Voltages During Startup - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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Voltages During Startup

06 F350 6.0. I am using Torque to monitor. My Motorcraft batteries are one year old and when fully charged read 12.8 volts each. With KOEO cold before start the battery voltages climbs from 10.8 to 11.1 while I wait for the glow plug light to go out. Cranking I saw 9.8 then jumps to 11.3 to 11.6 on start and first 20 seconds running. After about 45 sec or so in the 12's then finally hits 14.1 after glow plugs shut off.
The FICM main voltage during this time ranges 47 to 47.5 and then might hit 48.5 but usually runs 47.5 to 48. The FLP & FVP both start at 10.0 but climbs to 11.0 just before I crank it over. They both read 14v or so after glow plugs go out.
From reading some posts these voltages seem on the low side? How should I test to see if something is drawing down the voltage or do these seem ok?
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post #2 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 07:34 AM
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06 F350 6.0. I am using Torque to monitor. My Motorcraft batteries are one year old and when fully charged read 12.8 volts each. With KOEO cold before start the battery voltages climbs from 10.8 to 11.1 while I wait for the glow plug light to go out. Cranking I saw 9.8 then jumps to 11.3 to 11.6 on start and first 20 seconds running. After about 45 sec or so in the 12's then finally hits 14.1 after glow plugs shut off.

The FICM main voltage during this time ranges 47 to 47.5 and then might hit 48.5 but usually runs 47.5 to 48. The FLP & FVP both start at 10.0 but climbs to 11.0 just before I crank it over. They both read 14v or so after glow plugs go out.

From reading some posts these voltages seem on the low side? How should I test to see if something is drawing down the voltage or do these seem ok?
It is normal for voltages to drop when starting and stay low until the glow plugs go out. With that said those voltages seem a little on the low side. Use a batter tester to test each battery individually. Do not test with them still connected together. If you dont have one take the battery to a local parts store. They can usually check them for you. That is the first place to start.

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post #3 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 08:13 AM
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sounds like its using all of those cold cranking amps.

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So says the internet... ...and so it shall be.
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OK, thanks for the info. To show my ignorance, what is the problem with 3 nipples...
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post #4 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 09:32 AM
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I have seen 12.8v on a battery that then drops WAY down on a load test. Static voltage does not tell the story on a battery.
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post #5 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks I will start by getting the batteries checked out. Could be a problem even with them being one year old.
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post #6 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jjohnsonlta View Post
Thanks I will start by getting the batteries checked out. Could be a problem even with them being one year old.
I have had interstate batteries die on me twice. after less than a year in my RV. I had drained them down to 5 volts after parking the RV for a couple of weeks, and they never recovered. I now keep my truck on a trickle charger and remove my battery from the RV and keep it on a trickle charger.

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post #7 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Update

So before I charged batteries I checked voltage after start test. Both read 12.5v. I charged them both and they both read 12.8v. I now load tested both and they checked almost like new. There rated 1000cca at my temperature.
I did read a article that stated Fords were common to loose voltage thur the fuseable link. Wonder if that's going on or other problem.
Where should I go from here?
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post #8 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 06:42 PM
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Not all load testers are created equal, but short of ordering one for yourself, I don’t know what to do next. Maybe have them test it in the car, nut then again don’t think most parts store tester’s are built for a SUper Duty Dual Battery tester.

I think I had something like that happen last time where the battery would seem like it was cranking a little slower, but tested fine at the store. I tried adding a solar trickle charger, but eventually the batteries tested bad and I switched them. I also had AAA towing in case something happened away from the house. Might be all you can do is charge it when its off, plug it in to heat it, and have roadside assistance. To me that beats spending $250+ on two new batteries just in case.

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post #9 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 08:03 PM
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I (Redneck)load test in the truck -- pull the driver side battery
put your volt meter on the remaining battery and crank over
note the speed of the crank and the voltage

Swap the battery out and repeat -- the weak battery will show

The engine will start just fine on only one battery, if all is good
since yours is not starting ...I acknowledge there is a problem
just have to eliminate the easy stuff first
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post #10 of 15 Old 12-06-2019, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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No problem starting my truck. Just concern over low voltage reading Torque App showed on startup. Found these quotes on checking fusible links / cables to cross them off as being possible cause.


•"Measure voltage. Voltage drop through the fusible links is a common concern for all Ford vehicles, and the 6.0L diesel is very likely to have these concerns. With the vehicle running and the alternator charging under heavy load, measure the voltage at both batteries, the B+ post on the alternator, and on the sense wire of the alternator (pin 3 – reference image to your left). All four readings MUST be within 0.5 volts of each other. "



Primary causes of the high current draw include:
• Glow plugs
• FICM and injectors
• Fuel pump

Other high current accessories may include:
• Blower motor
• A/C compressor
• Windshield wipers
• Heated seats
• Add-on equipment

" The easiest way to check the fusible links or cable is check for 12v+ voltage engine off between the alternator positive output terminal and the alternator case or passenger battery negative terminal. If it's 12v+, the cable is good.
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