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  #1  
Old 09-30-2013, 12:57 PM
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Problem with hard braking

I have a 1997 f-250 7.3l 4x4 automatic. Tire size is 285/75r/16 i believe, nothing very big. has a 3 inch leveling by adding a couple leafs. My problem is braking. If i am using light normal braking it works fine. But if i have to apply hard brakes like when someone in front of me stops suddenly the brakes are terrible. I am pretty sure the rear tires are locking up and that is partly why its so bad. Could this be from having brake dust in the drum? Is this normal with these truck? Thanks for any advice
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:06 PM
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I have a '97 F350 auto. Is your pedal "squishy"? I've been having issues with the pedal not being good & hard
Your truck should have rear anti lock brakes. Make sure the wires that are on top of the rear differential are plugged in....(your speedo usually won't work if the are unplugged, but u never know) Also the rear anti lock brake controller (don't know correct name) is on the inside of the frame rail behind the drivers front tire. There should be a bleeder screw on it to remove any trapped air. (mines so rusted you can barely see a bleeder screw) Maybe there is air trapped there, causing an odd pedal and poor braking
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  #3  
Old 11-13-2013, 06:29 AM
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Mirror image truck with the same problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by powerstroke814 View Post
I have a 1997 f-250 7.3l 4x4 automatic. Tire size is 285/75r/16 i believe, nothing very big. has a 3 inch leveling by adding a couple leafs. My problem is braking. If i am using light normal braking it works fine. But if i have to apply hard brakes like when someone in front of me stops suddenly the brakes are terrible. I am pretty sure the rear tires are locking up and that is partly why its so bad. Could this be from having brake dust in the drum? Is this normal with these truck? Thanks for any advice

I have virtually the same set-up on my 97 F250 7.3 4x4, and I am having the same issue. If I drive like an OL man and allow plenty of time to stop the brakes feel ok. However if I have to jam on the brakes the peddles is HARD, and my left rear brake locks up. I have adjusted the rears, bled the brakes, and I bled the ABS Hydraulic assembly that sputnik801 spoke about..... Nothing is working yet. I am starting to think I need to replace the rear anti lock brake controller...?!?!? I'm going to see if you can test the brake controller before I go throw the ca$h at it....
Carquest has the reman part check out the link:

CARQUEST - Product Information:Cardone Reman Computers
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Old 11-16-2013, 04:37 PM
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When was the last time all of you bled the entire brake system with fresh fluid??
Hydraulic fluid attracts moisture and moisture has a percentage of oxygen (h2o)

Take a look at your brake fluid; how black/green does it look.

Bottom line: your fluid is good for 5-7 years and needs replacing. Do a gravity bleed through all wheels after using a suction gun to remove what's in master cylinder. Top it off with new fluid and get rid of the old.

Pedal will become much firmer. Reason the rears are worse is because of the length of the lines. More moisture to compress in the longer run.
I did my truck at 5 years and it was noticeable.
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:02 PM
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What is the procedure step by step for bleeding it all? I am just nervous about the rabs unit. Just dont want to mess anything up. I know how to do a regular brake bleed; is this the same?
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Old 11-16-2013, 08:08 PM
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You can do it that way too. I used my Lincoln suction gun to pull it out of the master cylinder. A turkey baster works too or if you have a vacuum hand pump that will do too.
Once you get majority out of master cylinder , refill it with Dot4 fluid.

Start bleeding the furthest wheel ( pass rear )
Crack open bleeder and put a hose on down to a bottle or cup etc.
If you have a hand vacuum pump use it. If not gravity will work just real slow. You do want to press the brake pedal occasionally to stir up fluid in the calipers and wheel cylinders. Keep the master cylinder full and once clear fluid comes out move to next wheel.
Next wheel is: drivers rear. Do same as above.
Next wheel is: pass front
Last is: driver front

Don't forget to tap on brake pedal to give a surge to did in getting the lower fluid out of calipers.
Remember to keep level up in master cylinder.

I did my wife's Tahoe a while back and she noticed the difference immediately, and she doesn't notice or pick up on anything!!
Brake fluid breaks down and the difference is huge. Pedal is firm as day truck was new once it's replaced.
Best $20.00 you can spend, it also saves the calipers from rusting and hanging up. Most every caliper failure is from fluid never being changed and the moisture pits the bore and wipes them out.
Post up your end result. You will notice no more nose down on braking.
Good Luck if I missed anything let me know.
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  #7  
Old 01-30-2014, 06:51 AM
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Thanks mhatlen. I got a vacume pump and bled the entire sytem. In doing this I noticed my right rear wheel cylinder nipple was rusty. I replaced the wheel cylinder and the the left rear stopped locking up. I still have the hard brake peddle issue. I am starting to think its the brake booster.

I have more serious issue now, My truck wont start when its below 65 degress unless its plugged in. I had replaced the glow plug relay about 6 months ago. So i had been assuming its okay. Last night I checked the battery voltage, both batteries were at 12.4 volts, and 14.6 with the truck running. I cleaned all of the battery connections.... still the same thing. So tonight its onto testing the GPR and GP harnesses.
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  #8  
Old 05-15-2014, 07:49 AM
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Quick follow up to the hard brake issues. It seems that my Vacuum pump may be the culprit. check out this post including the procedures.
94-97 PSD Vacuum Pump Replacement
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