOil. I ordered an alternator and the next month I was out of town working, the alternator went out, She reported that the gauges when all haywire. Obviously the battery V was low for that to happen.

And then the rough running and eventual no start began.

My first thought was the FICM, but I have removed the inspection plate and measured it (47.5-48.5V) steady during starting.
Note: during a long crank I am getting black smoke between 5-10s, none between 0-5s, and you can tell it's trying to start. Also note, I have FICM sync.

I have attached my strip chart during a crank - no start attempt. No the IPR voltage doesn't perfectly line up with the ICP, and I'm beginning to wonder if I should be looking there, or maybe the the FICM is faulting - I do notice that the injector buzzing is less loud and to my recollection less frequent, if that make sense.

As of yesterday, there are no DTC's present and I changed the lower fuel filter and pulled the top to verify fuel was being pumped into the bowl. I have not checked fuel pressure, my gauge is for carbs (10psi)

Any help is appreciated.
Regards,
Joshua
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post #2 of 57 Old 12-29-2019, 12:19 PM
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You can have the logic side of your FICM go out and still have good FICM main voltage...especially with voltage issues like you stated. Do you have any way to read the FICM logic voltage?

-jokester
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post #3 of 57 Old 12-29-2019, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks jokester00, that is what I was afraid of.

Lets say some of the logic board were damaged and some injectors were firing, do you know if I would get that black smoke I'm experiencing? Obviously there are lots of scenarios with the injection system.

Regards,
Joshua
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post #4 of 57 Old 12-29-2019, 12:53 PM
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3.13 seconds? before much injection pressure was built -- it did regulate afterward, so may be good there

Are you getting enough RPM during cranking? -- need 150

and as @jokester00 mentioned need FICM input voltages -- greater than 10 during crank

starter bolts worked loose? -- never heard of a housing breaking otherwise

In my defense, I was unsupervised
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post #5 of 57 Old 12-29-2019, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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Rpm during crank is 200 and tapers off to ~190
FICM logic is 11.5V then during crank decreased to 9.5V

Thanks for the help,
Joshua
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post #6 of 57 Old 12-29-2019, 04:52 PM
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Charge and load test batteries individually

Consider sending FICM in to FICMrepair.com
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Mark
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post #7 of 57 Old 12-30-2019, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Bismic, I did a 100A load test on both,

driver side showed weak immediatly and dropped below 8V during a 5s test
Pass side I tested 3 time 10s each and still shows 800CCA
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post #8 of 57 Old 12-30-2019, 09:51 AM
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Get that drivers side battery replaced and repeat the cranking test.

Normally I like to replace batteries in pairs, but it isn't always needed.

Hard to say if the FICM was damaged w/ low voltage. If the logic side was damaged, it will need to be sent in.

See if you get a Fuel Pulse Width signal when cranking.
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Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; RACCCV6000; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in trans case; Fumoto valves; Harpooned; Blue regulator spring; DashDAQ; PHP FICM; RiffRaff boots; DCPower 270AXP; Power Inverter; Bilstein shocks; BPD EGR cooler, radiator, water pump; SCT w/ SRL+; Rotella ELC Ultra Coolant; X2Power AGM batteries
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post #9 of 57 Old 12-30-2019, 10:24 AM
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Agree with @bismic about replacing batteries in pairs. It's cheap insurance. Costco has Interstates for $99!

I have seen 1st hand when a weak battery(ies) caused a no start. A buddy's truck did it on a rafting trip a couple years ago. Hooked up jumpers to him and it fired right up. He replaced them both as soon as we got home.

-jokester
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post #10 of 57 Old 12-30-2019, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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I already got the battery replaced. I know the other one will be needing it but with the test results, I didn't feel comfortable asking for both.

I re-installed the FICM, no change except the cranking rpm was a bit higher.
I'll put the ficm back in and see if i can get the fuel pulse width while cranking.

Update soon.
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