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  #1  
Old 02-05-2014, 01:16 PM
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Summer Wheel/Tire Advice for F350 Platinum SRW Owner

Well, I know it is early for these parts of the country, but I am already looking into possibilities for summer wheels and tires for my recently aqquired 2014 F350 Crew (Platinum, 4x4, FX4, SRW, 6.7L)

I have also posted (in suspension forum) for some suspension advice on possible 2-3" lift, as some have stated that my goal of running 20" wheels with 35" tire may require a lift to keep rubbing from happening, so I will keep this discussion to simply wheel and tire choice.

Here are my objectives:

-Run a more aggressive stance using 20x12 (20x10 less likely, but also possible) on 35" tires.

-Using wheel flares (pocket or OEM street style) to allow for wider stance, but keep tire protrusion limited to sidewall bulge only. Would like the tire tread to remain flush or slightly tucked for an overall flush appearance.

-Have a summer use tire (doesn't have to be all season, but it can be) that has more aggressive tread without being overly noisy, prone to excessive cupping, or having a bad habit of collecting all the small rocks on the road.

-Keep tire rubbing non-existent. If I have to do a 2-3" lift when I put on the flares, I may do it. I'm still not 100% sold on needing flares, but generally I prefer the look

-Keep wheel cost down, while getting the sort of look I desire. Wheel priority is for quality however, so I would rather pay more or sacrifice a bit on looks for a lighter wheel that is durable chrome finish and balances well / lighter weight. Ease of maintenance / cleaning is a factor also.

So with that, I think a super aggressive mud tire is probably not for me, maybe something like a Toyo Open Country or Nitto Trail Grappler (looks wise: I have no idea if they are good choices or not at this point.) Road noise is probably secondary to the other concerns, but I still would like to avoid unnecessary growling on the road.

I have (based on looks, size, bolt pattern only at this point) narrowed down wheel choices down to a shorter list. I'm not down to the SHORT list yet, but I like things like these (most of these choices would be chrome where available):

- American Force (Independence, Burnout, and many others)
- Fuel (Hostage, Krank, others)
- Hostile (havoc)
- Incubus (Recoil, Nemesis)
- Mayhem (Missile)
- Moto Metal (961/962)
- Pro Comp (6047)
- Ultra (Predator)


I would appreciate whatever suggestions you folks may have, with my listed preferences in mind. Please share your experience, pics, advice, etc.
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  #2  
Old 02-28-2014, 09:39 PM
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This was starting to stray from a suspension thread, so I posted my questions and the answers from Skyd Ram below, because I remain confused by the answer I got and I want to figure out the questions I have around wheel/tire/flare fitment:

As for the wheel fitment answer, I remain confused on one item. From everything I read (yes I read the whole thread now: only took 4 hours!), I am understanding that you recommend a max 9" wheel width to clear a 37" tire on the 4.5" systems.

The limiting factor is tire clearance, not wheel clearance, correct? (everyone mentions tire rub, not wheels hitting)

Wheels aren't going to hit anything themselves but since the width and backspace dictates the tires mounted width, position in the wheel well, as well as the arc that it swings through it plays a critical role in actual tire clearance.

So if the ideal backspacing on a 9" wheel was 5" (0 offset), and you choose to upsize to a 10" width but go 5.5" BS (also 0 offset: equally splitting the difference of the extra 1" width to both sides of the tire) should it not end up in the same position in the end? After all, the tire is wider than the wheel anyway. So the wheel would protrude 1/2" further both inside and out, but the tire poke remains the same?

With the wheel/tire sticking 1/2" further in and out and moving the wheel 1/2" further in the tire shouldn't stick out further than the 9" wheel setup but it will definitely be tucked in more on the inside of the tire. If you are concerned about the cosmetic different of the rim lip difference it should be almost un-noticeable.

According to the rimsntires.com wheel fitment calculator, this appears to be true.

Or am I greatly missing the finer points of wheel and tire fitment?

I know that the 18" wheel is more ideal, but I want to match the stock looks and stick with a 20" wheel. I would love to go with a 10" wheel width, to fill up the fender and add some visible wheel lip (I hate the look of wheels with little to no lip on them)

Since you are concerned with ride quality, use the truck on rough oil patch roads, and may be on a budget the 18's will be a win/win/win other than cosmetics. It just had a customer switch from 20's to 18's and was amazed at the ride quality different both around town as well as on washboard country roads.

I can handle a bit of clearancing of brackets and fender liner I think to make them fit. I think I would like to go bigger than my original target of 35" tires (better suited to the 2.5" kit probably) and see if I can cram in some 36" to 37" rubber.

Can it be done with minimal fuss?

In most cases if you run into rubbing due to a 5" backspace it will be on the front bumper braces which can be clearance. You will also hit the back of the fender liner but that can be pulled back with some simple brackets or even some heavy duty zip ties. Even wider or higher positive offset wheels will cause rubbing on the actual fenders. This is usually compounded by flares and mud flaps as those eat up wheel well space.

So I get the impression that the Nittos with the inherant left pull are a tire to be avoided, and the Toyos are the biggest tires but like to pull right. Do many of the other choices out there pull one way or another? I want to avoid left pull based on the troubles I have read about with steering stabilizer and left pulling tires.

Nitto Trial Grapplers pull left and ride pretty stiff so I would avoid them. My overall favorite tire is the Toyo MT's and although they have a right pull that can be solved with a high pressure stabilizer like the Carli high mount.

Sorry to derail this a bit on tire fitment questions, but I would appreciate the help.

Answers above in bold!
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:50 PM
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Thanks for all the answers, Skyd Ram. I'm hoping that I can be more on topic and find my answers here on the wheel/tire forum. Please ANYONE if you know the answers, post up.

I would like to be as close to 100% sure as I can be before wheel and tire fitment, and it is tricky when changing three variables (wheel/tires, suspension, flares) at once.

A 4.5" kit with 37" tires will get me a lot closer to the top of the 8' garage door and my radio antenna will scrape for sure (time to shorten it I guess), but it will work. Will have to relocate the spare tire racks mounted on the wall, but I was going to do that anyway to install a garage heater someday.

I understand your point about the extra wheel width affecting the mounted width of the tire. That may be a consideration when pushing the envelope on fitment.

I don't quite get what you are saying about the fitment of the 10" wheel on the third point. If you are going from a 20x9" wheel with 0 offset, to 20x10" with 0 offset then it is my understanding that the extra wheel width will be 1/2 wider in the front AND the back. So yes the tire will come in a bit, but it will also go out a bit, correct? The tire is wider than the wheel and it is the tire that will contact other parts. So the extra wheel width is somewhat irrelevant: only the difference in mounted width of the tire (due to the extra wheel width) would matter.

Could a person not simply choose a tire one size slightly narrower to compensate for this?
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Old 03-01-2014, 03:10 AM
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Subscribed - my questions are identical to yours.

I'm putting a 4.5" Carli Performance kit on (will be here Monday) and have the 37" Dick Cepek 12.5x20" - I went with 12.5" to avoid some of the rub issues and the folks that have them on this board really seem to like them. I also have the BW pocket flares inbound for paint as even my stock tires throw up stuff on the sides. I installed mudflaps to avoid any paint damage, but the winter road salt and sand tells me flares are a really good idea.

Thanks for adding the Hostile Havoc to your list, I didn't even know they existed. Now I'm torn between Fuel Hostage and those...I'm thinking Havoc as everyone has the Fuel rims. If I'm tracking this thread, I need 20x9, 8x170, 0 Offset, 5" backspacing.
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Old 03-01-2014, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zixxer View Post
Subscribed - my questions are identical to yours.

I'm putting a 4.5" Carli Performance kit on (will be here Monday) and have the 37" Dick Cepek 12.5x20" - I went with 12.5" to avoid some of the rub issues and the folks that have them on this board really seem to like them. I also have the BW pocket flares inbound for paint as even my stock tires throw up stuff on the sides. I installed mudflaps to avoid any paint damage, but the winter road salt and sand tells me flares are a really good idea.

Thanks for adding the Hostile Havoc to your list, I didn't even know they existed. Now I'm torn between Fuel Hostage and those...I'm thinking Havoc as everyone has the Fuel rims. If I'm tracking this thread, I need 20x9, 8x170, 0 Offset, 5" backspacing.
I'm hoping this thread can help a few of us. I knew there were a couple other people inquiring about slightly larger wheels like me. Sounds like you will get there before me (I haven't ordered anything up yet), so if you don't mind sharing your experience and how yours turns out, that would be fantastic.

PM sent also
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Old 03-01-2014, 05:54 AM
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Well baby steps for me...I've got to either tackle the lift install myself (freezing cold in VA right now) or farm it out to a local shop. I hate the risk having someone else work on my truck so I'm researching a lot of shops...if I find one that has a great reputation, I'll let them do it.

The rims are just a maybe as I'll go with stock rims initially until the funds become available to go aftermarket. I actually like my stock rims a lot, but 8" rims are not the best size for my setup...not really worried, but I don't like take any chances on tires, brakes, etc.
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:20 AM
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Anyone know of a site that gives wheel weight specs?

I am building a database of my wheel search and trying to find a little more information.
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:24 AM
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I've only seen the manufactures sites be accurate...too many eBay listings are copied and never updated and the information on 3rd party sites is suspect.

BTW Hostile Zombie is a pretty nice rim...I'm really thinking it's going to be the Havoc or the Zombie.
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:39 AM
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Yeah both of those are pretty nice. The zombie does it less for me but I can really appreciate its clean look.

I'm not big on many of the wheels with lots of detail, preferring a simpler look and lighter weight if possible. Too many fake bolts and screws on a lot of the 8 lug wheels. Looks cheesy to me.

And I hate Rockstars or anything resembling them. Everyone has a set.
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:46 AM
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That's what I like about the Zombie...there's NO bolts, lip is clean, etc. and it looks stronger with easier to clean slots. Just something about it.
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