Crank no start then no power. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 10-18-2019, 12:13 PM Thread Starter Rookie
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Crank no start then no power.

So I usually rinse out my engine bay every few months. Done this with every truck I’ve owned. Never had any issues.

Did this yesterday to my 2005 f250 6.0 with 187,000 miles. I never soak the engine bay, I mainly do a light rinse.

Truck refused to start afterwards. Would crank, but not start. Code P2617 popped up. I wiggled some of the wires/ harness and still nothing.

Left the truck by a mechanic shop. So it could dry all afternoon and part of this morning. Went down there this morning and the batteries were drained.

Charged them, can only get one crank (barely) cycle out of them before I lose all power.

I had the problem narrowed down to the ICP, crankshaft sensor/ loom. Now I fear it’s worse than I thought.

There is oil pressure. Volts on battery are at 12.6ish + or - some decimals when initial crank begins, then they drop 3 to 5. Now it’s like something is sucking all the power from the batteries and killing the juice. They are barely a month old btw.

FICM? ICP? Alternator?

Any ideas?

The truck was perfect till the wash. Will NEVER use water in the engine bay again.
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post #2 of 4 Old 10-18-2019, 12:27 PM
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I'd start by getting the batteries tested, despite being new. From there, I'm thinking something is shorted because its wet, drawing so much current the batteries drop down to 3. Don't know what could be shorted, wiring, starter, etc... Perhaps the FICM is leaking like you mentioned. I doubt its the battery, but easier then troubleshooting an electrical problem.
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post #3 of 4 Old 10-18-2019, 12:43 PM
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Great advice on the batteries. Individually charge them, then individually load test them (any parts store will load test them for free). Simple voltage measurement is worthless.

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Last edited by bismic; 10-18-2019 at 12:59 PM.
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post #4 of 4 Old 10-19-2019, 05:00 PM
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If a battery pulls down to 3 volts after being fully charged, it's no good. New batteries go bad too. I find it really difficult to believe that you bought two batteries that are BOTH defective. Did you test them both? After you get two good batteries that will hold at least 12.4V AND pass a load test, check both positive and negative battery cables for voltage drop and resistance. Make sure all are clean and tight at both ends. You should not be dropping more than 0.5 volts through leakage, or measure more than 50 ohms of resistance. Once
you are sure that all that is in order, measure how much amperage the starter draws when cranking, if you are strill having issues. If it is pulling 500 amps or more, then you have a problem with the starter too. Good luck!
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