2004 E350 van hydrolocked - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-09-2019, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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2004 E350 van hydrolocked

I have a 2004 E350 van. Unfortunately I got this van after a lot of work has already been done. Right now I know there is antifreeze in the engine oil and I put two new batteries in and the engine did not want to crank but eventually did and antifreeze shut out of the exhaust where the V band clamps connect to the turbo. The dog house is off so I could see where it was coming from. After this happened I could crank the engine and it almost started but I decided at that point to stop trying.

I believe the EGR cooler is running antifreeze into the exhaust but I wanted to see if there is a way to test my theory before I start ripping this apart. Does anyone know how to test for this? If there is a spot on this forum with information on this problem and I missed it can someone please post a link and I apologize in advance thank you.
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post #2 of 8 Old 09-09-2019, 08:09 PM
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Pull the EGR valve and see if it’s a sludgy black or steam cleaned. This Indicates a leaking EGR. If clean, Park nose down overnight, pull the EGR valve and check for coolant. With it hydrolocked, might not be able to park downhill.

There’s other sources for coolant including head gaskets. I’d have to check the 6.0 bible, but leaking glow plug sleeves would cause one cylinder, and the EGR would be all.

Only way I know to check for a hydro lock is remove the glow plugs and crank to see which or which ones it spurts out from. Glow plugs can be a challenge to remove without the right special tool and the fragile harnesses.

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post #3 of 8 Old 09-10-2019, 01:22 AM
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Dog house is already off pull the rh up pipe off and check for coolant in the egr cooler. Egr cooler leak will usually lock up cylinders 5 or 7.
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-14-2019, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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thank you for all the good information so far. I do have a tow truck at my shop so I can move the van. I'm just very unfamiliar with working on 6.0 engines. I am going to look up more information on glow plug removal and also look into removing the EGR. I will update supposed as I get time to work on the truck. This just depends on how busy the shop is this week. Thanks again
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post #5 of 8 Old 09-16-2019, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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I want to prepare for the fact that most likely I'm going to have to replace the engine oil cooler and delete the EGR and EGR cooler. Most likely the glow plugs are going to be messed up from being turned on with antifreeze around them. What other parts what I need to complete this job?
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post #6 of 8 Old 11-02-2019, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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*just wanted to let everyone know the truck is back together and running good. I use the OEM engine oil cooler from Ford and a Spectra aftermarket EGR cooler. New OEM glow plugs as well. I decided since coolant contamination is the major culprit in EGR cooler and engine oil cooler failure to install a coolant filter from diesel site. It goes on the passenger side lower frame rail and since everything was a part that wasn't very difficult to install not that it would be anyway. With the air tube going to the air filter removed you could easily get to the lines you need to tap into. We removed the glow plugs in order to get all the antifreeze out of the cylinders which really wasn't much at this point somehow. The driver side glow plugs are a real pain in the butt but with some patients at a small quarter inch Drive wrench it can be done. The Ford manual says to remove the engine to replace the driver side glow plugs. Good thing we removed them because they were Autolite crap. Friends don't let friends install Autolite glow plugs. The truck took a long time to start part of that reason was because we didn't fill engine oil up all the way. I was going to due to oil changes since I thought there might be some antifreeze in there so I was being cheap and only put about 12 quarts in there. I guess we weren't getting oil pressure to run the injection. It finally started but we noticed it took a lot of cranking time before the engine would fire even when warm. Moral of the story is make sure your oil it's at the proper level. This truck starts up very easily when cold and I'm very happy with it so far. There was a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust even after this was all done and the engine was warm especially after revving it up. It had me worried but now after running the engine several times it has cleared up. I believe a combination of antifreeze being in the exhaust and old fuel from this truck sitting for years caused this issue. The old air filter was completely clogged with soot. I got a new air filter but I have been so busy so I still have to install that. Next is the hood latch front bumper horn and Grille. Forgot to mention that the other problem with starting the engine was that the new batteries that I had bought three months ago or not very happy. I load tested them and one was completely shot and the other one was only holding about four hundred amps even after charging both of them. They were covered under warranty and no problem since. What other o-ring ripped going to the engine oil cooler which was also contributing to the hard starting. I got a new one from Ford which cost $23 too much and that fix the leak. I believe it was yellow. when the job was all done before we started it will you pressure test of the cooling system to make sure that we didn't have the same issue we started with. So far everything is been great. Once I get the front end of the truck cosmetically together I'll bring it out for a road test. Right now I have so many things going on and this is going to be a spare vehicle so the rest will be finished only when time allows.
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post #7 of 8 Old 01-15-2020, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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I got the front end put back together and took the truck for a test drive. It runs and drives excellent
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-17-2020, 03:57 AM
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Thanks fir keeping us updated. Glad it all went your way.

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