Cranks but runs rough. Help - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 09-24-2019, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Cranks but runs rough. Help

So long story but 2006 6.0 with 275000 miles. So truck was running rough and took it to the shop. They replace injector #1. Runs good for 5k miles. Them it starts running rough again and eventually won’t start. I take it back and they tell me I need a new Hpop. So I installed a new hpop. Basically same problem exists. Then I replace 7 injectors. While installing injectors we notice the #1 injector I had them replace is barely finger tight. Checked dummy plugs and standpipes they looked fine. Now it still isn’t running smooth. Longer it idles rougher it runs. Fuel pump sounds like it is sucking air so I replaced it with housing. Still sounds different. Dropped tank pickup looked fine. At wits end with this truck. It’s now been sitting a month and I have to get it running. Please help. Fuel delivery is suspect with the noise. If I check the fuel pressure and it’s good is there a chance that air can still be in the system. I’ve owned this truck since new and have never heard the pump sound like this. Thanks
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post #2 of 19 Old 09-24-2019, 06:41 PM
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I suspect one or more of your injectors aren't sealing well on the copper washer ...this can let combustion into the fuel rails and cause the rough idle you describe

You can remove the upper fuel filter cap, and using the starter jumper wire(key off) -- turn the engine over for 15 seconds a couple of times while watching for bubbles in the fuel bowl

A monitor app like Forscan or Torque Pro would help in diagnosing

In my defense, I was unsupervised
.
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Torque Pro and OBDLink MX bluetooth monitor
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post #3 of 19 Old 09-24-2019, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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I will run the test and respond. Thanks
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post #4 of 19 Old 09-25-2019, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Just ran the test. I’m getting a few bubbles like maybe 5/ crank. Some cranks 1-2bubbles. Is that a failed test? We did let it run rough for a while one time and got a cylinder 1 contribution code. I’m scared to run it for long running rough don’t want to hurt injectors. Again it cranks and sounds great for a minute or 2 then starts missing.
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post #5 of 19 Old 09-25-2019, 05:06 PM
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You shouldn't get any bubbles

Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; RACCCV6000; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in trans case; Fumoto valves; Harpooned; Blue regulator spring; DashDAQ; PHP FICM; RiffRaff boots; DCPower 270AXP; Power Inverter; Bilstein shocks; BPD EGR cooler, radiator, water pump; SCT w/ SRL+; Rotella ELC Ultra Coolant; X2Power AGM batteries
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post #6 of 19 Old 09-25-2019, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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So next step is to find which side is culprit and remove glow plugs one at a time until I get zero bubbles?
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post #7 of 19 Old 09-25-2019, 06:31 PM
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Identify which location the air is coming from in the bottom of the secondary fuel filter housing.
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Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; RACCCV6000; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in trans case; Fumoto valves; Harpooned; Blue regulator spring; DashDAQ; PHP FICM; RiffRaff boots; DCPower 270AXP; Power Inverter; Bilstein shocks; BPD EGR cooler, radiator, water pump; SCT w/ SRL+; Rotella ELC Ultra Coolant; X2Power AGM batteries
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post #8 of 19 Old 09-26-2019, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Identify which location the air is coming from in the bottom of the secondary fuel filter housing.
Just to add -- this will tell which fuel rail is creating the bubbles
the lines to each head exit the bowl in different spots

once you figure which head -- then pull the glow plugs(one at a time) to determine which cylinder
when you remove the injector for the "bad" cylinder -- pay close attention to the torque of the hold down bolt(leaking copper = loose bolt)
if the bolt is tight -- then the injector may be leaking inside the tip

I suggest re-torqueing all the injectors -- the can work loose over time
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In my defense, I was unsupervised
.
2006 F250 Lariat FX4 cclb
Torque Pro and OBDLink MX bluetooth monitor
General note:
For all those wanting a premium silicone sealer Kubota 70000-73764 is the best your gonna find. This is a hybrid gray silicone that uses solvent rather than acid to start the curing reaction, this makes it safe for aluminum and and any surface that involves coolant.
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post #9 of 19 Old 09-27-2019, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hydro View Post
Just to add -- this will tell which fuel rail is creating the bubbles
the lines to each head exit the bowl in different spots

once you figure which head -- then pull the glow plugs(one at a time) to determine which cylinder
when you remove the injector for the "bad" cylinder -- pay close attention to the torque of the hold down bolt(leaking copper = loose bolt)
if the bolt is tight -- then the injector may be leaking inside the tip

I suggest re-torqueing all the injectors -- the can work loose over time
Thank you for this post! I was too tired to add the detail and it probably was not a lot of help without the information you added!!!
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Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; RACCCV6000; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in trans case; Fumoto valves; Harpooned; Blue regulator spring; DashDAQ; PHP FICM; RiffRaff boots; DCPower 270AXP; Power Inverter; Bilstein shocks; BPD EGR cooler, radiator, water pump; SCT w/ SRL+; Rotella ELC Ultra Coolant; X2Power AGM batteries
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post #10 of 19 Old 09-27-2019, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Ran this test today on warm engine. First pic is koeo second pic is at idle third is at 2k rpm.
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