Fill it up again Dummy
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Central Valley, Sierra Mountains, California
Thanked 172 Times in 160 Posts
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You can do it that way too. I used my Lincoln suction gun to pull it out of the master cylinder. A turkey baster works too or if you have a vacuum hand pump that will do too.
Once you get majority out of master cylinder , refill it with Dot4 fluid.
Start bleeding the furthest wheel ( pass rear )
Crack open bleeder and put a hose on down to a bottle or cup etc.
If you have a hand vacuum pump use it. If not gravity will work just real slow. You do want to press the brake pedal occasionally to stir up fluid in the calipers and wheel cylinders. Keep the master cylinder full and once clear fluid comes out move to next wheel.
Next wheel is: drivers rear. Do same as above.
Next wheel is: pass front
Last is: driver front
Don't forget to tap on brake pedal to give a surge to did in getting the lower fluid out of calipers.
Remember to keep level up in master cylinder.
I did my wife's Tahoe a while back and she noticed the difference immediately, and she doesn't notice or pick up on anything!!
Brake fluid breaks down and the difference is huge. Pedal is firm as day truck was new once it's replaced.
Best $20.00 you can spend, it also saves the calipers from rusting and hanging up. Most every caliper failure is from fluid never being changed and the moisture pits the bore and wipes them out.
Post up your end result. You will notice no more nose down on braking.
Good Luck if I missed anything let me know.
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2006 F250 LARIAT CCSB 4X4
ARP Studs, O-Ringed Heads
X4 PHP 65 HP Custom Tow Tune
CAT EC-1 Coolant, IPR Coolant filter
Fass-125 to a Adjustable Pressure Reg.
Turbo-back SS 4" pipe, Corsa Muffler -7" Tip
6.4 starter, DC Power 270 w/ AGM regulator
Die Hard Platinum AGM all 2/0 Cables
Fabtech Radius Arms
7" lift w: Icon Progressive Coil Springs
2008 up Carli/Deaver rear springs
2000 Watts of McIntosh Bliss
All riding on some Fatty-Daddy 38/15.50/18 Toyo's