Oil cooler and EGR cooler service PDF files and notes - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 06-24-2011, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Oil cooler and EGR cooler service PDF files and notes

Heres a few notes, tips and tricks I accumulated over some time for this.

One difficult part will be the exhaust part of this. The up-pipe on the passenger side has to be replaced. That means it will have to be unbolted from the exhaust manifold and the y-pipe. This can create some issues getting the y-pipe to mate PERFECTLY with the turbo flange upon reinstallation. That connection must be perfect before that clamp goes back on or you will lose boost, the truck will be a dog and you will hear a loud hiss.
I suggest that when you remove the passenger side up-pipe and put the new one on (from the delete kit), put the bolts through the flange on the new up-pipe and through the exhaust manifold. Thread the nut on the bolt only one or two threads. Remove the bolts on the drivers side up-pipe from the exhaust manifold also, and put new bolts through the flange with the nuts threaded only a few threads. This will give you the "wiggle room" you will need when reinstalling the y-pipe to the turbo.


Once you have the oil cooler ready to come out, have an old beach towel laid across the front of the truck to catch all the oil dripping of it. Once you have the oil cooler out, you have to clean the cavity that it came out of. Get any/all junk out of this area. You will likely see the HPO screen torn. The oil cooler kit comes with a new updated one anyway. Do not remove that screen at this time. Cover the screen with rags and clean the cavity above it.
If you use a solvent such as brake cleaner, make sure none of that solvent makes its way into the area covered by the screen. That area is the "HPOP reservoir" which means that the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) gets it oil from that location. When the HPOP sucks that oil in, you don't want it taking a drink of brake cleaner.
After cleaning the cavity above the screen, remove the screen. This is where you MUST be very very careful about dropping stuff and getting dirt in here. The HPOP reservoir must be absolutely surgically clean. No hair, dust, lint. Nothing. When you get that clean, put the new screen over the reservoir, pour in 9 tenths of a quart of oil and cover the cavity until you are ready to drop the new oil cooler into place.
To explain the reason for the cleanliness required:
Anything that gets sucked up by the HPOP is sent to the IPR (injection pressure regulator) where it can wreak havoc with the High pressure oiling system. Nothing you want to tangle with if you don't have to.


When you go to put the turbo back in, have the clamp on the flange of the turbo, butting up against the body of the turbo. Then get the y-pipe set into the turbo perfectly. You might want to run your finger around the connection to make sure it is right. Then while holding the connection together, get the clamp on the connection and tighten it just enough to hold the connection together, but don't tighten it to spec just yet. This is where you have to make sure that the up-pipes on both sides of the truck are lined up with the exhaust manifolds and tighten those connections down finger tight. Then go back up and tighten the clamp on the turbo to spec, then go back and tighten the exhaust manifold connections. This is the best way to get it done right the first time. It really sucks if you have to take this all apart because of a leak. Keep in mind that the clamp on the turbo to y-pipe connection is only there to hold it in place once the connection is properly set and perfect.


Before starting, preclean the top of the engine if you can. Use compressed air to blow any residual dust/dirt away from the intake to head connection.
Clean everything as it comes off the truck. You don't want dirt falling into any part of the engine.


I recommend that updated fuel pressure regulator spring be installed while doing this for two reasons. One is that you will have the whole fuel regulator housing off the truck and in your hand and it is VERY easy to install the necessary parts.
Second is that the stock fuel pressure regulator spring is well known to weaken over time and that may allow the fuel pressure to fall to a dangerously low condition. Get the fuel pressure below 45psi and you will be replacing injectors. They aren't cheap.


The turbo oil supply line recommendation is because the stock line with the flexible stainless steel joint in it can develop a restriction in the flex joint, choking off the oil supply. It is recommended for lengthen the life of your turbo.
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3C3Z-6A642-CA is the part number you want for the oil cooler. That is the cooler,the gasket and the screen. You will re-use the oil cooler cover that is on the truck now.

If you have decided to go with an EGR delete route, then order part number 3C3Z-9439-AA, but you need 2. (those are the intake gaskets, sold separately) and just one of part number 3C3Z-9T514-AG to get the turbo mounting hardware.
By going with the separate part numbers, and leaving out the EGR cooler replacement stuff you will not need, you will save about 50 bucks.
If you are going to keep an EGR cooler on your truck, order part number 3C3Z-9433-BE which gets you two intake manifold gaskets, the turbo mounting hardware, and all the stuff you will need to replace the EGR cooler.

For those of you that need to clean your turbo as part of this repair, the part number for the Turbo Reconditioning Kit is 4C4Z-9V424-AA

There are some parts I recommend replacing, though they are not absolutely required.
One is the updated fuel regulator spring part number 6E7Z-9C165-B.
Should Tousley not have that number in stock, and getting that part number to you would require too much time, you can also order part number 3C3Z-9T517-AG which would still get you all the right parts for the regulator, but costs more due to getting some parts you will not necessarily need. The first part number will be around 38 bucks, the second around 52 bucks.

One other is the turbo oil supply line. You will need to go look at the turbo oil line on your truck right now. It is the line that attaches to the top of the turbo. If that oil line has a flexible stainless steel joint in it (most do) then it needs to be upgraded to the new style. The new style no longer has the flexible section in it. The reason is that the flex joint could become a restriction to the oil flow over time.
This is one I do not have the part number for. You can tell the guy that answers the phone at Tousley that you need the new "hardline" style. It will come with the o-ring and everything else you need to upgrade to this style.
If you have an early 03 engine: This oil supply line attaches to the oil cooler cover. The early 03 oil cooler cover is different than the rest of the years in this one area. The early 03 oil line attaching point has what appears to be a large nut on the oil line itself. If that is what you have, and wish to upgrade this oil line, you would need to purchase the entire oil cooler with cover (for an 04-up truck, they are all the same) and not just the oil cooler kit referenced above. Discuss this with Tousley Ford parts department should you have the old style oil cooler cover.
The newer style attachment of that oil line has a collar on the oil line which has a hole in the collar that a bolt passes through. This bolt threads into a hole on the oil cooler cover to hold the oil line in place.

You MIGHT need the updated oil drain line...If your truck is an 03 or 04, you will likely need the new style. The old style had crimping in the bends that slowed the oil flow exiting the turbo. That would cause the oil to overheat. That would cause premature wear in the turbo.

I have used Tousley Ford for every part since I bought my truck. Cheapest parts by far.
Tousley Ford phone number is 800-328-9552
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 6.0L Turbo Removal.pdf (738.0 KB, 3007 views)
File Type: pdf Intake Manifold.pdf (1.43 MB, 2943 views)
File Type: pdf Oil Cooler Removal.pdf (210.9 KB, 2695 views)
File Type: pdf Ford_Turbo cleaning.pdf (611.6 KB, 2344 views)
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post #2 of 4 Old 06-24-2011, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Additions to and edits for the above are welcomed from all. Feel free to post up


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post #3 of 4 Old 06-24-2011, 09:57 PM
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Sounds like a new sticky to me. THANKS!
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post #4 of 4 Old 06-25-2011, 06:16 AM
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Thanks for your contribution! I have moved this thread to the 6.0 Repair Help and stuck it. As thanks, I have upgraded your account to Premium membership. Thanks again!
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2005 F250, CCSB, 6.0 PSD, FX4 (The Sweet Unit-my truck is white)

Engine Mods: Fluidampr, CCV Reroute (Reinstated), 4" MBRP Exhaust, MTW Stage 1 Turbo, Bulletproof 53V FICM, BulletProof EGR Cooler, BulletProof Water Pump, Riff Raff Intercooler Boots, Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid, BulletProof All-Aluminum Radiator, BulletProof All-Aluminum Intercooler, BulletProof Oil Cooler System w/ Bypass Filter, SCT w/ Custom Tunes (TSD, DJ's, Innovative, Gearhead, QuickTricks)

Exterior Mods: Bilstein 5100 Shocks, Icon Adjustable Trac Bar, Firestone RideRite Air Bags, BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer, Aluminum Finned Differential Cover, Reese 16k Manual Slider 5th Wheel Hitch, Icon 2.5" Leveling Kit w/ F-350 rear blocks, 20" BMF Novakanes wrapped in 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers


2008 F350, CCLB, 6.4 PSD (Brad-the wife's truck is black)
Engine Mods: BulletProof EGR Coolers, BulletProof Water Pump, Riff Raff Intercooler Boots, BulletProof Oil Cooler System, H&S MiniMaxx w/ TSC Custom Tunes

Exterior Mods: Icon Shocks, Icon Adjustable Trac Bar, Reese 24k Manual Slider 5th Wheel Hitch, Icon 2.5" Leveling Kit, 20" wheels wrapped in 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers



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