Failed turbo - Sitting on the side of I-95 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 53 Old 05-25-2019, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Failed turbo - Sitting on the side of I-95

Well, sitting on the side of I-95 with a blown turbo. I blew hole in a boot last weekend and replaced them all this morning with RiffRaff boots. I stepped on the throttle to merge into traffic and the turbo started to squeal and I lost almost all my boost. Pulled over and I can hear the vane hitting the housing (sounds like a tin can) through the air intake. Pulled the intake to confirm and the vanes wobble around side to side. I have also now broken the nipple off the radiator for the degas hose. Waiting on a roll back and thinking/taking suggestions on rebuilding the turbo or buying a new one. Looks like ill be needeing a radiator too. Anyone have suggestions on either? Or maybe just a new truck.

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post #2 of 53 Old 05-25-2019, 06:42 PM
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Get a new turbo, likely the vanes are damaged beyond use in yours anyways -- I have seen the nipple replaced by a brass 1/8" pipe thread one, works well save getting a new radiator

Curious why the turbo bearings went out -- low oil pressure/bad turbo lube hose? -- not warming up the turbo or cooling it down after a run?

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post #3 of 53 Old 05-25-2019, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hydro View Post
Get a new turbo, likely the vanes are damaged beyond use in yours anyways -- I have seen the nipple replaced by a brass 1/8" pipe thread one, works well save getting a new radiator



Curious why the turbo bearings went out -- low oil pressure/bad turbo lube hose? -- not warming up the turbo or cooling it down after a run?
I will look into that fix for the radiator. Hopefully that will buy me some time. Im not sure why it failed. It could be a combination of 200k miles and any of the above. I always try to take it easy until warm and not shut it down until egts are 400 degrees. Anyway to check oil flow before I just drop another one back in? That would for sure suck to put a new one on only to have another issue.

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post #4 of 53 Old 05-25-2019, 06:54 PM
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Would be good to check the engine oil pressure with a gauge

Replace that turbo lube hose for sure, they can collapse inside and you get low flow -- the flex line, if yours has the solid line // ignore
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post #5 of 53 Old 05-25-2019, 07:00 PM
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Need a 5/16 drill or better yet a step bit to bore our the radiator where the nipple broke off -- a regular drill bit can grab in the plastic and may tear, want a nice round hole

1/8 inch pipe tap only about half way in(tap is tapered, don't want the hole too big) -- don't get over jealous with tightening the brass nipple, no need to split out the hole

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post #6 of 53 Old 05-25-2019, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hydro View Post
Need a 5/16 drill or better yet a step bit to bore our the radiator where the nipple broke off -- a regular drill bit can grab in the plastic and may tear, want a nice round hole



1/8 inch pipe tap only about half way in(tap is tapered, don't want the hole too big) -- don't get over jealous with tightening the brass nipple, no need to split out the hole
I will give this a try for sure. Appreciate the suggestion.

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post #7 of 53 Old 05-25-2019, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hydro View Post
Would be good to check the engine oil pressure with a gauge



Replace that turbo lube hose for sure, they can collapse inside and you get low flow -- the flex line, if yours has the solid line // ignore
I do have the braided flex line. Maybe i will replace it. I will get a gauge on it just to double check. I know it doesn't mean anything but for what its worth, the engine has about 20k miles on it and had a new OEM lpop put on at the same time.

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OE oil cooler and LPOP. OdawgS3, HD up-pipes, Performace valve springs, 190/30 WDI, Marty's Reg return & NeverStranded v2 Fuel System, Adrenaline HPOP, TSD tunes, KC Stage2
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post #8 of 53 Old 05-25-2019, 08:05 PM
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The rubber inside the braided cover can swell and cut off flow to the turbo. I think the only way to measure oil pressure is from the port on the oil cooler, so that won't tell about oil through the hose. Replacing that braided hose with a solid line is the easiest thing you can do to bulletproof the truck. They're available for around $30 shipped.

I tried the brass threaded nipple with epoxy, and it didn't work for me. I ended up getting a new radiator. I wish you better luck on that fix than I had. Works for others. Brass is supposed to be rated to around 160F, so its not rated for our coolant systems since ECT should be at least 195 when warmed up. Plenty of people use brass in our coolant systems and I've never heard anyone says it broke on them. I've looked for stainless steel, but if you can find it, it's pricey.

I think you need a 3/8" barded to male adapter for the radiator. I also just built a pressure gauge to test head gaskets, and on both of the smaller radiator hoses, I used a brass 3/8" tee with worm clamps. For the male side you'll be putting in the radiator, they're available in different sizes. In my area, ACE hardware had a much better selection of brass attachments than the bigger hardware stores.
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post #9 of 53 Old 05-25-2019, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. Just got it towed home. Im going to call it a night and maybe tomorrow it will all have been a bad dream.

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post #10 of 53 Old 05-25-2019, 10:57 PM
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Not sure where @ChrisSki got the figures, but brass melts at about 1700 degrees F -- so pretty sure it will be OK -- besides that brass is used to make heavy duty radiators for years
"Brass is supposed to be rated to around 160F, so its not rated for our coolant systems"

Epoxy with the heat is a nono, unless you have high temp mixture, but those are picky about sticking to plastics(radiator shell)

Reason I suggest 1/8 pipe is the amount of threads that will engage the plastic radiator shell are the greatest of the pipe sizes
The 1/8 x 3/8 nipple is pretty common either at the hardware or auto parts like Napa -- Amazon has them

I suppose it depends on how much of the plastic radiator shell is left to make threads in -- if it broke out a chunk or not -- could use a "nut" on the inside with a washer on the outside for a physical connection
K, I need to sleep -- good luck on the fix and sorry you had the break down, stranded is always a pain
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In my defense, I was unsupervised
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Torque Pro and OBDLink MX bluetooth monitor
General note:
For all those wanting a premium silicone sealer Kubota 70000-73764 is the best your gonna find. This is a hybrid gray silicone that uses solvent rather than acid to start the curing reaction, this makes it safe for aluminum and and any surface that involves coolant.
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