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post #1 of 10 Old 01-20-2020, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Looking for opinions

Long story short...I'm traveling across the country and this truck is making me SUPER nervous.

The truck: 2003 f350 DRW studded, deleted, oringed heads

What I'm seeing:
Yesterday cruising at 70 my ficm base voltage was steady at 14 but then started dropping in the 13-13.5 range. Saw it drop to 12.5 once or twice. What it correlated to was I would see my 48 volts drop to 47-47.5 about every 15 seconds. Consistently, it's also dropping to 46 every few minutes.

Also seeing huge Delta's. But to be fair, my ect has consistently been in the 165-170 range. It's about 12 degrees outside. Eot stays around 180 unless I'm climbing a grade.

Maybe I'm being paranoid! But I wanted another opinion. I knew my batteries were old and may have contributed to that. Batteries were replaced back in Nebraska!

So what do y'all think, am I paranoid?

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post #2 of 10 Old 01-21-2020, 05:52 AM

 
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Voltage regulator in your alternator it usually what that points to.
post #3 of 10 Old 01-21-2020, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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I had been concerned that was going out as well. Voltage from the alternator stayed consistently 13.5 -13.9. I feel that's slightly low at 70 mph personally but others feel it's fine.

That alternator is less than 2 years old as well. Got me another 450 miles today. Guess we'll see what tomorrow holds in store.

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post #4 of 10 Old 01-21-2020, 06:47 PM

 
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Originally Posted by et_miller_87 View Post
I had been concerned that was going out as well. Voltage from the alternator stayed consistently 13.5 -13.9. I feel that's slightly low at 70 mph personally but others feel it's fine.

That alternator is less than 2 years old as well. Got me another 450 miles today. Guess we'll see what tomorrow holds in store.

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That is pretty normal. Nearly all alternators will charge at around 13.8 when the engine is at normal operating temps. When cold, they will be around 14.4 give or take .4

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post #5 of 10 Old 01-23-2020, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Well, it made it to our destination, 2500 miles without any real issues aside from the batteries, and my driver door window getting busted out.

As far as the alternator, I am still seeing drops in voltage down to 13. I may just go ahead and pull it and have it tested when I get back to my duty station.

I gotta say, when we left ohio, I whole heatedly expected to leave it in another state and ship it when it broke down. This is the first trip it hasn't left me stranded. Looks like all that headwork I did last year really did pay off.

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post #6 of 10 Old 01-23-2020, 11:01 AM
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Glad you made your destination

Those temps you mentioned would be about right since you are running the heater
people overlook how much the heater can pull out of the cooling system -- turn it off and the temps will stabilize

Possible you could have a ground or hot connection issue on the charging circuits
you can test by using your meter set to voltage -- headlights and heater on -- need to load the charge circuit
wait until the glow plugs are finished

make all measurements to the actual post rather than to the terminal
measure battery voltage post to post
measure alternator hot post to battery plus
measure alternator case to battery ground
measure alternator hot post to case

Compare the readings, should be less than 0.5 volt reading on the meter

In my defense, I was unsupervised
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post #7 of 10 Old 01-29-2020, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Hydro View Post
Glad you made your destination

Those temps you mentioned would be about right since you are running the heater
people overlook how much the heater can pull out of the cooling system -- turn it off and the temps will stabilize

Possible you could have a ground or hot connection issue on the charging circuits
you can test by using your meter set to voltage -- headlights and heater on -- need to load the charge circuit
wait until the glow plugs are finished

make all measurements to the actual post rather than to the terminal
measure battery voltage post to post
measure alternator hot post to battery plus
measure alternator case to battery ground
measure alternator hot post to case

Compare the readings, should be less than 0.5 volt reading on the meter
Appreciate it. I'll have to look into it once I get back to my new house. I'm back in Ohio to finish out my tour here for another month. Won't be back til April unfortunately.

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post #8 of 10 Old 01-30-2020, 05:47 AM
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If you have had battery or alternator problems for very long, expect FICM issues to be next.

Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; RACCCV6000; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in trans case; Fumoto valves; Harpooned; Blue regulator spring; DashDAQ; PHP FICM; RiffRaff boots; DCPower 270AXP; Power Inverter; Bilstein shocks; BPD EGR cooler, radiator, water pump; SCT w/ SRL+; Rotella ELC Ultra Coolant; X2Power AGM batteries
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Last edited by bismic; 01-30-2020 at 07:04 PM.
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post #9 of 10 Old 01-30-2020, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
If you have had battery or alternator problems. for very long, expect FICM issues to be next.
8ve gone through at least two alternators in the last 4 years. Batteries I just replaced are over 4 years old. I've been expecting ficm issues for awhile but thankfully haven't had them quite yet. But when I do I'll send in my powerboard and have it reworked

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post #10 of 10 Old 01-30-2020, 07:04 PM
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Low voltage can kill the logic side also.
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Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; RACCCV6000; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in trans case; Fumoto valves; Harpooned; Blue regulator spring; DashDAQ; PHP FICM; RiffRaff boots; DCPower 270AXP; Power Inverter; Bilstein shocks; BPD EGR cooler, radiator, water pump; SCT w/ SRL+; Rotella ELC Ultra Coolant; X2Power AGM batteries
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