Truck dies anytime I try to go past 40 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 10-13-2019, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Truck dies anytime I try to go past 40

So I had another post that went cold. About my truck in the past month I have replaced fuel pump/filters VGT seloniod, blue spring kit, EBP sensor and I’m still having this problem. No codes and everything on my SCT livewire tuner looks god. I can here my injectors clicking when I turn key on. 05 F250 6.0 250k miles if I drive paranoid and slow throttle it will drive around the block. I try and get up past 40 and as soon as I let off the gas it starts surging idle and it will die. If I throw it in park it will idle rough but stay running. If it sits for a period of time it will fire up and I can drive it back home. Stumped.
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Old 10-13-2019, 07:40 PM
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IMHO, a performance problem with no codes that is temperature-independent is either:
a) Clogged catalytic converter
b) IPR valve wiring or the valve itself
c) Fuel-related

You have replaced the fuel filters and pump so - although that doesn't rule fuel out, it rules it out for the moment.

So, questions... 1) Have a cat? 2) Have you tried moving the IPR valve wiring around - or any wiring - while idling to see of you can produce a stutter.

Last question... 3) Are you sure that this is speed-related and not temperature-related? Gotta ask.

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BPD oil cooler relocation and upgraded EGR cooler (spooled), BPD oil bypass filtration, aFe Magnum Force CAI, Mishi radiator, 7.3L fan clutch, EC1 ELC, XDP coolant bypass filtration, '08 trans pan/filter, PTP direct clutch solenoid, blue spring, 6.4 starter, MBRP y-pipe, BD boots/clamps, '05 intake elbow, ccv reroute, Torque Pro + OBDLinkô LX, Autometer EGT
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Old 10-14-2019, 03:30 AM Thread Starter
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I haven’t tried any of that. I have no cat. I’m not sure about the temp thing it has done it right away to me before. Even when I’m below 40 power is not there. It’s when I get on it, like if I baby it’s fine if I get on it at all it starts messing up.
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Old 10-14-2019, 04:32 AM
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DJ - Here is some more background on his issues.

https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...ough-idle.html

A fuel pressure gauge was suggested, but apparently he hasn't installed it for some reason.

I though he was going to post EBP readings as well (edit - he has added a reading now).
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06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; RACCCV6000; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in trans case; Fumoto valves; Harpooned; Blue regulator spring; DashDAQ; PHP FICM; RiffRaff boots; DCPower 270AXP; Power Inverter; Bilstein shocks; BPD EGR cooler, radiator, water pump; SCT w/ SRL+; Rotella ELC Ultra Coolant; X2Power AGM batteries
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Last edited by bismic; 10-14-2019 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 10-14-2019, 04:54 AM Thread Starter
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Kpa on exhaust back pressure at idle around 400 then goes to 600 to 700 then back down to 400ish once I’m not speeding up again. I changed out EBP yesterday with no change as well as VGT. I have not done a fuel pressure test yet being I changed out to the fuel pump and blue spring upgrade kit.
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Old 10-14-2019, 05:03 AM
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I think your other thread went cold waiting on more information.

What if the fuel pick up tube or fuel lines are partially plugged? What about a pickup tube failure (breaking)? What happens when you are surprised by poor quality fuel and the filters plug? People have bought aftermarket regulator "blue spring" upgrades and they have actually caused low fuel pressure. People have mis-installed the regulator spring and it has caused issues. As stated in the other thread, you need to know what your fuel pressure is. The injectors are sensitive to fuel pressure and there are more things that can go wrong than filters, pump, and regulator spring. If you want to assume it is ok, then we can move on and hope that it is fine.

A test on the EBP sensor is to compare MAP, Baro, and EBP readings at KOEO. They need to be the same value (but you need to have them in the same units - ie psi).

Also - 400 kpa is equal to 58 psig. That is too high for EBP at idle. If that is a valid number, then something is wrong (ie plugged up).

Did you install an OEM EBP sensor?

Mark
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Last edited by bismic; 10-21-2019 at 04:21 AM.
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Old 10-14-2019, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
I think your other thread went cold waiting on more information.

What if the fuel pick up tube or fuel lines are partially plugged? What happens when you are surprised by poor quality fuel and the filters plug? People have bought aftermarket regulator "blue spring" upgrades and they have actually caused low fuel pressure. People have mis-installed the regulator spring and it has caused issues. As stated in the other thread, you need to know what your fuel pressure is. The injectors are sensitive to fuel pressure and there are more things that can go wrong than filters, pump, and regulator spring. If you want to assume it is ok, then we can move on and hope that it is fine.

A test on the EBP sensor is to compare MAP, Baro, and EBO readings at KOEO. They need to be the same value (but you need to have them in the same units - ie psi).

Also - 400 kpa is equal to 58 psig. That is too high for EBP at idle. If that is a valid number, then something is wrong (ie plugged up).

Did you install an OEM EBP sensor?
It’s not an OEM EBP but it’s reading the same as the OEM I pulled out. I installed the blue spring kiit trying to fix the problem. I was going to pull the gas tank to work on the fuel pick up but with a 9 inch lift my jack wouldn’t get up that high. The fuel filters are new. Truck hasn’t ran for long enough to clog them up. Everything I changed out had been after it started messing up. BARO and EBO I’m not sure what that stands for to check it but map was at 15 psi
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Old 10-14-2019, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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May add also, not sure if it’s normal there is always pressure on my degas bottle no matter how long it sits. I have to slowly take the lid off even if it sits for days.
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Old 10-14-2019, 11:24 AM
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Pressure at all times on the degas bottle means head gasket issues most likely. Could be from a leaking EGR cooler also - if you aren't deleted).

The EPO was a typo. It was meant to be EBP.

Baro is the barometric pressure. It should be a standard PID (Parameter Identifier).

Most likely a seized turbo is why the EBP value is so high. Still need to see EBP (as well as Baro) at KOEO.

Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; RACCCV6000; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in trans case; Fumoto valves; Harpooned; Blue regulator spring; DashDAQ; PHP FICM; RiffRaff boots; DCPower 270AXP; Power Inverter; Bilstein shocks; BPD EGR cooler, radiator, water pump; SCT w/ SRL+; Rotella ELC Ultra Coolant; X2Power AGM batteries
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Last edited by bismic; 10-15-2019 at 01:42 AM.
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Old 10-14-2019, 12:12 PM
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Just an FYI - as I understand, the SCT devices don't read EBP correctly, so you'll have to find another scanner/monitor to use for EBP.

-jokester
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