Coolant Puked again...a little - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #11 of 42 Old 09-03-2019, 10:28 AM
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Temp sensor could be going out and producing false readings. Have you pulled temps for ECT/EOT cold soaked overnight?
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post #12 of 42 Old 09-03-2019, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brazosdog02 View Post
Hmmm....upper radiator hose was completely FLAT this morning. Cracked degas cap and it opened. LOL.

That can't be great.
Need to replace that cap, should let in air as the system cools with no restriction

In my defense, I was unsupervised
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For all those wanting a premium silicone sealer Kubota 70000-73764 is the best your gonna find. This is a hybrid gray silicone that uses solvent rather than acid to start the curing reaction, this makes it safe for aluminum and and any surface that involves coolant.
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post #13 of 42 Old 09-04-2019, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Lower radiator hose just split WIDE open. Stranded on I-10 with a family of 4 and my RV.

F—-.

ECT was 196 when it happened. Don’t understand that. Maybe running 10psi boost at the time.

Any thoughts on this??? She was running good!

Last edited by brazosdog02; 09-04-2019 at 07:57 AM.
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post #14 of 42 Old 09-04-2019, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brazosdog02 View Post
Lower radiator hose just split WIDE open. Stranded on I-10 with a family of 4 and my RV.

F—-.

ECT was 196 when it happened. Don’t understand that. Maybe running 10psi boost at the time.

Any thoughts on this??? She was running good!
First off, I’m sorry to hear you’re having trouble because that’s stressful and nobody needs that in their life.

Second, if hoses were old, I wouldn’t be surprised with the mileage you have. With excessive temperatures I would check what you have above. First cold soak truck make sure EOT and ECT are within 1-2 degrees of each other. If not, replace ECT sensor. If that checks out good, I would suspect stuck thermostat not allowing full coolant flow through the block. If that checks good, I would then get stock radiator. In my experience from reading the threads, the stock radiator is far more efficient than the Moshimoto radiator. Which is also why I haven’t purchased one. I would go back to stock radiator and get a stock thermostat just for the heck of it because they’re only $30. Probably replace top hose while you’re at it. If you’re worried about temps while towing especially, I would seriously consider the 7.3 fan clutch mod because I just did it, recorded temps, and they are much more favorable towing or not.
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post #15 of 42 Old 09-04-2019, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brazosdog02 View Post
Lower radiator hose just split WIDE open. Stranded on I-10 with a family of 4 and my RV.

F—-.

ECT was 196 when it happened. Don’t understand that. Maybe running 10psi boost at the time.

Any thoughts on this??? She was running good!
Where you at on the I-10? Did you get it put back together?
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post #16 of 42 Old 09-04-2019, 03:23 PM
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Have you replaced the coolant reservoir cap? they get weaker with age.
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post #17 of 42 Old 09-04-2019, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Were back up and running. Thanks for the concern and we’ll wishes! No time to get OEM parts but the shop got me running without much delay. I’ll tidy up the job and maybe put OEM lower hose in when I get back.

Otherwise, the hose appears to have just been old. I checked it by feel before we left and thought it was ok. I was wrong.

I’ll check cold soaked sensors in the morning. Thermostat IS OEM and Ian less than a year old. Cap is a bit older and I can get a new one if I need to. Upper hose is brand new OEM.

I have some super weird behavior in terms of cooling. Had a few times today towing where the ECT dropped to 180 and hovered a little below for a while and then shot up to 195 and settled at 208.4 for a while. That’s bizarre. Then I got to 234 for a bit for no apparent reason. I didn’t think it was even possible for these to happen with 100 degree weather. Anyway not sure if radiator or not but it’s weird. The 176 temp is highly unusual while towing with a subpar radiator in 100 degree weather but it sat there for a solid 5 mins or so. I don’t understand that.

I’ll check sensors in the am when they are all cold.
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post #18 of 42 Old 09-04-2019, 08:01 PM
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Have you verified that the EOT sensor is plugged in? It’s easy to miss when fixing stuff in a rush. But, I’ve had an issue with fluctuating readings in the past when the EOT sensor was not fully seated. It’s next to the fuel bowl.
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post #19 of 42 Old 09-05-2019, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Sensors checked out ok cold soaked. ECT EOT TRANS all within 1 degree. Trans was a couple of degrees higher but plenty close.

Towing now, just hit 240 ECT.....again....out of the blue....staying at 205-215 all day until it just up and spikes. EOT seems to follow ECT relatively. I have a BPD external oil cooler.

The truck alerted me to the temperature this time though. Dash beeped. Never seen that.

Last edited by brazosdog02; 09-05-2019 at 11:11 AM.
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post #20 of 42 Old 09-05-2019, 12:26 PM
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Can you measure ECT voltage or EOT voltage? The voltages should go up and down with the temps. If not, a sensor pigtail or wiring is bad. If the temperature is always within a couple degrees, I suspect this. If the voltage is steady, the PCM makes up a reading that is pretty close to either the ECT or EOT, so the temperature can lie, but the voltage is honest. Spiking quickly makes me think an intermittent EOT / ECT sensor, as others have said. These do cost about $50 each. The ECT and EOT are the same part number, so you can swap those out without buying one.

What type of BPD cooler do you have? I have the Air Cooled and the temps are hardly ever within a degree or two of each other. The remote cooler should also not stay within a degree or two.

For puking coolant, I built myself a Tee-Gauge out of a few bronze 3/8" barbed adapters, worm clamps, and 0 to 30 PSI pressure gauge. Getting to 16 PSI would point to headgaskets or EGR cooler.
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