fuel filter change question - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 08-23-2019, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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fuel filter change question

Hey all,

I am new to the Powerstroke diesels and I am learning a lot, but ran into a question while changing the fuel filters today.

I started on top and added the Blue Spring upgrade from Sinister at the same time. The directions, as well as online videos, stated that I'd want to suck out the fuel from the filter bowl before pulling the old spring housing. But after I pulled the cap, it all drained out on its own. The rest of that part went as expected.

Then I moved to the filter under the frame rail. I backed out the water separator plug and it drained for a long time and just kept coming. I finally screwed it back in and pulled off the cap. Again, it just kept draining fuel. After I had caught more than half a gallon without seeing it slow down, I tossed in the new filter and closed it up.

Do I have an issue that should be addressed? Is there some sort of check valve that is not working?

Thanks

Edit: I should add that this is an '05 truck

Last edited by VashonFarmer; 08-23-2019 at 07:24 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 08-23-2019, 09:22 PM
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So, i've had my first diesel 6 months now, I've only changed my filters out once so far so i can give reference mostly, '05 f250. The water separator plug did take a while to completely drain, but it was a slow drain and not even a 1/4 of a gallon when complete. The rail fuel filter housing did drain some fuel but nothing like a 1/2 gallon+. There should be some loss, as the procedure requires you to prime the system again with the key a few times.
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post #3 of 12 Old 08-24-2019, 08:26 AM
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I know with my '05, if I have a full tank (or close to), it will drain WAY more fuel (1-2 quarts) than if i'm below 1/2 tank. I usually try to time my fuel filter changes when i'm below 1/2 tank (closer to 1/4). Seems to drain a lot less (1/2 quart or so). I have also heard from others that if you're not on level ground, that can affect it as well, so I do mine on my level garage floor for that reason too. Plus, my wife LOVES the smell of diesel as it wafts into the house LOL

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post #4 of 12 Old 08-24-2019, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I was on flat ground, but I had also just topped the tank. The good news is that after it's all back together and driving, everything seems just fine. Running great and I checked for any new DTC codes. All good. I'll try to time the next job with less in the tank.

I am glad I'm going thru all of this after picking up the truck. So far, all the filters I've swapped were cheap aftermarket. I'll go ahead and do the transmission soon.

Cheers
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post #5 of 12 Old 08-24-2019, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by VashonFarmer View Post
Thanks guys. I was on flat ground, but I had also just topped the tank. The good news is that after it's all back together and driving, everything seems just fine. Running great and I checked for any new DTC codes. All good. I'll try to time the next job with less in the tank.

I am glad I'm going thru all of this after picking up the truck. So far, all the filters I've swapped were cheap aftermarket. I'll go ahead and do the transmission soon.

Cheers
Yup - try <1/2 tank next time and you should be good.

-jokester
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post #6 of 12 Old 08-24-2019, 10:19 AM
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Just something to watch for since I always tried to do my own fuel filter swaps also. I usually had a heck of a time getting the one on the frame all the way tight. The truck would be fine for any where from a few weeks to possibly a month or so then I would have trouble starting the truck. The filter on the frame would loosen just enough to start sucking air and giving me issues. Caused for many embarrassing trips to the shop for diagnosing a no start issue for something silly not to mention probably some harm to injectors with sucking air.

Not a huge issue but just something keep an eye on with doing your own changes.
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post #7 of 12 Old 08-24-2019, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kbnw15 View Post
Just something to watch for since I always tried to do my own fuel filter swaps also. I usually had a heck of a time getting the one on the frame all the way tight. The truck would be fine for any where from a few weeks to possibly a month or so then I would have trouble starting the truck. The filter on the frame would loosen just enough to start sucking air and giving me issues. Caused for many embarrassing trips to the shop for diagnosing a no start issue for something silly not to mention probably some harm to injectors with sucking air.

Not a huge issue but just something keep an eye on with doing your own changes.
Thanks for that! It's those little things that make so much difference between a minor issue and a major PITA.
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post #8 of 12 Old 08-24-2019, 12:54 PM
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Thanks for that! It's those little things that make so much difference between a minor issue and a major PITA.
And yet, another reason to have a fuel pressure gauge...

-jokester
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post #9 of 12 Old 08-24-2019, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jokester00 View Post
And yet, another reason to have a fuel pressure gauge...

-jokester
About that...

I am using DashCommand and still have a lot to learn about it. But I see that it has a PID for Fuel Rail pressure. Will that give me what I need to know, or is this about plugging into the fuel filter bowl with a real gauge?
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post #10 of 12 Old 08-24-2019, 04:57 PM
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The engine does not have a way to monitor fuel pressure natively -- so the easiest thing todo is an electronic pressure gauge and digital sender

There is a factory tap on the fuel bowl(10mm thread I think) -- others use a tapped fuel filter cap for the sender
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