2006 F350, 6.0, 4x4, CC SRW
EGR deleted
ARP head studs, gaskets
1.5 year old upgraded FICM from ficmrepair.com
New stock radiator, CAT ELC
Rotella T6, motocraft oil and fuel filters. 2k miles ago


So my truck ran great the last few days as I headed to the cabin 4 hours from home and tooled around up here last night to watch fireworks, etc.. Today it cranks/no start. Plenty of fuel pressure at the upper filter, so I don’t think it’s a problem between the tank and engine. I have a half tank of fuel, so it isn’t the obvious problem.

I’m running a SCT livewire TS+, using their canned tunes. Only code is p1000

KOEO:

ICP .5-1.5 psi
ICP duty cycle .14
VGT duty cycle 0.00
FICM main volts 49.0

Cranking:

ICP gets up to 287
ICP duty cycle .84
VGT duty cycle 0.00
FICM main volts 49.5

It has been rainy, humid, foggy. Hot in the day (near 90 is hot in northern WI). and low 60’s at night.

I remember reading ICP duty cycle should never read .15 or .85, but I don’t remember what it means if it does. I’m up here for 2 more days, there is a decent size town 30 minutes away I can get parts, and I have other vehicles I can take to get said parts.

There is a fair list of new parts on this truck, but not much related to fuel. I have been working on tracking down a “miss” when the truck is cold, all signs pointed to injector sticktion. I used an oil additive recommended by diesel tech Ron that nearly eliminated the problem.

I hope it’s something easy and not the HPOP....

Point me in a direction and I’ll go to work. FYI, I’m stranded here with my wife, parents, and 1 10 yo girl, and 4 13 yo girls. I don’t mind spending time in the garage!

Definitely feel for your situation -- the low icp and high ipr indicate the pcm wants more pressure from the high pressure oil -- gotta have over 500 psi to fire the injectors -- under normal circumstance I would suggest an air test to see if you have a high pressure oil leak

Well, I do have an air compressor here, and I read another post where you were talking about an air pressure test, but that is something I have not done before. There are tools here, but I don’t have the IPR removal tool, or the right adapter, or any of my special 6.0 tools.

I was hoping with the high humidity and rain it would be some wet plug that isn’t reading right, or a short in a harness. I could do a temporary fix on those till I get home. But the HPO leak, or shot hpop sounds likely.

Trying to figure what you can do "out in the field"

May want to disconnect the ICP sensor -- that will set a bogus(inferred) pressure(1700psi ?) -- see if the engine will start

I disconnected the ICP sensor. When cranking, it showed 1303 psi. Still no start.

Now with the sensor reconnected, it only builds 9 psi...

"Now with the sensor reconnected, it only builds 9 psi... "
we can assume that the sensor is reading OK -- then the hpop cant build sufficient pressure, either from a oring leak or the IPR is not closing all the way -- the V style pump is pretty robust

Would be good to inspect the IPR connector, if you can get eyes on it -- swapping in a new one would be the next thing some would do -- I would do an air test on the IPR to see if it can close at all first tho -- if you have a rubber tip on your air hose and a helper to hold it in the port, could pressurize thru the ICP sensor port and hot wire the IPR to see if it would hold air ...or leak -- obviously the better the air connections the better you can listen for internal leaks -- icp sensor is 12mm x 1.5 thread if there is a parts store or hydraulics shop around

Crimp a couple of butt splice connectors(red) on 3 feet or so of wire to use as "connectors" on the IPR pins -- one for ground and the other for 12v(only keep connected for about 1 minute at a time)

Well there is a NAPA in the nearby town. According to their website they have both a new IPR, and the new screen/o ring kit both in stock in case I can rebuild it. I can call tomorrow morning and see what reality says. I could also get fittings there to do an air test most likely. I will need more details on how to do the air test though. Or a link to a video would be better.

What is the special socket called to remove IPR?

From the videos I’ve seen I need to remove intake tube, degas bottle and FICM to get at the IPR. Then a swivel and extension to get on it.

I think the first thing I will do is try to get the IPR out, inspect the screen, and go from there. I did just go out and take the upper oil filter cover off. That oil filter is dirtier than I’ve ever seen it even after a 6k interval. Makes me wonder if the additive knocked a bunch of crap loose and plugged up the screen in the IPR. I’m going to get stuff for an oil change too.

No sign of coolant or diesel in the oil.

I better get some sleep. NAPA opens at 7 tomorrow and I have a half hour drive. If you think of anything else I should buy while there to increase my odds of success let me know. I’m not afraid to use my credit limit to have things on hand to reduce trips to the store, then return unused stuff later.

Thank you for all the quick replies, I really appreciate it.

Here's a video:


For the IPR socket, I've seen them on the shelf in AutoZone before. They were labeled 6.0 IPR Socket. Here's a thread of someone who made one: https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...ipr-valve.html

I did not see you mention an air pressure adapter that is the same size as an IPR or ICP socket. They can be purchased on line,. I do not know what size to buy, but in my area, Ace Hardware has a better on the shelf selection of brass adapters than Home Depot. The threaded adapters I've seen are all NPT and I don't know if an IPR valve is NPT or not.

For the IPR % its more of hitting .84 and not reaching above 500 PSI. I've seen my IPR hit .84 and my truck starts nice and quick. Once I turn the key, I only get two readings from the SCAN GAUGE and the truck is running.

It could be quite the repair you're getting yourself into. Even after the air test, you will know which covers to take off. I'm not sure the purchase of a new IPR or screen is warranted, but it's a half day trip to get back to town if it was. Could always keep it in the packet and return if not needed. I may attempt the repair at the house, but away and with little time, I'd really consider using my AAA towing to take it to a shop.

The good news is we have extra vehicles up here, and my truck fits in the big *** garage. I can leave it here and come back next weekend if I need to.

Most likely it’s the IPR or dummy plug o rings failed is what all the Diseltechron videos seem to be telling me. No one has been into the valve covers on this for probably 75k miles since it was studded and gasketed. I don’t remember if I had him do dummy plugs then or not.

I do plan on getting new dummy plugs and standpipes to bring back with me, as well as fittings for the air test into the IPC hole. Hydro gave the size and thread I need in one of his posts.

Getting the rear valve cover bolts out of the passenger side is much easier if you remove the fender liner first