Coolant Puked again...a little - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 35 Old 09-02-2019, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Coolant Puked again...a little

Im towing my 5k lb travel trailer, had this problem before and she puked. So, based on a lot of testing, I personally replaced the EGR Cooler, Oil cooler, FICM....did a bunch of stuff totalling close to 8,000 bucks. New turbo too because it was stuck.

Today, travelling across FLAT PLAINS, 65-70 mph, up a SLIGHT grade, she hit 235 degrees. I just put a new Mishimoto radiator in it because the factory one failed. Its the OLD mishimoto, which no one bothered to tell me. Anyway, it sucks. It was 102 degrees, and temps rolling down the road ranged from 210-235. Fan clutch screamed a lot of the way. I think it puked on that one grade when the temp got to 235 and the turbo hit 28psi. Anyway, i don't have any issue with exhaust in coolant, so I have no reason to suspect heads. But she did burp some coolant out the cap and the coolant level is well under the min mark so that's not great. Degas bottle is fine. Cap has been replaced already. Coolant is ELC.

ALL BPD Parts otherwise.

Am I going to have to eat another 300 bucks to get the BIGGER mishimoto cooler to haul this trailer?

I feel like I have anxiety attacks driving the truck anywhere....

There is no physical way the system can puke unless its getting exhaust in the system from the heads, but I have no other issues that point to that, so I'm kinda lost. 165,000 miles.

What do I need to do?

Last edited by brazosdog02; 09-02-2019 at 06:24 PM.
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post #2 of 35 Old 09-02-2019, 06:21 PM
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if i may...
scrap the mishi and get a new stock or other aluminum replacement.
the mishi quality is great but the design stinks.
i would advise doing a pressure test on the cooling system as well
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post #3 of 35 Old 09-02-2019, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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Mishi ship has sailed. If they will at least stand behind this product, I'll hang on to it. I don't tow that much, but when I do, It needs to cool.

How do you pressure test the coolant system?

I'll try it, but she has about 2000 miles and 100+ degree days of hard work ahead of her before she gets it. LOL.

Last edited by brazosdog02; 09-02-2019 at 06:32 PM.
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post #4 of 35 Old 09-02-2019, 06:44 PM
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Possible thermostat failure, that 235 seems a bit toasty -- the T stat not only controls temperature, but also the path the coolant takes thru the engine

Assume the AC condenser and charge air cooler fins are clear of bugs and dirt?

also if for whatever reason, the EGR decides to open(or is not properly closing) the added heat in the cooling will cause a steam bubble in the EGR cooler -- at high turbo pressures there is a lot of force against the EGR valve

Run the degas bottle level at least a half inch to a full inch below the low line

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post #5 of 35 Old 09-02-2019, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, fins are clean as a whistle. I have a heavy duty BPD Oil Cooler, too. Those temps seemed fine. LOL.

I was actually kinda surprised (and sad) that a new Mishi radiator (old one was leaking at the crimps) and a thermostat that is less than 1 year old (OEM) wouldn't keep my ECT at or below 210 when towing less than 5000 lbs and cruising no faster than 70mph on flat ground. She spent her entire day between 210 and 220, I know it was 102 out on the road, but still. **Shrug**

I may have to just keep an eye on temps and keep speeds at 65 or slower to manage temps until Mishi gets back with me.

Last edited by brazosdog02; 09-02-2019 at 07:09 PM.
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post #6 of 35 Old 09-02-2019, 07:46 PM
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I've been through the whole mishi shenanigans. Started with the old unit (thinner). Couldn't control temps when towing. I warrantied out the radiator to the newer thicker model... Same problem. I didn't want to believe it was the radiator so when the new bigger mishi rad went in so did a new coolant bottle, Degas cap, thermostat, and water pump, but it didn't change anything. I eventually replaced the mishi rad with a rad from performance radiator (same as rad from BPD). My overheating issues went away.

I personally think the mishi is running coolant too fast through the rad and not allowing enough time to dissipate heat. Multiple people have had the same issue with the mishi rads.

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Last edited by 1fastTRX; 09-02-2019 at 07:53 PM.
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post #7 of 35 Old 09-03-2019, 03:35 AM
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You only having issues when towing?

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post #8 of 35 Old 09-03-2019, 05:09 AM
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Read the post by 5J on "head gaskets". It may give you some info that may help. You need to tee in a pressure gauge to see what's going on with pressures. Also check your temp deltas between ECT & EOT.
See below.





Head Gaskets are blown by either overheating or excessive cylinder pressure.
Overheating will burn the sealer on the gaskets and they will eventually fail.
Excessive cylinder pressure Will Lift stock bolts and push through the gaskets.
If the pressure is enough it will push through the sealer even with studs and burn the sealer.
It may not Puke the first time it does but the damage is done.
Anything that will Increase cylinder pressure will increase the chance of Failure.
The 6.0 just Doesn't have enough bolts around the Holes
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post #9 of 35 Old 09-03-2019, 05:50 AM Thread Starter
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Hmmm....upper radiator hose was completely FLAT this morning. Cracked degas cap and it opened. LOL.

That can't be great.
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post #10 of 35 Old 09-03-2019, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Were cruising right now and the temperature variation is mind blowing. Flat ground. 95 degrees outside. 65 mph with 5,000 lbs of trailer.

One second I’m at 210, 3 seconds later I’m at 232 coolant temps. Fans screams and it slowly comes back down. It may even go back to 192.

Oil temps are within 2 degrees of coolant. I have a bpd cooler.

What the hell is going on????
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