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P0284 Code 2006 F350 6.0 Diesel 100K miles

9K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  ed2hess 
#1 ·
This engine was in a shop that replaced several things including all the injectors on the 2-4-6-8 side. New oil cooler and egr and low wiring. Engine ran great for a few days then got P0284. They found that the lower fuel filter had gunk and replaced. The engine ran fine for a few days and then P0284. I put a pressure gage on top filter lid and the pressure is 56psi idling and running down the road. My plan is to pull the lower filter and check for gunk and replace. Run and see what happens. Next I plan to pump fuel out of tank....and rinse it with something. Question: Am I on the right track?
 
#2 ·
... Question: Am I on the right track?
Not in my opinion. You just had a shop replace - among other things - your #8 injector and now only days later you have a cyl #8 contribution/balance code. I'd take the truck back to whomever did the work and tell them to make it right.

Maybe it is something as simple as a bent FICM pin or loose injector connector, but why make it your problem? You paid them to make it their problem.
 
#3 ·
I am trying to save money by doing some things i can handle. Does the constant fuel pressure reduce the chances of junk in tank causing this problem? I will check lower filter tomorrow. Assuming good connection on # 8 injector and no pins bent on the 3 FICM connectors will the next thing be new FICM? Please give me some help,
 
#4 ·
I'm not saying pay the people who fixed your truck to look at this problem. I'm saying that they owe it to you to address this as part of the work for which they have already been paid. If you choose to make this your problem, it will become your problem.

I'm just one person and I don't own a shop. But I don't think that you have a fuel problem. You have a wiring problem or an injector installation problem. Both of those fall under the responsibility of your shop.

If not that, to chase that code, I would have a contribution/balance and compression test done. You could swap the FICM it first, if you had a spare to borrow. I wouldn't buy one to replace without more to go on.

But, again, I'm offering my opinion, only.

Go here:

https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/g...missions-diagnosis-service-manual-2004-a.html

..and look up the code on the end of Section 4. Then go to the listed Pinpoint Test in Section 5. That will describe the possible issues and remedies.
 
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#5 ·
The FICM have to be programmed for vehicle so I can't swap one from our other 6.0 truck right? Considering the amount of money to date a new FICM from amazon for $499 not a big deal. I am a little concerned about unhooking the FICM connectors. Seems tricky .....finding good diesel shop hard this is second one on this problem..2 months. Might bite bullet and go Ford dealer.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I wouldn't even think about a FICM from Amazon. You can get your existing FICM upgraded at FICM repair.com and have a very reliable unit. The cost is about the same - maybe even less.

A FICM does not have to be programmed for a specific engine.

Just remember, you have a contribution code and not an electrical code.
 
#6 ·
What kind of injectors were used as replacements? I also do not believe you have a fuel issue that is causing your problem. Have you checked the pins on the injector plug? I have seen those back out and cause intermittent problems. What voltage is your ficm running? Does it drop below 48? I have also seen bad reman injectors out of the box.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
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#7 · (Edited)
To get voltage on FICM remove cap with 2 screws and then measure one of the four screws relative to ground? With engine running I assume. I will try to get brand of injectors...Assuming FICM voltage is above 48 volts and no pins out does that rule out FICM. Is there an tip for disconnecting those three connectors on the FICM? One Utube had caution?
 
#8 ·
Could I expect a good diesel shop to install circuit board into FICM to hold down cost. Not necessarily one from amazon. BTW.......a month ago a diesel shop didn't tighten the nut on back of alternator and batteries drained down completely. Goggle says that can damage FICM?
 
#11 ·
Is you tank a steel tank or plastic? The steel tanks delaminate and need to be replaced. The plastic ones should not have this kind of an issue unless you really got some bad fuel.

You need 45 psig even at WOT. Is yours an electronic gauge that you can monitor at WOT?
 
#14 · (Edited)
#13 ·
I find a little bit of grit on my fuel filters when I changed them, which is normal. With 10000 miles and 1000 gallons of diesel going through it, I think that would be fine. Has happened before and after I swapped my tank. When I swapped my tank, I found a black carbon substance caked up in the HFCM before the filter. The shop that changed my tank said it was regular to see that carbon build up and they thought it was from between the big tankers getting offloaded and the final delivery to the pumps a little of the carbon gets left in the diesel and the filter does its job to take out the few pieces of carbon left in the thousands of gallons that has went through the HFCM. So, without seeing the grit, I may think its normal. At first I thought the tank was delaminating and that is why I had it swapped, but I actually had the plastic tank which does not delaminate.

For things like saving money by swapping a board, that's not always a good idea with a shop doing that because usually the labor is many times the price of the parts, kind of like saving a hundred dollars on an oil cooler off a 10 hour shop job. Too much of a risk in saving a few dollars in the short run and biting you in the long run. I do think that as mentioned pulling it yourself and sending it to FICM.com may be good, if the FICM truly is bad. As far as measuring the FICM, you can do it without a monitor, but only with KOEO, and starting, but you can't do that driving down the road. It may have volts KOEO, starting, but drop while driving. Really need a monitor, but even with that, it can get you in the ballpark, but not to exactly where you want to go.
 
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#15 ·
Tank is steel. I seen a few short strings of black material and I think that is delam. This gritty stuff is like grit on rough sand paper. It is mainly above average diesel fuel level. None on bottom part of tank. I got all loose stuff vac up. I am going with as-is short term....filter should get that kind of debris. I will keep checking the filters. I never seen any plastic fuel tanks?
 
#16 · (Edited)
The chassis cab had a steel tank. the regular F-series all had plastic tanks and the coating would delaminate - especially if filled w/ bad fuel (water). These had "after the axle" fuel tanks. The filters should catch it, but you will most likely have low fuel pressure and/or restricted flow w/ it. Biodiesel was especially bad for the coating.

 
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