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post #1 of 23 Old 12-18-2013, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Feels like dragging brake

I have had issues, like a lot, with the calipers dragging on my brakes. The RR is the main issue right now. Was so bad the first time I got a new caliper bracket, slide bolts, and pads. I know my rotor is warped but it's not terrible. Then I was smelling burning brake. Pulled/lubed slide pins on both sides rear, and they were still good.
I did notice that when I went to compress the pistons back down, that on the left rear, they went in easily, with not much effort. On the right rear, they were very hard to compress, even with a C clamp.
To me, that meant I had a fluid flow issue, or a caliper issue. So I replaced the flex hose from the hard line to the caliper, and no effect.
Sometimes, when rolling slowly, I can feel the pulsing of the warped rotor against the pads and feel it dragging, slowing me down. And other times it's smooth and there is no dragging what so ever.

So since I replaced the hose, lubed, the pins, and have new fluid (again), what else do you think? Pull the ends on the hard line and blow it out?
Could the LR be dragging and just enough for me to feel? The pads didn't show that the LR was dragging.



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post #2 of 23 Old 12-21-2013, 07:46 AM
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Sounds like the pistons in the caliper are the issue. I would take a look at the piston seals as well as the bore. Brake fluid breaks down and looses it's lubrication qualities from pressure and heat. Moisture gets into system and causes damage to the bores.
Take the caliper apart and hone out the bores and put all new seals and rubbers in. This should take care of it as long as you don't have pitting from rust in the cylinder bores.

Brake fluid should be changed every 4 years by doing a complete all wheel fluid bleed.
Pedal will become much firmer with new fluid as well and everything stays lubricated. Take a good look at old brake fluid it gets a green milky color to it and it destroys calipers and the master cylinder too.

Good luck with it.


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post #3 of 23 Old 12-21-2013, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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So what if I don't have a hone or any of that? Is it that hard?



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post #4 of 23 Old 12-21-2013, 09:19 AM
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A lot of people have had the exact same issue as you. Myself included. More than likely its your MC spool valve not letting the pressure bleed off. It sounds weird and not normal since you'd think the back is T'd and both calipers would seize, but thats not the case. I fought mine for 2 yrs and replaced 6 calipers n 6 rotors.

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post #5 of 23 Old 12-21-2013, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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I know this is a very common thing but I never heard what the deep root cause was.
So in that T on the rear axle, there a valve for both calipers?



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post #6 of 23 Old 12-21-2013, 10:01 AM
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Nope. No check in the Tee. Its the spool in the MC.

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post #7 of 23 Old 12-21-2013, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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I'm dumb; what's a spool and I guess master cylinder?



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post #8 of 23 Old 12-21-2013, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
I'm dumb; what's a spool and I guess master cylinder?
MC, yep master cylinder.

There's a shaft that's machined with grooves in it that slides inside the body of the MC. Think of it as a hydraulic cylinder thats extended and you pushing the rod back inside. The rod being the spool.

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post #9 of 23 Old 12-21-2013, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Basically the piston in the MC then.
How do I check it? I understand the idea behind brakes but nothing in the MC.
What if it happens more when cold? Still the spool?

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post #10 of 23 Old 12-21-2013, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
Basically the piston in the MC then.
How do I check it? I understand the idea behind brakes but nothing in the MC.
What if it happens more when cold? Still the spool?

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You can test it, but its a royal PITA. You still have to remove it. Then hook up fittings and gauges to the ports. Put it in a vise and manually operate it dozens of times. :thumbdown: Or, swap it out with a new one.

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