AC cuts out when motor is heat soaked. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-21-2018, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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AC cuts out when motor is heat soaked.

I have a strange issue with my 05 F350 a/c. It will blow cold if I turn it on when motor is cold, and will keep blowing cold as long as I keep it on. If I drive long enough to heat soak truck (1-2 hrs), it will not blow cold after I turn truck off and then restart. It does blow warm air after I restart truck. Any ideas?

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post #2 of 11 Old 08-21-2018, 07:39 AM
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You may have an obstruction in your refrigerant line. Maybe a clogged orifice tube. Maybe the evaporator core freezes after shutdown. @Flamed99 will know


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post #3 of 11 Old 08-21-2018, 01:07 PM
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It sounds like your condenser can't keep up, if it's not cooling, you won't get cold air. It's hard to test, and if you replaced it then the system has to be vacuumed and recharged $$$
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-21-2018, 01:38 PM
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Difficult to pinpoint without a few additional details. I'd first question whether the a/c compressor is even engaging after the heat soak you describe. If it is, and isn't exhibiting any abnormal behavior such as rapid clutch cycling, or line icing, I'd suggest you attach a set of gauges to the system to see what your pressures are, particularly your high/head pressures. If you don't have access to gauges, or don't want to unnecessarily release refrigerant (which does happen each time the gauges are connected, albeit in relatively small quantities), you can check line temperatures manually. Exercise caution when doing this to prevent injury (stay away from anything moving...). The larger/suction line near the accumulator should be cool or cold to the touch when the system is running and may also be sweating. The smaller/high pressure lines should be hot to the touch. Obviously your experience may vary, but the temperature in my experience should be just short of uncomfortable to touch. If the line is hot enough to rival a radiator hose, for example, you've either got a restriction in the system, or lack of/inadequate air flow across the condenser. If the compressor is not engaging, I'd suspect the low pressure switch, which should be attached to the accumulator with a two lead connector plugged into it. It is possible that heat from the engine could be affecting the switch. These switches can fail, although it isn't common. You can check this (with the engine off, by the way) by checking continuity across the two posts using a volt meter. If the switch is good, you should get a tone from your volt meter. If it isn't, the circuit should read open. The latter can also occur if the system has an inadequate refrigerant charge, but it sounds like that's not the case based on your description. Otherwise you wouldn't receive cold air when the engine is cool.
As always, "your mileage may vary", but hopefully these suggestions will give you a place to start.
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-21-2018, 10:00 PM
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Def need to know if the compressor is cycling once it's hot. It seems more like a sensor or switch issue. Maybe the high pressure switch is acting up once it hot. Based on what has been stated so far really can't for sure what it is or where to start.

If it were a blockage in the lines, condenser, or evaporator, it would show up much sooner and it wouldn't matter how much time has lapsed. There is there same amount of heat after the first 30 mins as there is in 2 hours.

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post #6 of 11 Old 08-22-2018, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
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I’m thinking it is some kind of switch problem myself, was hoping for a “yeah, just replace relay blah blah, and problem solved “. Kind of answer.... I am on vacation (pulled fifth wheel to beach), and we drive our van around while we are here(we have 6 kids and a dog). So, I haven’t had a chance to get the truck to act up.... The last 3 hours were kinda rough on the way down here as we stopped 2 hours into trip for kids potty break(15 min). Once we got back into truck the ac was blowing hot... Once we got here and let truck cool a couple hours ac worked fine. I was gonna see if maybe the air gap was bad on compressor. Wife has kept me busy “vacationing “ so I haven’t checked it yet. If it is, I could just bump it manually some how to get it to engage? Then adjust shims once I get back home.


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post #7 of 11 Old 08-22-2018, 07:10 AM
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You may want to verify the vacuum actuated heater line control valve is functioning properly along with the blend door. It's unlikely, but possible that your A/C is working, but you are just getting excess heat in the duct work. Just a thought.

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post #8 of 11 Old 08-22-2018, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidvan326 View Post
I’m thinking it is some kind of switch problem myself, was hoping for a “yeah, just replace relay blah blah, and problem solved “. Kind of answer.... I am on vacation (pulled fifth wheel to beach), and we drive our van around while we are here(we have 6 kids and a dog). So, I haven’t had a chance to get the truck to act up.... The last 3 hours were kinda rough on the way down here as we stopped 2 hours into trip for kids potty break(15 min). Once we got back into truck the ac was blowing hot... Once we got here and let truck cool a couple hours ac worked fine. I was gonna see if maybe the air gap was bad on compressor. Wife has kept me busy “vacationing “ so I haven’t checked it yet. If it is, I could just bump it manually some how to get it to engage? Then adjust shims once I get back home.


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I had a new compressor with a huge gap at the new clutch, .078”. I used a long pry bar or tire machine tool to bump it, and it engaged. Be careful.


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post #9 of 11 Old 08-23-2018, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Just checked air gap and it looks good... less than .025”.... wondering if relay could get weak when hot....


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post #10 of 11 Old 08-24-2018, 08:25 AM
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I'm having the same issue... Mine cools and gets hot intermittently. I'm still on the hunt for a solution and will post what I've tired and if it's fixed.
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