Necessary upgrades for 6.0 Excursion - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 03-26-2018, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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Necessary upgrades for 6.0 Excursion

Just acquired a 03 Excursion 4x4 stock with 140k miles. Other than it being from Pennsylvania and having a good bit of undercarriage rust, the truck is awesome and mechanically in good shape. The previous owner said that he deleted the EGR but my local mechanic said everything still looked in tact but he hasn't actually torn it apart. Could that be because of the Pennsylania inspection and that it's hidden? Also, I know i'm long over due on some suspension upgrades, escpecially shocks because it bottoms out on big bumps. What's the best shock for these trucks? It is a 4x4 and all i pull is a 5k boat to and from the boat landing. Also, what are some necessary upgrades that I need to budget for and does anyone have any suggestions for removing layers of undercoating and rust? I really want to preserve this truck and don't mind putting some money in it. Thanks in advance for your suggestions and advice!
Michael
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post #2 of 21 Old 03-26-2018, 01:41 PM
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I just bought a 2003 Excursion Limited 6.0L with 130,000 miles in great shape also. Even though the P.O. Did do the delete on mine, and said he changed all the fluids, I will be doing a complete (do a search) coolant flush to attempt to get any passage blocking silicates from the original Ford Gold coolant that were left behind. While I'm in there, a new thermostat, and a coolant filter system. I will also be buying a ScanGauge to monitor the EOT, ECT, and EGT while towing, and determine the current engine health, and difference between the coolant/oil temps. I have already bought, but not installed the FPR blue spring mod, all new fuel filters, the upgraded banjo bolts, and the Zoo mod.

2003 Excursion Limited 4x4 Green/Tan 6.0L
-EGR deleted
-Atlas 40 FICM tune
-blue FPR spring
-Banjo bolt upgrade
-DieselKleen/2 cycle oil mix
-33" BF Goodrich All Terrains
-People hauler/camper tow-er


1999 F250 Lariat supercab 4x4 7.3L....lots of miles, lots of rust.
2004 Mustang GT triple black 4.10 gears, tuned.
1996 F150 300 I6 long bed.
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post #3 of 21 Old 03-27-2018, 03:50 PM
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I know it ain't glamorous, but getting the extended-length struts for the back glass hatch made such a huge difference. If you go back there a lot and you are on the taller side, very necessary.


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2004 Excursion
183K and purring, Toyo R/T 285s, 4" Flo Pro, Atlas-40 FCIM tune, SCT X4 with looney, RiffRaff coolant filter/CAC boots, Hewitt/Marshall gauges (Pyro/Turbo/Fuel/EOT/ECT), Nations TAD-185 alternator, Big 3 cable/zoodad mods, Mobile 1, Delo ELC, when does it end?!?
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post #4 of 21 Old 03-27-2018, 04:04 PM
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For the EGR delete, if its done the EGR probably is welded to prevent air flow. Believe the early models will not trip a code if the engine has not been reflashed. For a later model truck, I would get a check engine code. If you get a PCM flash and it is deleted, then it cold trip a CEL light.

Concentrate on some of the stuff in the stickies and getting a monitor first. If the truck is bottoming out over normal bumps, yes suspension time.

I'd hold off on the flush until you're comfortable with performing it, otherwise you can wreck a perfectly good oil cooler like I did. The gold has been in there forever, a few more weeks won't hurt it.

2005 F250, 189,000 Miles
Bullet Proof HD Oil Cooler w/ Cold Weather Kit, Bullet Proof EGR, Bulletproof Water Pump, 7.3 Fan Clutch
Airlift 5k Airbags and Wireless Air
Edge CTS w/ EGT probe and Fuel Pressure Sensor.
15 MPG slick; 10 MPG towing 11k fifth wheel
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6.0 Flush Procedure:
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post #5 of 21 Old 03-28-2018, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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I'm definitely not confident with the flush so I'll have to pay my local powerstroke mechanic for that. What specifically in the stickies would you suggest in order of importance. The truck only bottoms out on big bumps but I've noticed all 4 rubber bump stops are gone and the shocks are factory. Would you recommend a leaf spring upgrade also or do you think the shocks will work? I've also heard a million opinons on shock brands but what would you recommend. Thank you all for your help!
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post #6 of 21 Old 03-28-2018, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6.0Castle View Post
I know it ain't glamorous, but getting the extended-length struts for the back glass hatch made such a huge difference. If you go back there a lot and you are on the taller side, very necessary.
Didn't even know that they made extended struts but they're in my amazon shopping cart now! Thanks!
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post #7 of 21 Old 03-28-2018, 03:00 PM
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Flushing the old coolant out and replacing with new is something you could do.

If you're going to flush AND switch the coolant be ready for a party!

I never flushed a coolant system before this diesel, but it was easy.

I'm talking flush n fill, not flush n switch (elc). There are many simple, effective flush/fill write ups here. Pick one you're comfy with and go. 20 gals distilled, 3.5 gals coolant n your time, very reasonable for fresh coolant.

That will prepare you for tackling the all day affair of switching...


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2004 Excursion
183K and purring, Toyo R/T 285s, 4" Flo Pro, Atlas-40 FCIM tune, SCT X4 with looney, RiffRaff coolant filter/CAC boots, Hewitt/Marshall gauges (Pyro/Turbo/Fuel/EOT/ECT), Nations TAD-185 alternator, Big 3 cable/zoodad mods, Mobile 1, Delo ELC, when does it end?!?
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post #8 of 21 Old 03-28-2018, 04:40 PM
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I agree with 6.0 Rock Castle. I think everyone should flush there own coolant if possible. It's not a difficult process on paper, but you need to be confident in the steps and not take short cuts. Its so labor intensive, I don't see how someone with a shop rate of $100 per hour would be able to do it for less than a grand. I don't mean to scare anyone away from doing it on their own when I say I ruined an oil cooler, but to just not skip any steps.

2005 F250, 189,000 Miles
Bullet Proof HD Oil Cooler w/ Cold Weather Kit, Bullet Proof EGR, Bulletproof Water Pump, 7.3 Fan Clutch
Airlift 5k Airbags and Wireless Air
Edge CTS w/ EGT probe and Fuel Pressure Sensor.
15 MPG slick; 10 MPG towing 11k fifth wheel
Ravelco

6.0 Flush Procedure:
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post #9 of 21 Old 03-28-2018, 08:14 PM
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Definitely leaf spring change, even fresh off the lot my dad's excursion constantly hit the bump stops swapping in V code springs made a massive improvement in ride quality.


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E̶a̶r̶l̶y̶ ̶2̶0̶0̶3̶ ̶6̶.̶0̶ ̶E̶x̶c̶u̶r̶s̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶f̶u̶l̶l̶y̶ ̶b̶u̶l̶l̶e̶t̶p̶r̶o̶o̶f̶e̶d̶,̶ ̶1̶5̶5̶/̶3̶0̶ ̶i̶n̶j̶e̶c̶t̶o̶r̶s̶,̶ ̶K̶C̶ ̶S̶t̶a̶g̶e̶ ̶2̶,̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶a̶ ̶l̶o̶t̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶ ̶s̶t̶u̶f̶f̶.̶ Cummins swap in progress. Thanks to everyone on the forum I have learned a lot.
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The EGR does to your engine what smoking does to your lungs.

Remember you can always improve on a design until the EPA gets involved.


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post #10 of 21 Old 03-29-2018, 06:28 AM
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I'd say just get a monitor and drive the thing. Look for smoke, leaks, smells, see what feels off and shows off on the monitor and work from there.

Factory front shocks are inexpensive and easy enough to do yourself. Replaced mine around 240K cause the rubber bushings became worn and deteriorated, rattling like crazy. The shocks themselves were fine. Never hit bump stops.

The EGR cooler might be welded up like ChrisSki said, so it can still pass visual inspections.

I'd expect to replace some orings, gaskets, seals that just get brittle and need replaced overtime. You'll see the leaks lol. Serpentine belt. Maybe a cracked radiator or overflow bottle at some point. Fan clutch may or may not be working. Some of the wiring harness may need some attention. It's a 15year old truck, don't be surprised if it needs work.

I wouldn't pay a mechanic for a coolant flush. It's simple, just very time consuming. It could take ALL day. I wouldn't use the chemicals unless you're prepared to change coolers soon.

I'm 6ft, never noticed any issues with the rear hatch. Maybe i'm used to ducking that little bit, or they were already changed?

Welcome and Enjoy!

2005 Excursion Limited w/274K+ miles
-Turbo back exhaust -Harley Headlights & Grill
-OEM 20's -FICM Tuner -EGR delete -Torque Pro App
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