05 F250 Turbo woes - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 60 Old 07-23-2019, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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05 F250 Turbo woes

05 F250 6.0L, 221K miles. EGR deleted a couple of years ago. Otherwise stock vehicle. Weeks ago I noticed the boost pressure would only get to about 10-12 psi. Since then the max pressure has decreased steadily. No codes throughout this time (verified with a friendís scan tool while diagnosing FICM issue). Fast forward to this morning; Check engine light is on and the max pressure now is 1-2 psi. I can still hear the turbo spinning, but itís not spinning like it used to (that what my ears tell me anyway). The vehicle runs fine, just doesn't "go".
First question is what scan tool should I buy. I hate to bother my friend with my problems and I need to get the codes to see if they are related at all to the turbo problem. Second question is do the above symptoms point to anything known?

When repairing the FICM issue mentioned above, I inspected the hot & cold side of the intake system and didnít find any cracks or holes.

Ryan
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post #2 of 60 Old 07-23-2019, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryans Rebel View Post
05 F250 6.0L, 221K miles. EGR deleted a couple of years ago. Otherwise stock vehicle. Weeks ago I noticed the boost pressure would only get to about 10-12 psi. Since then the max pressure has decreased steadily. No codes throughout this time (verified with a friendís scan tool while diagnosing FICM issue). Fast forward to this morning; Check engine light is on and the max pressure now is 1-2 psi. I can still hear the turbo spinning, but itís not spinning like it used to (that what my ears tell me anyway). The vehicle runs fine, just doesn't "go".

First question is what scan tool should I buy. I hate to bother my friend with my problems and I need to get the codes to see if they are related at all to the turbo problem. Second question is do the above symptoms point to anything known?



When repairing the FICM issue mentioned above, I inspected the hot & cold side of the intake system and didnít find any cracks or holes.



Ryan
If you are sure you have no leaks in any boots or the inter cooler, pull the air intake tube from the turbo and check the shaft for any play. As for a code reader I would buy a bluetooth OBD2 adaptor and get the torque pro app on an android device. Also, I would check your up pipes to make sure you dont have an exhaust leak there. The bellows tend to blow on those also.

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post #3 of 60 Old 07-23-2019, 01:43 PM
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If you pull the air filter and spin the turbo, it should be a little "stiff" to start, but spin freely and quietly. Also, you should not be able to move it in and out and very, very little side to side. You can also check the exhaust gas manifolds where they meet the engine for black carbon. The carbon means they're leaking and at least mean gaskets need to be added.
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post #4 of 60 Old 07-24-2019, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letsmow10 View Post
If you are sure you have no leaks in any boots or the inter cooler, pull the air intake tube from the turbo and check the shaft for any play. As for a code reader I would buy a bluetooth OBD2 adaptor and get the torque pro app on an android device. Also, I would check your up pipes to make sure you dont have an exhaust leak there. The bellows tend to blow on those also.

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How can I check the inter cooler for leaks? I will have a look at the up pipes tonight. I'll also remove the intake and check the shaft for play and see that it spins.

Ryan
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post #5 of 60 Old 07-24-2019, 12:17 PM
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How can I check the inter cooler for leaks? I will have a look at the up pipes tonight. I'll also remove the intake and check the shaft for play and see that it spins.

Ryan
DTR in this video can explain it better than I can type it...

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post #6 of 60 Old 07-25-2019, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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I visually checked the up pipes and don't see any problems. However, at the connection at the rear of the turbo I see a little black at the clamp (see pic). Would this indicate a leak?

Next i pulled the air filter and did a pressure check of the charge air system. To my surprise I found a crack on the plastic tube on the cold side. I visually inspected this very well, but not well enough obviously. Local dealer has on in stock. Any reason i should not stick with OEM?

Lastly, it appears that there is an oil leak that may be starting at the underside of the turbo. It that even possible? See pic.

Ryan
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post #7 of 60 Old 07-25-2019, 08:27 AM
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For the black soot around the turbo downpipe, that would require loosening something like the band, wiggling it together, lightly tightening the band, and then wiggling it again, lightly tighten and repeat to seat the up pipe. That won't effect loss of boost, but it is an exhaust, but once the exhaust leaves the turbo to go down the tube, the exhaust's job of building boost is done. IMO, you can hold off on fixing this, depending on how much exhaust you're getting in the cab.

For the plastic broken pipe, it'd probably be worth the wait to order a metal one on line. When I replaced mine I went with metal. Maybe going with plastic, you'll get another 13 years out of the new plastic pipe. It's hard to visually inspect the whole thing, you just can;t see underneathit anyway.

For the leak, be sure to isolate it real well. It can be leaking from the turbo drain pipe either at the turbo ro where the drain tube enters the engine. When pulling mine, I always put new seals on, and one of the reasons I hate putting the turbo in so much is aligning the turbo oil drain tube. Oil leakks are so hard to find and among many other likey places it could be is the turbo oil feed tube or the oil pressure sensor or even the oil cooler O-Ring.

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post #8 of 60 Old 07-25-2019, 08:29 AM
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I wouldn't put a plastic one back on it, I'd replace it with the metal pipe and boots from an '03-'04 year model. You might want to get the updated oil feed line while you're at it. The braided lines can fail internally and starve the turbo from oil.

Metal cold side pipe: 6C3Z 6C640 AA I believe it comes with boots and clamps, but you would need to verify that with @fordsvtparts or @voodooridr

Updated feed line: 3C3Z 9T516 A
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post #9 of 60 Old 07-25-2019, 08:47 AM
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Close, 6C3Z-6C646-A on the CAC
3C3Z-9T516-A is correct for the feed tube which reminds me I need to change mine

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post #10 of 60 Old 07-25-2019, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryans Rebel View Post
I visually checked the up pipes and don't see any problems. However, at the connection at the rear of the turbo I see a little black at the clamp (see pic). Would this indicate a leak?



Next i pulled the air filter and did a pressure check of the charge air system. To my surprise I found a crack on the plastic tube on the cold side. I visually inspected this very well, but not well enough obviously. Local dealer has on in stock. Any reason i should not stick with OEM?



Lastly, it appears that there is an oil leak that may be starting at the underside of the turbo. It that even possible? See pic.



Ryan
I agree with everything thats been posted. Go with a metal pipe just to be safe. The oil leak is likely just o-rings leaking on the drain tube. I never reuse them when I pull a turbo because i just dont want to take the risk of then leaking. When you decide to fix that leak you will also be in a good position to fix the exhaust leak you have but as already mentioned that will not affect boost. Thats the busted CAC pipe causing that.

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2003 Excursion Limited 6.0 PSD 4x4 6" lift 35x12.50x20
KDD Long block, KDD O-ringed heads, Colt stage 2 cam, Mahle .020" pistons, ARP head studs,
OE oil cooler and LPOP. OdawgS3, HD up-pipes, Performace valve springs, 190/30 WDI, Marty's Reg return & NeverStranded v2 Fuel System, Adrenaline HPOP, TSD tunes, KC Stage2
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