GLOW PLUG PROBLEMS - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 01-13-2019, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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GLOW PLUG PROBLEMS

Sorry for the mis-information on my last thread. I am going to start from the beginning again.

I am having an issue starting my truck (2007 F250) since it got cold out this year. I have no issues if it is plugged in but it won't hardly start if it is cold. I finally got some time the other day to run a scan on it with my scanning program and it initially had errors ( The P067x codes) on cylinders 1,2,3,4,5,6,8. I did a quick check on the ODD bank and all the plugs checked fine checking at the pigtail for the harness ( small black 4 pin plug) I got a range from .2 - around 1.0 ohms. According to what I have read that should be fine. I did not check the drivers bank at that point as I figured since 1, 3 and 5 had codes then I should have seen something show up there. At that point I got ahold of a new GPCM, since from all the info I had read that is likely what would cause the issue. No improvement other than after clearing the codes and cycling the plugs a few times I got codes for 1,2,3,4,5,6 and 8. For whatever reason plug 7 was not getting the code now. Whatever. I still had codes off both banks so I was a bit confused. That is when I posted my previous thread.

So today, I had some time finally to really dig into it deeper. I had spent some time going over what you guys had told me in the previous thread and then scoured the internet for some more info as well. I now have traced my wiring and checked everything at the small black plugs and then checked the resistance from the GPCM plugs to the plugs for the glow plug harnesses.

I checked the GPCM plug connectors and they all look perfectly clean and nice and tight. I then checked the resistance from the GPCM plug to the plug for the harness and got pretty much no resistance on any of the wires. So that should be good.

Next I checked ALL of the plugs through the harness plug. Here is what I got.

1 - 0.2 ohms
3 - 0.4 ohms
5 - 0.4 ohms
7 - 0.8 ohms

2 - 25.3 ohms
4 - 16.6 ohms
6 - 11.9 ohms
8 - 0.2 ohms

So then it would appear that plugs 2, 4, and 6 are bad. However I am still questioning why I would be getting codes on all of them beside 6, and 7 now. I think 6 is technically on the verge of being out of spec so maybe on just a couple of cycles it worked ok enough to drop out of the codes? But still I was getting codes on all of the good plugs except 7. So even though I may have an idea of what plugs are bad, I am still confused. I am also wondering if there is a chance I have an issue with the harness on the drivers side itself since I have only had the plugs in and the new harnesses on for less than 10,000 miles. Maybe a defect? But even at that, why the codes on the other bank?

While you experts mull this over and hopefully give me some next step advice I am going to go pull the wires off the plugs on the drivers side for now and see what kind of readings I get at the plugs themselves. Hopefully I won't break them, they aren't too old and I do have the puller tool.... but I know how well the old ones came out. Again Thank you all in advance for the help. I actually sort of enjoy working on this thing myself.
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post #2 of 9 Old 01-13-2019, 11:07 AM
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I imagine you are going to do this, but I dont recall seeing it mentioned. While you have it disconnected check the harness for resistance from where it connects to the plugs back to where it connects to the control module.
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post #3 of 9 Old 01-13-2019, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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I did. It was good. 0 on all but one and it was only 0.1
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post #4 of 9 Old 01-13-2019, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Interesting Findings!

OK so I got sidetracked a bit but I now have pulled all the plugs on the driver side. I am not sure what is going on here is what I found so far.

Cyl 2: Plug was not super tight, I know they were all torqued to spec when I assembled. Tip of plug was bent looking a little bit. Checked continuity, it was good, even though the original test was bad. Maybe because it wasn't tight? Hooked the plug to a spare battery to see what it would do. Just barely got warm.

Cyl 4: Same thing except tip of plug looked fine. Checked the same and did the same when on the battery.

Cyl 6: Basically all the same results as the first two, tip looked like it had a bulge in it.

Cyl 8: This one actually ohmed 0 it was tight in the head. tip looked fine. Put it on the battery and the shank right where the tip goes into it got red hot, but the tip only got warm.

I was concerned about possibly have gotten the wrong plugs as I read the 2003 plugs were a touch longer. Maybe hitting the pistons. I checked them to the ones I had taken out ( I'm a hoarder and kept them, thank god) and they are exactly the same. So now I am thinking maybe they all have an internal problem from the factory and are all shorting out inside or something. I don't know that it would explain the differences in the testing I got on them, since they all seemed to be OK for the most part checking with an ohm meter. However these are the side of the engine that was checking bad off the harness. The harness by the way seems fine. And I even got it off without breaking it.

I guess I will just put the old ones back in, they all seem to work fine from what I have checked so far. I tried them on a battery and they all heat up fine on the tip like they are supposed to.

I will post more when I get the other side off to let you know what I find there. Cylinder 7 is the only one that never threw a fault. I am curious to see how it checks out.
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post #5 of 9 Old 01-13-2019, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Other side 2, 4 and 6 were all basically the same as the others. Cylinder 7 however worked fine. So I am guessing I found the problem.

Now just an observation I had was that on at least one of these, the end where the harness plugs in was loose. and when I heated the plug oil was bubbling out. So... maybe they leaked oil down inside of them and messed them up? Kind of strange. I didn't check this when I was putting them in originally but why would I have?

I guess ill put the old ones in and see what happens. They all test out ok.
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post #6 of 9 Old 01-13-2019, 02:22 PM
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There are two heating coils inside the glow plugs, one can go bad and still glow but do it like you observed.

Fluid inside will cause the tip to bulge from expansion pressure.

Snap the tip off one of the bad plugs and look at the insulating powder, it should be dry and white.

Sounds like the GPCM was working like it is supposed to in finding faults

In my defense, I was unsupervised
.
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post #7 of 9 Old 01-14-2019, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Put the old plugs in and everything is fine now. Well except that pesky injector that likes to stick when its cold. But otherwise it seems to be good to go.
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post #8 of 9 Old 01-14-2019, 05:44 PM
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What brand are the "bad" plugs? and what brand did you replace with? May help someone doing a search on glow plug failure

In my defense, I was unsupervised
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2006 F250 Lariat FX4 cclb
Torque Pro and OBDLink MX bluetooth monitor
General note:
For all those wanting a premium silicone sealer Kubota 70000-73764 is the best your gonna find. This is a hybrid gray silicone that uses solvent rather than acid to start the curing reaction, this makes it safe for aluminum and and any surface that involves coolant.
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-06-2019, 07:55 AM
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Were the glow plugs OEM?

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