2006 6.0 Quit While Driving-No Electrical - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Problems Forum Having Trouble? Post here

 1Likes
  • 1 Post By djmaguire
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 Old 07-06-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 48
Thanks: 6
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
2006 6.0 Quit While Driving-No Electrical

My 6.0 was driving about 60mph and completely shut down after hitting a bump on the highway. No power ,no lights dead on the side of the road. Came back about 2 hours later with the tow truck and it started right up. I just replace the starter and the ficm power supply but have been driving it for a couple months with no problems. What can this be?
97350 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 Old 07-07-2019, 03:05 AM
Premium Member
 
djmaguire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NWI
Posts: 6,115
Thanks: 172
Thanked 1,038 Times in 934 Posts
Mentioned: 261 Post(s)
Quoted: 1582 Post(s)
Garage
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Check the FICM connectors for no bent pins and ensure that they are fully seated. Check to ensure that your batteries connections are tight. ...and then read any codes.

2004 F550 CC Lariat
BPD oil cooler relocation and upgraded EGR cooler (spooled), BPD oil bypass filtration, aFe Magnum Force CAI, Mishi radiator, 7.3L fan clutch, EC1 ELC, XDP coolant bypass filtration, '08 trans pan/filter, PTP direct clutch solenoid, blue spring, 6.4 starter, MBRP y-pipe, BD boots/clamps, '05 intake elbow, ccv reroute, Torque Pro + OBDLinkô LX, Autometer EGT
djmaguire is online now  
post #3 of 10 Old 07-11-2019, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 48
Thanks: 6
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I didn't check the ficm or battery connections ,but I will once it gets running again. I drove the truck to work and around town all week until it stopped today. I started it and put it in drive slowly moved about ten feet and out it went. No electrical power. No headlights no horn. Both batteries at 12.8volts.


I checked the two big 60 amp fuses under the hood and they're good. Strange thing is when I check for power on both sides of the fuse to see if its good,I'm only getting 8-9 volts but the batteries read 12.8.


Which fuses or circuit breakers should I be looking at first?


Thanks for the help.
97350 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 10 Old 07-13-2019, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 48
Thanks: 6
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I've tried checking the voltage at the FICM and I get zero. I checked the three plug on the FICM as I had replaced the power supply about 2 months ago and thought one may have come out. All good. I pulled the FICM relay and have 10 volts at pins 1 and 5 in the socket. I checked the relay and it works as it should. I tried the red reset on the passenger kick panel. Today the truck is reacting a little differently. When I turn the key on the vac pump turns slowly. If I try the horn it clicks the relay but doesn't have enough power to operate. The hazards don't operate but make a clicking sound. None of the lights come on and again both batteries read roughly 12.7 volts. I read the voltage with the light switch on and off and it didn't change.

Why can I not read 12 volts at the various terminals and fuses? Its always lower than 12 but at the battery its 12.7.


Are there fusible links that I should be checking?
97350 is offline  
post #5 of 10 Old 07-13-2019, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 48
Thanks: 6
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I just tried the yellow wire jumper and it cranks the truck over. I didn't try to start it though because there's still no power anywhere else.
97350 is offline  
post #6 of 10 Old 07-14-2019, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 48
Thanks: 6
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I checked all fuses under hood as well as the larger 30 and 40 amp ones under the dash. Found nothing wrong. I removed the FICM and reinstalled it just to verify the connections. It started...Hopefully this was the fix.I'll cross my fingers for now.
97350 is offline  
post #7 of 10 Old 07-15-2019, 11:12 AM
Premium Member
 
djmaguire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NWI
Posts: 6,115
Thanks: 172
Thanked 1,038 Times in 934 Posts
Mentioned: 261 Post(s)
Quoted: 1582 Post(s)
Garage
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97350 View Post
I checked all fuses under hood as well as the larger 30 and 40 amp ones under the dash. Found nothing wrong. I removed the FICM and reinstalled it just to verify the connections. It started...Hopefully this was the fix.I'll cross my fingers for now.
Glad to read of possible fix. Sorry for abandoning the thread. I was traveling over the past few days.

My reason for originally suggesting the checking FICM and batteries were mostly because they were the last things touched. I get that - after running fine for a couple of months - you would expect that they were wrung out. But, some things take time to rear their ugly head. ...and those FICM connectors can be a pain.

Interestingly... I think that - at times like this - a shop (either knowingly or not) will say "you need a new FICM." ...and then, after replacing it, say "Yep. That fixed it." When the only real fix was a reconnecting a loose connector.

Anyway... I hope that you found the issue.
Patriot likes this.

2004 F550 CC Lariat
BPD oil cooler relocation and upgraded EGR cooler (spooled), BPD oil bypass filtration, aFe Magnum Force CAI, Mishi radiator, 7.3L fan clutch, EC1 ELC, XDP coolant bypass filtration, '08 trans pan/filter, PTP direct clutch solenoid, blue spring, 6.4 starter, MBRP y-pipe, BD boots/clamps, '05 intake elbow, ccv reroute, Torque Pro + OBDLinkô LX, Autometer EGT
djmaguire is online now  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to djmaguire For This Useful Post:
97350 (07-20-2019)
post #8 of 10 Old 07-20-2019, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 48
Thanks: 6
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Its dead again. The truck didn't last 20 feet in my driveway and did the same thing.

I'm going to check the grounds as well as the back of the fuse box by the drivers knees.

I'm now paying closer attention to the little sounds its making. With the key on the injector clatter is very slow and I can feel the ficm relay chattering. It won't crank with the key and there's not enough power to blow the horn but it will click the relay a few times.


Hasn't this happened to anyone else?

Any ideas on where to check would be appreciated.
97350 is offline  
post #9 of 10 Old 07-20-2019, 03:52 PM
Serving Our Country!
 
ChrisSki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,274
Thanks: 122
Thanked 287 Times in 285 Posts
Mentioned: 62 Post(s)
Quoted: 543 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I was thinking grounds also. I check with my multimeter with the engine off, terminal to terminal, +Terminal to negative cable, and then various chassis ground. There should be almost no difference in voltage. I then turn the engine on and check the alternator voltage at the red wire on the alternator to alternator chassis ground, and then various grounds throughout the truck. If you trace the black battery cable back to the frame, that is a candidate for a ground point to get cleaned, not just the battery cables.

Here, since there's so many auto stores, I'd pull the battery and alternator and have them tested out of the truck.

2005 F250, 189,000 Miles
Bullet Proof HD Oil Cooler w/ Cold Weather Kit, Bullet Proof EGR, Bulletproof Water Pump, 7.3 Fan Clutch
Airlift 5k Airbags and Wireless Air
Edge CTS w/ EGT probe and Fuel Pressure Sensor.
15 MPG slick; 10 MPG towing 11k fifth wheel
Ravelco

6.0 Flush Procedure:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Good 6.0 Reading:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ChrisSki is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ChrisSki For This Useful Post:
97350 (07-20-2019)
post #10 of 10 Old 07-20-2019, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 48
Thanks: 6
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
In my second post I mentioned getting less than 12 volts at the fuse box. It turned out to be a bad connection between the positive on the drivers side to the under hood distribution panel. I had tunnel vision and pulled the battery cables but didn't pull the leads coming off the cables. Plus the drivers side cable is not stock and will be changed in the near future.

Thanks to djmaguire and ChrisSki for offering help on this one.

I hope this fixes it this time.....
97350 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome