LOW IPC V at WOT - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 60 Old 11-30-2019, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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LOW IPC V at WOT

I know I have had an issue for a while but just been busy. I drive the truck weekly but seems like the power is dropping and when I lost to a truck I normally beat it's time to solve the issue. The transmission is definitely going, wines all the time now and if I go full throttle at low speed it slips and hit rev limiter. New built trans on the list in the next few weeks unless it dies sooner, hopefully close to home.

Now for the real issue, I rebuilt the engine about 8-9 months ago, was a crank no start when done. Troubleshot it down to new HP HPOP, sent it in to have tested and failed so they reluctantly sent me another one, started up first try and been running ever since. My tunes are from Eric and I have been sending him the data attached, we can't get it where it should be because of the ICP volts, don't bother looking at the ICP psi because they are false numbers due to the tune to trick the PCM into raising IPR % which it is doing. Eric says I need to solve the ICP V before he can get it right.

I have replace the ICP and IPR, both OEM, no change and no debris. I installed LP oil gauge and stays above 70 psi when at WOT. Custom fuel system never drops below 68 psi. Sometimes hot or cold starts right up and sometimes cranks for a while, no consistency to it. But always starts and runs. I have new pigtails for ICP and IPR and will put them on in the morning and see if it makes any difference. But I really think I have another marginal HPOP. I don't really want to deal with the company again because I don't think the testing, diagnosis or replacement was on the up and up, I also don't want to buy another HPOP.

Any ideas, suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated. I love my truck but want to be done and just have fun with her until I break something new.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf truck log 5 10 19.pdf (365.0 KB, 18 views)
File Type: pdf truck log 5 18 19.pdf (260.4 KB, 16 views)

4" Silverline duals, SCT Livewire by Eric, EGR Delete, DDPM stage 1, KC stage 2, Warren 205/30, fuelab pump and regulator, 6" lift 37" and loose nut behind the wheel.
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post #2 of 60 Old 11-30-2019, 05:29 PM
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I think either a leak in the high pressure oil system or a failing HPOP -- consider also the intake screen for the HPOP, below the oil cooler
if the HPOP cant get oil, then the pressure(volts) will be low -- especially at high demand

A loose terminal on the IPR could cause the valve not to close as much as needed -- since the monitor reading is just a 'commanded' percentage

In my defense, I was unsupervised
.
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post #3 of 60 Old 11-30-2019, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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I will replace both pigtails in the morning. I went ahead and ordered new Ford ICP and IPR. I will do air test tomorrow just to see. Everything is new in the motor. I replaced dummy plugs and stand pipes even though I already had the updated ones. Rebuilt the oil rails and new injectors. I did all that so I wouldn't have a problem now.
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4" Silverline duals, SCT Livewire by Eric, EGR Delete, DDPM stage 1, KC stage 2, Warren 205/30, fuelab pump and regulator, 6" lift 37" and loose nut behind the wheel.
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post #4 of 60 Old 11-30-2019, 07:04 PM
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Solder the connections or at least if you use butt splices ..do a good job

In my defense, I was unsupervised
.
2006 F250 Lariat FX4 cclb
Torque Pro and OBDLink MX bluetooth monitor
General note:
For all those wanting a premium silicone sealer Kubota 70000-73764 is the best your gonna find. This is a hybrid gray silicone that uses solvent rather than acid to start the curing reaction, this makes it safe for aluminum and and any surface that involves coolant.
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post #5 of 60 Old 11-30-2019, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Definitely solder and heat shrink, only way to do automotive wiring. Would be surprised how many people twist and electrical tape connections and wander why they have issues.
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4" Silverline duals, SCT Livewire by Eric, EGR Delete, DDPM stage 1, KC stage 2, Warren 205/30, fuelab pump and regulator, 6" lift 37" and loose nut behind the wheel.
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post #6 of 60 Old 12-01-2019, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Well replace icp and ipr pigtails, soldered and heat shrinked. KOEO .2 on icp v, cranking 1.1 on icp v and 84% ipr. Attached are 4 pulls back to back. #1 coolant and eot were both around 150, subsequent pulls were between 180-190. LP oil hot at idle is 28-31, driving is 60, full throttle is above 80. I did not do air test, figured I would wait until changing the IPR. Hotter thinner oil finding a leak? bypassing hpop internally? bypassing ipr? first pull felt great. If you look at map and subtract baseline of around 14, I don't know why I'm only getting 28 psi boost, plenty of fuel because blowing black smoke. I took icp psi out because not real anyway. I'm at a loss, I'm still leaning towards the hpop with the first one being DOA and not a good experience with replacing. I'm also running T6 full synthetic and archoil additive, could that be making the oil too thin, should I go back to motorcraft since everything is new or at least take the archoil out. Before rebuild injectors were sticking and wouldn't run without it, I knew when it was breaking down cause truck would start running rough, do an oil change and all good. Any ideas? I'll change icp and ipr when they come in next week along with oil, will also perform air test at same time. I did air test when diagnosing no start after rebuild and hears tons of air in valley, leaking straight through the pump, did air test when I installed new pump and didn't hear anything at that time.
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File Type: pdf truck log 12 1 19.pdf (343.1 KB, 14 views)

4" Silverline duals, SCT Livewire by Eric, EGR Delete, DDPM stage 1, KC stage 2, Warren 205/30, fuelab pump and regulator, 6" lift 37" and loose nut behind the wheel.
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post #7 of 60 Old 12-01-2019, 04:56 PM
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T6 Rotella oil is a 40 weight ... it is not "thin".

What brand HPOP did you put in it?

I have a hard time believing that the HPOP went bad multiple times on an 06 model year.
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06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; RACCCV6000; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in trans case; Fumoto valves; Harpooned; Blue regulator spring; DashDAQ; PHP FICM; RiffRaff boots; DCPower 270AXP; Power Inverter; Bilstein shocks; BPD EGR cooler, radiator, water pump; SCT w/ SRL+; Rotella ELC Ultra Coolant; X2Power AGM batteries
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post #8 of 60 Old 12-01-2019, 04:58 PM
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Definitely ICPv(= pressure) is 'backing off' with each run

Would indicate(at first glance) a leaking high pressure system or the pumps inability to make pressure

I am curious about the vRef voltage being sent to the sensor -- is it solid at 5.0 volts?
low voltage to the sensor would cause a low output

There is a reference voltage sent to the IPR as well (12.0 volts) -- curious if it is solid
Since the PCM supplies the ground (Pulse Width Modulated) and the reading is only what is "commanded"
curious if the actual voltages at the IPR are reflecting what the PCM is commanding

Looking at the charts, the IPR value seems to be increased, meaning the PCM wants more oil pressure -- but the ICPv is low, meaning the pressure is not there
with the IPR% in the 90's(IPR closed) -- I should think the ICPv would be at or near vRef -- 5.0 volts

I hope this isn't too "rambly" as it does not draw a conclusion -- only more testing

In my defense, I was unsupervised
.
2006 F250 Lariat FX4 cclb
Torque Pro and OBDLink MX bluetooth monitor
General note:
For all those wanting a premium silicone sealer Kubota 70000-73764 is the best your gonna find. This is a hybrid gray silicone that uses solvent rather than acid to start the curing reaction, this makes it safe for aluminum and and any surface that involves coolant.
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post #9 of 60 Old 12-01-2019, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Bismic, I would rather not say yet who's hpop it is until deemed good/bad, I don't want to bring any undue negativity to the brand. I didn't really think anything was wrong with the oil either just a friend of mine does not like synthetic and prefers to stay with oem. I to think it would be odd to have a second poor hpop, although data from first post is right after installing second hpop and right out of the box poor numbers.

Hydro, volts across the system, battery, ficm logic, ficm input and alternator stay at or above 13.5v. How would you suggest I monitor input v at each sensor? None of my meter leads are long enough to go from engine bay to cab. I can check at idle supplied v to icp should be a constant 5v, ipr would be more difficult. What would cause varying voltage to the sensors?

Next week will be air test and both sensor replacements, if there is no air leak or leak through the filter I will have to presume the hpop is bad. At that point I will buy a different brand and then begin dealing with the original company to resolve the issue. But I'm hoping new ipr and icp will fix the issue.

4" Silverline duals, SCT Livewire by Eric, EGR Delete, DDPM stage 1, KC stage 2, Warren 205/30, fuelab pump and regulator, 6" lift 37" and loose nut behind the wheel.
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post #10 of 60 Old 12-01-2019, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Today is the first time I have seen anything over 4v since the rebuild, before I didn't monitor it. I started talking with Eric right after getting the truck running to get tunes updated, he modified a little but urged to get hpo/icp v up before he would finish. I replaced icp and ipr back then so doing it again is the definition of insanity but I really don't want it to be the hpop. I will do the air test this weekend before the sensors arrive. I work out of town but plan to come home a couple times this week, if I get time will do it sooner. That should be the definitive test.

4" Silverline duals, SCT Livewire by Eric, EGR Delete, DDPM stage 1, KC stage 2, Warren 205/30, fuelab pump and regulator, 6" lift 37" and loose nut behind the wheel.
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